McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hi

I have a McCulloch 7-10 on my wall that I was thinking of restoring….I would like to have it fully operational but conscious that there would be next to no parts support – is there any interchangeability with newer models with regards to bearings / crank seals / piston rings etc?

Basically can this saw be restored, or am I going to have to powder coat it and reassemble with new consumable items and run it as it is?

I’ve been restoring a Stihl 031av so I’ve had the frustration of not being able to source all the parts I want at reasonable prices and the McCulloch being older would be considerably worse.

Regards

Adam

Hey there cool exciting project..
Parts are around no problem you're in the right place. Pull her apart don't be scared take photos ask any and all the questions you like the lads here will sort you out.

Start simple its same as any other engine.
Spark? Compression? Put a spoon full of gas down its gob it may well fire.
Does the tank leak fuel. probably needs a carb kit at least. It may not need much at all.
 
Jethro, are you sourcing parts through ebay as I wasn't seeing much? Is the saw just known as a 710 or 7-10 - does this saw have multiple iterations or will all 710 parts fit a 710?

I just received a parts diagram for the saw from a fellow member which will help a lot.

Now just need to decide whether to sandblast it and powder coat it up or leave it with its weathered patina. I do like the idea of having an old beat up looking saw that runs sweet....I just restored an 031av and had to buy another one to actually use because I dont want to get the restored one dirty.
 
the 7-10 I have has no chain brake mechanism, is it like the Stihl 031av that had the brake added in later iterations?
 
Jethro, are you sourcing parts through ebay as I wasn't seeing much? Is the saw just known as a 710 or 7-10 - does this saw have multiple iterations or will all 710 parts fit a 710?

I just received a parts diagram for the saw from a fellow member which will help a lot.

Now just need to decide whether to sandblast it and powder coat it up or leave it with its weathered patina. I do like the idea of having an old beat up looking saw that runs sweet....I just restored an 031av and had to buy another one to actually use because I dont want to get the restored one dirty.
be very gentle if using sand blaster , bead blaster is better
Peter
 
I am having an issue with my oiler at the moment.

Brian

I have seen some on eBay for $25-$30. Only thing is every time my dad replaces one they don’t seem to last long as far as the automatic part. Last one he bought, the auto worked for a while then stopped but the manual button worked. Then it got hard and couldn’t push. Seems they clog up or something?
 
I only have a table top blasting unit getting fed like 12cfm of air so it's not powerful enough to warp anything and actually etches it up nicely allbeit slowly....I did the entire 031av which came up quite well....although it was quite the labour of love as stihl factory powder coat is a prick to get off especially with a small nozzle. But the project was intended to learn how to powder coat and now I am developing an interest with the old metal casing saws - luckily for my wife they seem to be collectable as it's not cheap here in Australia to pick up Stihl's etc of the 70's vintage.
 
I only have a table top blasting unit getting fed like 12cfm of air so it's not powerful enough to warp anything and actually etches it up nicely allbeit slowly....I did the entire 031av which came up quite well....although it was quite the labour of love as stihl factory powder coat is a prick to get off especially with a small nozzle. But the project was intended to learn how to powder coat and now I am developing an interest with the old metal casing saws - luckily for my wife they seem to be collectable as it's not cheap here in Australia to pick up Stihl's etc of the 70's vintage.
cool , glad you have done it before , where are you in aust , im in maryborough qld
Peter
 
Does anyone know where I can get that rubber grommet on the 610 that fits into the air box and the fuel line runs through the middle of it? Mine is shot. I looked on eBay and all. Don’t see one.

C14A06F3-DE1D-4490-A4F6-5D7825F10081.jpeg
 
Hi

I have a McCulloch 7-10 on my wall that I was thinking of restoring….I would like to have it fully operational but conscious that there would be next to no parts support – is there any interchangeability with newer models with regards to bearings / crank seals / piston rings etc?

Basically can this saw be restored, or am I going to have to powder coat it and reassemble with new consumable items and run it as it is?

I’ve been restoring a Stihl 031av so I’ve had the frustration of not being able to source all the parts I want at reasonable prices and the McCulloch being older would be considerably worse.

Regards

Adam

Many of the parts on a 7-10A interchange with other 10 series saws so most parts won't be an issue.

Aftermarket seals are available

F/W seal: MAC PN's 65746 and 61618. National / Timken 471551

PTO seal: MAC PN's 110260. or 65747 SKF 6119 or National / Timken 253747

PTO side bearing is a common BH-108, full compliment

Not sure about the FW side bearing.

