McCulloch Chain Saws

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Sorry Jethro, I posted the below before I saw you added heaps to your post - appreciate you taking the time to give me some of that insight.

Appreciate your reply - Just checking - the decompression valve is pulled out to release compression (I'm going feel stupid if I got this wrong), there wasn't a lot of travel between in and out so hopefully its fully sealing....I did the compression test with wide open throttle to get the 77psi. I have another 031av to finish off (I wanted at least one 031av to actually cut with) and then i'll strip 7-10.

I'd definately just re-ring it if the cylinder is even half decent as I just want it to run and then go on the wall - the 7-10 has a bit of rust so hopefully the internals are okay.... when you say there are heaps of parts on ebay - are you referring to NOS in the USA or is there aftermarket rings / bearings etc available as when I type McCulloch 7-10 I dont seem to get a lot in Australia anyways...any idea what carby I would have (did the Aussies / NZ's get a certain model)?

Yeah I just leave Ebay on USA for saw parts. It's hard to see from that angle but it looks like you may have an sdc 44 in there. When you get this going you will keep running it from time to time guaranteed lol the sound alone is addictive
 
2nd: The saw is leaking air out of the oiler hole. What do I need to do to solve this? There is a oiler rebuild kit on eBay. Or is it something else?IMG_20190523_143643.jpg
 
I'd just use a heli-coil for the bracket threads.

There are only so many ways air can get into the oil tank (and back out). Here's a rundown on the oil pumps and what to inspect. If air is getting into the oil tank from the crankcase it's probably getting through the check valve setup at the pulse passage. Drain the oil, pull the tank cover, test again, then tear into it. Should find your problem fairly quickly.
 

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  • 10 Series Oil Pump(s).pdf
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I'd just use a heli-coil for the bracket threads.

There are only so many ways air can get into the oil tank (and back out). Here's a rundown on the oil pumps and what to inspect. If air is getting into the oil tank from the crankcase it's probably getting through the check valve setup at the pulse passage. Drain the oil, pull the tank cover, test again, then tear into it. Should find your problem fairly quickly.


Thanks. I ended up heading to the hardware store for a longer bolt. Seems to be working without running into the crank. I'll keep looking at the oil tank. Appreciate it.
 
Can anyone tell me whether the 7-10A clutch is threaded on or just held on by the retaining nut?

I have the nut off and the 10-10 manual seems to think I can soft hammer the underside of the clutch hub and it will all come off but I'm not having much success....and I'm not to keen to go too hard on it otherwise I might do damage.
 
Perfect...I had an old auto puller that never fit anything that was perfect for this....

If the clutch side has a counter clockwise nut to tighten would it logically mean the same for the flywheel side as it's proving difficult to remove the nut? In my ignorance I may have damaged the spark plug thread using a piston stop to try and remove it.

Also, is McCulloch an American brand....are all the threads imperial?
 
Normal righty tighty threads on the flywheel.
All threads are sae except the spark plug.
 
Thanks to Fossil for finding these for me. Not only that, but he cleaned them up, packed them up, and brought them across the border to mail them and save a lot on shipping expenses.

The Super 250 is the Canadian made yellow top version, and the Mini Mac is the 25, mid series model with the brake (flag handle). Both of these were missing from my collection and both are very nice examples of saws that did some work and were retired before they were slap wore out.

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Mark
 
Any tips for getting off the flywheel nut? I've put the butane torch on it for a while to no avail and im nervous about breaking the flywheel fins. Is it normal for it to be so tough to remove on an old saw?
 
Yes they can be buggers....i use an impact driver with a socket adapter on it. Works great. Dewalt brand, used for driving fasteners. Be sure to go thr right direction though or you could break the threads off. Usually you wouldnt have to secure it, the action of the impact is.usually enough to loosen it up.
 
I use a 3/8 impact gun. Cant speaknfir a manual way to remove. I would not pry on the fins however.
I've used a length of starter rope in the plug hole to act as a piston stop to remove clutches so that might work.
 
Thanks guys.....turns out the old rope in the plug hole was sufficient after putting a bit of heat on it....the rest of the dismantling should be relatively easy

Playing with these old saws is a lot more enjoyable after they are stripped and cleaned thats for sure
 
Thanks guys.....turns out the old rope in the plug hole was sufficient after putting a bit of heat on it....the rest of the dismantling should be relatively easy

Playing with these old saws is a lot more enjoyable after they are stripped and cleaned thats for sure

How's that cylinder?

Finally got me a big bar on the 800.
Hope she can pull it with full comp cos thats what came with it. It is a mac bar too just paint gone20190525_142959.jpg
 
I'm really happy with the cylinder all things considered....I've got it in my ultrasonic cleaner now to clean off 50+ years of crud...a 7-10A is a 60's saw yeah? I'll snap a pic later to get a more experienced opinion but at the end of the day it doesn't really matter because the likelihood of getting another good cylinder is minimal.

It's surprising how many screws / bolts get hidden underneath filth....the head wouldn't come off and it took a few minutes with a screw driver scraping **** off to find that last hidden bolt.

The bearings / seals seem decent as well not that im an expert at telling if an oil seal is junk.
 
Anyone know if a muffler off a more modern (read more readily available to buy) McCulloch chainsaw would fit a 7-10A? The one I have is totally cactus, held together with wire....
 

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