Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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The new ram 3/4 & 1Ton (and i think chevy) have an option of a copy of the detroit truetrac carrier and ford has their electronic lockers.

Much better now


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
All I know is it was pretty bad, had to put it in 4wd all the time. That's isn't the worst of it, what was worse to me is that I liked to leave the hubs unlocked for better fuel Econ, so I'd have to get out lock the hubs and then get in the truck and switch it to 4wd :baba:.
 
All I know is it was pretty bad, had to put it in 4wd all the time. That's isn't the worst of it, what was worse to me is that I liked to leave the hubs unlocked for better fuel Econ, so I have to get out lock the hubs and then get in the truck and switch it to 4wd :baba:.
I swapped Dynatrac hubs on my Dodge...I have to say, the hubs were never locked when I actually needed them. Pretty embarrassing when you have to get out on a slippery road in the winter and the soccer mom zips around you in her AWD SUV...

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Nah, the Ram uses an AAM LSD (Trac-right?)...it relies on traction at both tires to work (the more traction, the tighter it clamps). I owned a 2004.5 2500 Cummins with the 11.5AAM, it had that LSD and it worked alright for 300k, it was pretty useless unless you had equal traction at both tires. It is closer to a fancy version of a Dana Powr-loc than anything else...except it didn't have preloaded clutches.

The GM HDs still use the G80 locking differential. I have one in this 2012 2500hd. It has its quirks...it clicks and chatters when engaging, typically bangs when it engages, does "lock" fairly well (it isn't a true locker, it just clamps down on the clutches and places so much pressure on them that they can't slip). Mine has worked well for 160k...it supposedly acts like a LSD until you slip one tire, then it locks (bang). There really isn't anything else out like a G80. While it works...I'm personally not a big fan.

Neither one is like a True-trac...



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2016
Ram 3500 SRW

I have been feed the wrong info about the carrier. But regardless....

I have multiple times been ditch hopping and had one rear wheel off the ground. The rear carrier has functioned fantastically. The wheel still on the ground gets power. Iv even stopped in the middle and then continued and it still worked well. Iv never needed equal traction on them.

Just my experience.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
2016
Ram 3500 SRW

I have been feed the wrong info about the carrier. But regardless....

I have multiple times been ditch hopping and had one rear wheel off the ground. The rear carrier has functioned fantastically. The wheel still on the ground gets power. Iv even stopped in the middle and then continued and it still worked well. Iv never needed equal traction on them.

Just my experience.


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
That was not my experience and I put 300k on one...and the general consensus on TDR was similar.

YMMV

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That was not my experience and I put 300k on one...and the general consensus on TDR was similar.

YMMV

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Ok im not going to argue with you sir. I respect you guys.

Lets move on then


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]
 
No pics but three tankfulls through the 4218 tonight widening my trails.

I’ve been cutting wood up here heavily since 2009 and it appears I’m finally getting caught up with basic maintenance. Once I get the 3-4 cords on the ground picked up and processed I can work on the tops piles and cherry pick dying/dead trees as I come across them.

After that I worked on my new to me Stihls. The 032 just had bad gas and needed the idle screw. It really runs great, revs up nice and gas plenty of torque. The 031 will run if you dribble fuel through the air cleaner but won’t run on its own, yet.
 
All I know is it was pretty bad, had to put it in 4wd all the time. That's isn't the worst of it, what was worse to me is that I liked to leave the hubs unlocked for better fuel Econ, so I'd have to get out lock the hubs and then get in the truck and switch it to 4wd :baba:.
I'm kinda hoping this one has the open diff rear. A real truth trac or Detroit locker will fill it nicely if it is. With the long wheel base even a Detroit will be easy to deal with. I prefer manual hubs. If you think you might need 4wd just turn them in befor you leave.
 
why you fileing the straps?

3/8 low profile...teeth are tiny....with the little 5/32 file that’s where it contacts when you file.
I use the Stihl 2 in 1 on my lp chain and as I've shown on here before, it holds the file high and you get odd looking teeth with no hook at all, but it still cuts well.

I have taken to a bit of free hand, 'get the gullet' occasionally though.
 
I use the Stihl 2 in 1 on my lp chain and as I've shown on here before, it holds the file high and you get odd looking teeth with no hook at all, but it still cuts well.

I have taken to a bit of free hand, 'get the gullet' occasionally though.
It’s tough to get much hook on a LP tooth with anything method, I just go by how it cuts. I sharpened that chain twice yesterday, once after rocking it then again after doing several stump cuts. Did a little more cutting and it was cutting well and throwing big chips.

I’ve only been hand filing for about a year and this chain will probably be the first that I’ll completely wear out by hand sharpening. Big difference than bringing your chains to the heavy handed hardware store employee where you get 3-4 sharpens before the tooth is gone!
 
It’s tough to get much hook on a LP tooth with anything method, I just go by how it cuts. I sharpened that chain twice yesterday, once after rocking it then again after doing several stump cuts. Did a little more cutting and it was cutting well and throwing big chips.