A good bunch of IPL's for MAC saws here so you can be sure you have the right version for your saw.

https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/McCulloch-Parts-Service-Repair-Manuals/Gas_Powered_Chain_Saws/

Repair manual for 10 series saws here.

https://app.box.com/s/h94pyagrb0ee7ufp4rzn
 
I am having an issue with my oiler at the moment.

Brian
If I remember correctly you replaced that oiler not too long ago,maybe last fall or early winter?I've found that with the impulse oilers that the standard B&C oil most people use is too heavy.If you cut the oil at a ratio of 1 pint of either kerosene or diesel fuel per gallon B&C oil you'll see yuou oiler problems go away.In summer you can cut the ratio back to 1/2 pint per gal.
Ed
 
If I remember correctly you replaced that oiler not too long ago,maybe last fall or early winter?I've found that with the impulse oilers that the standard B&C oil most people use is too heavy.If you cut the oil at a ratio of 1 pint of either kerosene or diesel fuel per gallon B&C oil you'll see yuou oiler problems go away.In summer you can cut the ratio back to 1/2 pint per gal.
Ed

Never thought of that. I will give it a shot. Hell won’t hurt to try that’s for sure.
 
Jethro, are you sourcing parts through ebay as I wasn't seeing much? Is the saw just known as a 710 or 7-10 - does this saw have multiple iterations or will all 710 parts fit a 710?

I just received a parts diagram for the saw from a fellow member which will help a lot.

Now just need to decide whether to sandblast it and powder coat it up or leave it with its weathered patina. I do like the idea of having an old beat up looking saw that runs sweet....I just restored an 031av and had to buy another one to actually use because I dont want to get the restored one dirty.

Like fossil said it's a 10 series so a whole bunch of stuff is shared with the other 10 series saws. Ebay is a pretty good source for parts maybe not the cheapest place but still reasonable when you think of parts for a modern saw at the dealer.

Let us know where your at with it. And put up some photos
 
I took my neighbors Cub Cadet to the small engine shop. Mentioned to the owner that I collected old chain saws, mostly Homelites. He asked if I was interested in an old Mac. Of course. He said they were going to hang it on the wall, but it only made it to the top of the filing cabinet. It looks pretty much like my Mac 15, but smaller. I couldn't see any numbers. He said make an offer. It's complete and clean, turns over. My offer is $15-$20. Any wild guess what models look like a Mac15, so I can look them up and see if I can match this thing to a model.
 
I took my neighbors Cub Cadet to the small engine shop. Mentioned to the owner that I collected old chain saws, mostly Homelites. He asked if I was interested in an old Mac. Of course. He said they were going to hang it on the wall, but it only made it to the top of the filing cabinet. It looks pretty much like my Mac 15, but smaller. I couldn't see any numbers. He said make an offer. It's complete and clean, turns over. My offer is $15-$20. Any wild guess what models look like a Mac15, so I can look them up and see if I can match this thing to a model.

have a look in the attached file
 

Attachments

  • Publication Product guide 1972.pdf
    1.5 MB · Views: 10
Wow, Tim, that's cool. It looks like my Mac 15. Seemed lighter, maybe it has a shorter bar. I didn't see anything else that looked like it. I think I'll take my 15 with me and compare them side by side.
 
I used to use the high dollar oil, but it's a little too thick so I get the cheap stuff or craftsman brand and that works in my old macs.
I post this on different threads a couple times a year. When I started working for my Dad in 1972, I had never heard of "Bar Oil". We used the cheapest 10W30 we could get at Walmart. When Dad's company got big enough that we started to get direct advertising from the manufacturers, I remember 2 different "Bar Oil" studies. One company said their oil was thicker, and better, because it stuck to the bar and carried the oil around the bar better. The other company said their oil was thinner and was better because it flew off the end of the bar, and carried heat off the bar better. They both had a pile of scientific research that proved their oil was best. We kept using 10W30 because it was way cheaper. We never had an oil related bar failure. Had guys drop climbing saws out of trees and bend bars in half. I'm 63 now and go through about 5 gallons of mix a month, playing with old saws, milling, and firewood. If I see a super sale on Bar oil I'll buy a couple gallons, otherwise it's still 10W30. Most of my old saws are 90+cc Homelites and a few 85-100 CC Macs. My favorite Mac is my 550.
 
Back
Top