McCulloch Chain Saws

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That's good news 32 seems massive.

Jerry there usually is a 70cc muffler duct or two on Ebay. That saw is like 1970 odd so pretty much 50 years.

Get some pics up of the cylinder how bad is she? I wouldn't panic about a few scores

Are you referring to a 7-10 specific muffler or are there other mcculloch 70cc's that would marry up too?

Not sure if you can see much from these pics but no major gouges or anything...

IMG_0389.JPG IMG_0390.JPG IMG_0391.JPG
 
Appreciate everyone's patience with all my novice questions....

Will those generic electronic ignition chips work on these saws? With the 031av I had to get an electronic flywheel and change the timing on my other 031av....

Also, safe to say i need to replace the oil / vacuum bearing seals if I can pull the bearing off the crank by hand? Assuming it wouldnt be sealing that well? I see that the bearings have locater pin / ring groove but I doubt that matters.
 
Even the most seasoned mcculloch owners need help now and again, dont sweat that. We all have asked for help and on that very model.
The ignition modules work very well for me. Ive used them on sp81, cp125, 55, homelites and stihls alike. Just be sure you get the wires right. If it wont start up after its wired up then you may have to swap the wires on it.
 
I'm really happy with the cylinder all things considered....I've got it in my ultrasonic cleaner now to clean off 50+ years of crud...a 7-10A is a 60's saw yeah? I'll snap a pic later to get a more experienced opinion but at the end of the day it doesn't really matter because the likelihood of getting another good cylinder is minimal.

It's surprising how many screws / bolts get hidden underneath filth....the head wouldn't come off and it took a few minutes with a screw driver scraping **** off to find that last hidden bolt.

The bearings / seals seem decent as well not that im an expert at telling if an oil seal is junk.


7-10A produced 1970-1975
 
Guess I like the 70's saws then....

Are the choke and oil "pull levers" a press fit? How does one remove them - just pull on them real hard?

Assuming I just need to knock out the dowel pin in the handle to remove the trigger mech?

The throttle cable type mech between the handle and the air box housing is restricted somehow - has some kind of rubber square keeping it in place (hard to tell underneath all the crud and muck)....do I just pull that out to release the throttle mech ?
 
There should be a small roll pin acting as a 'stop' for the manual oiler and choke knobs that will need punched out to remove the knobs/rods. The knobs should be removable from the rods with care, though they will break if glued in place. I believe they are typically a press fit.

Keep cleaning. You'll be amazed at what you discover! LOL
 
Are you referring to a 7-10 specific muffler or are there other mcculloch 70cc's that would marry up too?

Not sure if you can see much from these pics but no major gouges or anything...

View attachment 737945 View attachment 737946 View attachment 737947

That cylinder will be fine whoo yeah.

Muffler wise just any 70cc muffler will work but there's a few varieties of cover on them any will fit though but for the purest man he may not want a pm700 style is all really. I did a little hunting and...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MCCULLOCH-10-10-555-570-MUFFLER-KIT-BOX685-/231830256847

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-McCULL...122388&hash=item5b5154319c:g:HJMAAOSwXitcLV9t

https://www.ebay.com/itm/genuine-Mc...544154&hash=item231255c2e9:g:dYUAAOxy3HJTIb3q

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Old-St...606737?hash=item280f9c8111:g:EPcAAOSwYIhWlbpV

https://www.ebay.com/itm/McCulloch-...824521?hash=item5ad04ded09:g:C54AAOxyOMdS7XPt
 
Depending on the vintage of the saw and if earlier ones used different cylinders, that may not be the correct piston. LOL

You suggested the possibility that the early 7-10's may just be left-hand start 6-10A's..., which used this piston.

https://www.ebay.com/i/183735895227?chn=ps

That's a very good point poge and I hope we can get to the bottom of that 1 day
 
FWIW, I messaged the seller of that 85240 to see if he could shed light on any porting differences between cylinders for that piston and for the windowed 85239 pistons. Maybe he knows?

