Hi there. Since spring is almost here, I dug out my Poulan P3314 that I bought late last fall that I had not really gotten a chance to play with. I bought it not running. I did have it running briefly, but did put it away for the winter. I had bought the carburetor adjusting tool over the winter. So today, I brought it out and attampted to get it running. I did get it running and it sounded good and strong. The part where I am having problems is with the idle. I had it sitting at idle, however, it did so at a high speed and could not get it to idle without the chain spinning at a decent speed. I could not get it to sit and idle with the chain not spinning. I had played with the low speed and idle adjustments only, I did not touch the high speed. I had it running, then it stopped, then backed teh screws out to where they were and started again a few times with no luck. I did soem reading and adjusted it without any luck. As well to note, even at a higher speed idle, when I did try the chain brake, the engine died out immediately. Is this a Poulan thing, or is there also something else wrong there that I also must look at? If anyone could please shed some light on this, it would be greatly appreciated. As well, is there a particular number of turns out that the idle adjustmant screw shoud be, such as the high and low speed needles for a starting point? I cannot say for sure how many turns out the high speed screw is out as I did not touch it, but the low speed was out 2 1/2 turns as was when I bought it. Thank you for any and all help in advance. I will also be glad to answer any questions regarding this if you may have.
Poulan P3314 Tuning Help Please
- Thread starter lil171
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,131
- Reaction score
- 24,964
Yes, the model has had many incarnations.
A quick google search shows a type 1 and type 2 strato saw .
They both use the same carbs .
Have you adjusted the T idle adjustment for a lower rpm ?
They both use the same carbs .
Have you adjusted the T idle adjustment for a lower rpm ?
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,131
- Reaction score
- 24,964
Really?
I tried parting out the pig on E-Bay...
And also the new 3314....
Not worth it, the carb was usually the problem...
I tried parting out the pig on E-Bay...
And also the new 3314....
Not worth it, the carb was usually the problem...
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
- 21,131
- Reaction score
- 24,964
Poulanvarna crap is just that anymore....
Crap......
Crap......
Yes, I tried adjusting the throttle idle adjustment, I believe. That is, if you are talking about the thrird screw. They are marked H, L, and T, I believe. H and L are adjusted using the special screwdriver (21 spined) and teh T is adjusted using a phillips. That one did not appear to do much while adjusting the saw. As well, it was dry during winter storage and new 40:1 fuel was mixed to do this today, premium fuel, 0 ethanol. I will take a look again. If the carburetors are a problem, I will possibly look at a cheap chinese repalcement, unless someone here happens to have a cheap one for sale.. Or would it be worth taking apart and buying a rebuild kit? Thanks again for the help. As in teh video link, my chain does not stop at idle as teh one in the video. If it did, I would be happy!
Did you look to see if the tip of the T idle adjust screw was moving the throttle lever on the carb ?
OP said, "I had it sitting at idle, however, it did so at a high speed and could not get it to idle without the chain spinning at a decent speed. I could not get it to sit and idle with the chain not spinning."
--------------------------
Could be that the clutch is not releasing the drive shaft sprocket even at an idle speed where it should be. If you can get it back to that same running position, then adjust the idle down and see what happens. Don't adjust the other two carb setscrews. And, try running it without the bar and chain on board so that you can see what is happening.
--------------------------
Could be that the clutch is not releasing the drive shaft sprocket even at an idle speed where it should be. If you can get it back to that same running position, then adjust the idle down and see what happens. Don't adjust the other two carb setscrews. And, try running it without the bar and chain on board so that you can see what is happening.
BenGilstrap
New Member
I know modern Poulan saws are essentially disposable, but, assuming one were so inclined, would it be possible to equip one with a tillotson carb? I’ve retrofitted a couple modern Poulan 33cc with old-style mufflers and air-filters for the heck of it and had good results.
My thinking is that the basic Poulan 33cc design has been around for 50 years; it’s the cheap components that make the modern saws disposable.
My thinking is that the basic Poulan 33cc design has been around for 50 years; it’s the cheap components that make the modern saws disposable.
Ok. Thanks. I will take the cover off tomorrow and see if teh screw is moving the throttle lever.
This may be a silly question regarding the clutch not releasing, but what exactly am I looking for, as I am new to all this chainsaw stuff. I am also assuming running a chainsaw without bar and chain is ok to do?
Thank you.
This may be a silly question regarding the clutch not releasing, but what exactly am I looking for, as I am new to all this chainsaw stuff. I am also assuming running a chainsaw without bar and chain is ok to do?
Thank you.
They designed nothing like the old saws.
Most of the time failure is a results of abuse and using them outside of they were intended to be used, light duty.
Do a YouTube search on how a centrifugal clutch works.
I did just run outside quickly and took the cover and air filter box off to see the idle screw. It does indeed move the arm, however, not a lot of movement though. I also just watched a couple of videos on the tlutch and I now know how it should look and work, so that will be a big help tomorrow. Thank you.
Well, another update. Thanks to your help, I took it apart today as planned. Upon removing the clutch cover, the spring jumped out at me.... One end of teh spring appears to be broken. So off to teh city in a couple of weeks to pick one up. If I can find time this week, I will go in, however, if not it will have to wait till I get back from my holiday. The broken end of teh spring is on teh right side. I am $20 or $25 into the saw, so another $20 for the clutch is not that bad I suppose. Otherwise, it is a nice little saw. The only other thing left to fix will be to find out why the bar oil keeps going.....
Attachments
Bobby Kirbos
Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs
Yup, the busted spring would explain it.
As for the non-stop oiler - the pump is driven off of the crank shaft, so as long as the saw is running, it's pumping oil.
If you have leaking bar oil the oil tank vent line can let oil out if not tucked in the upper left corner .
Well, I had time today to stop at the small engine shop. They had the clutch there and for under $20, they gave me the part, and were nice enough to change it as well for me included in teh purchase! So, I brought it home and reassembled it. I then went out and gave it a couple of pulls and it fired up. Due to me playing with both the low speed and idle needles, it took a few minutes to get it sorted out and running well. The idle now works good with the chain in a stationary state, then I tried the chain brake while running it. Chain stopped, engine stayed running. I am now a happy camper. I will probably have to play with the settings again when it warms up and I can cut something, but for now all is well. Also to note, after a little time idling, when I hit the throttle, I can see a spray of oil coming off the tip of the bar, so I do know it gets oil. I will check the other things to look at later this week. So, thanks to all for the help in getting my saw running again. I just find it funny a little spring can cause all this.