We need cylinders to compare.

Good job yeah my three cylinders are on saws at the moment but will be tearing down the later 7-10 after I finish up my wood gathering. Put the older 7-10 carb on the 800 now untle I rebuild the zama so only one 7-10 to play with.

Jerry get some pics up of the piston you have? You have came to us just the right time as there has been a members 7-10 on here with still un resolved issues and yours may shed some light
 
Jethro you snuck another edit to your post in again lol...

I had a look at my piston and didn't see any markings unless it's under the carbon on top? Will a photo of my piston help clear anything up? Assuming the rings are the same?

Thanks for the links guys, I had been messaging a few of these sellers last night to see if I can get 90% of the stuff I need from one place as the international shipping is a killer otherwise....

I told my wife that this saw would cost me about $200 to fix lol (including like $100 of powder coat powder after shipping)....looks like it may cost a little more....luckily I got the saw for free.,,,I could reuse most of the parts if I really want given this saw wont see any real work but not much of a restoration if its just pretty on the outside.

The best thing about this saw is that the metal prep work should be easy - the powder coating on the Stihl 031av was a nightmare to get off completely.
 
Jethro you snuck another edit to your post in again lol...

I had a look at my piston and didn't see any markings unless it's under the carbon on top? Will a photo of my piston help clear anything up? Assuming the rings are the same?

Thanks for the links guys, I had been messaging a few of these sellers last night to see if I can get 90% of the stuff I need from one place as the international shipping is a killer otherwise....

I told my wife that this saw would cost me about $200 to fix lol (including like $100 of powder coat powder after shipping)....looks like it may cost a little more....luckily I got the saw for free.,,,I could reuse most of the parts if I really want given this saw wont see any real work but not much of a restoration if its just pretty on the outside.

The best thing about this saw is that the metal prep work should be easy - the powder coating on the Stihl 031av was a nightmare to get off completely.

Yes the reply button on the fone is way too close lol

Yeah pic be fine we just want to see the skirt type on the piston.

So is kevin's 7-10 with the dsp on off switch setup older? Or was it just a different option?
 
My switches are the same but they are black.

Mate, if I can be of any use here then happy to help as I am taking a lot more than giving thats for sure

IMG_0393.JPG IMG_0394.JPG IMG_0396.JPG IMG_0395.JPG
 
Yes the reply button on the fone is way too close lol

Yeah pic be fine we just want to see the skirt type on the piston.

So is kevin's 7-10 with the dsp on off switch setup older? Or was it just a different option?
I was told by Mark that the kill switch activated DSP was the first generation 7-10. So yes, older.
 
On a side note, how do the McCulloch naming conventions work? I would have assumed the 10-10 is a bigger saw than the 7-10 but its only 54cc odd?
 
I was told by Mark that the kill switch activated DSP was the first generation 7-10. So yes, older.

I thought so I wonder how long they made that version for.

On a side note, how do the McCulloch naming conventions work? I would have assumed the 10-10 is a bigger saw than the 7-10 but its only 54cc odd?

The 10 series started in 66 I think or 67 with the 1-10 and I believe the 10 was for 10 pounds but maybe wrong this is off my head it was coined the worlds 1st lightweight chainsaw umm then yeah 2-10 3-10 4-10. 5-10 is 70cc not sure why they called them 10-10 they were certainly into marketing so perhaps the 10-10 has something to do with it. 7-10 was the 1st left hand start rigid 70cc saw not sure if the cp70L was before or after and not sure when the sp70 took over.

There's also the antivibe 10 series too which started with the cp saws "cushioned power) not sure exactly the year Mark will know but around 1969/70 and not sure if the cp55 was before the cp70 then was the 82cc saws. So basically there's two families and left hand pull after 1970 odd.

The 10-10S was made till 98 and basically the same saw design from 66 so an incredible run really. And still plenty of wood is getting cut with them and will be for many years yet. I hope to gather enough saws to keep at least 1 mac running until I cant run a saw anymore
 

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