I’ve only been hand filing for about a year and this chain will probably be the first that I’ll completely wear out by hand sharpening. Big difference than bringing your chains to the heavy handed hardware store employee where you get 3-4 sharpens before the tooth is gone!
I get my 3/8 picco/lp chains back even on the grinder with the standard 3/8 wheel, then I hand file it a few strokes to get the hook back in it. I use a small file on them to get the hook back, but you can also take a little more off the rakers if you don't have the smaller file and they will throw big chips too. The rakers on a new picco chain are quite low, it surprised me how low, but they cut incredible. I like the picco/lp a lot on my baby saws it makes a small saw perform very well, and will increase the cut speed even on a 50cc saw until you get into ported saws, then the 3/8 will clear chips better. I'm also amazed at how long picco/LP holds an edge, maybe it's because the wood I'm cutting is cleaner. Did I say I like picco/lp :).
 
I get my 3/8 picco/lp chains back even on the grinder with the standard 3/8 wheel, then I hand file it a few strokes to get the hook back in it. I use a small file on them to get the hook back, but you can also take a little more off the rakers if you don't have the smaller file and they will throw big chips too. The rakers on a new picco chain are quite low, it surprised me how low, but they cut incredible. I like the picco/lp a lot on my baby saws it makes a small saw perform very well, and will increase the cut speed even on a 50cc saw until you get into ported saws, then the 3/8 will clear chips better. I'm also amazed at how long picco/LP holds an edge, maybe it's because the wood I'm cutting is cleaner. Did I say I like picco/lp :).
I have a couple loops of Stihl PS and that stuff is really good. I don’t use it often though now that I moved on from saw racing. I honestly get so much LP chain for cheap or free on saws that show up that I usually don’t need to buy any. Plus when I’m using the little saws I’m often cutting dirty wood.

And when I sell a saw I give them a fresh loop or two of whatever safety chain I have around. It’s not terrible but I hate filing those rakers.
 
I have a couple loops of Stihl PS and that stuff is really good. I don’t use it often though now that I moved on from saw racing. I honestly get so much LP chain for cheap or free on saws that show up that I usually don’t need to buy any. Plus when I’m using the little saws I’m often cutting dirty wood.

And when I sell a saw I give them a fresh loop or two of whatever safety chain I have around. It’s not terrible but I hate filing those rakers.
I use my tecomec to "file" those rakers/safety bumpers, to bad the raker grinder won't get them, it was never intended to do safety chain lol.
 
I use the Stihl 2 in 1 on my lp chain and as I've shown on here before, it holds the file high and you get odd looking teeth with no hook at all, but it still cuts well.

I have taken to a bit of free hand, 'get the gullet' occasionally though.
The husky guides do the same. Very little hook, ride high on the tooth but the chains cut real well.
 
I use my tecomec to "file" those rakers/safety bumpers, to bad the raker grinder won't get them, it was never intended to do safety chain lol.

We’ve taken those Oregon bumper drive link chains to the bench grinder. If you take off those dumb ramps you have a standard semi chisel chain and just need to adjust the regular rakers.
 
We’ve taken those Oregon bumper drive link chains to the bench grinder. If you take off those dumb ramps you have a standard semi chisel chain and just need to adjust the regular rakers.
I do the same thing with my 4" grinder, cuts them off real quick, but on chains I'm sharpening for others I usually leave them on. It's not like they are bore cutting with them so it doesn't slow them down, and a safety bumper isn't gonna slow down a semi-chisel chain much anyway, it's hard to get any slower, but both semi and the safety bumper have their place.
On the chains that have the small ramp I leave those as they do run a little smoother with them, but those don't get in the way of taking the rakers down much.
The husky guides do the same. Very little hook, ride high on the tooth but the chains cut real well.
What type of husky guide do you use James, the roller guide, that's the one I like when I'm using a guide. Although I don't have one for picco/lp chain yet, not sure why, maybe cause I'm cheap :D. The last guide I got was given to me by @Flint Mitch , the one it replaced was worn thin as a razor blade(and had a hole in it), could put it in my bug out bag :laugh:.

Side note, have any of you guys had problems breaking the small files, I've broken a good number of them.
 
I do the same thing with my 4" grinder, cuts them off real quick, but on chains I'm sharpening for others I usually leave them on. It's not like they are bore cutting with them so it doesn't slow them down, and a safety bumper isn't gonna slow down a semi-chisel chain much anyway, it's hard to get any slower, but both semi and the safety bumper have their place.
On the chains that have the small ramp I leave those as they do run a little smoother with them, but those don't get in the way of taking the rakers down much.

What type of husky guide do you use James, the roller guide, that's the one I like when I'm using a guide. Although I don't have one for picco/lp chain yet, not sure why, maybe cause I'm cheap :D. The last guide I got was given to me by @Flint Mitch , the one it replaced was worn thin as a razor blade(and had a hole in it), could put it in my bug out bag :laugh:.

Side note, have any of you guys had problems breaking the small files, I've broken a good number of them.
Agreed, I wouldn’t take the extra time (or potential liability) for others who wouldn’t notice the difference anyhow.
 
Have the same model Gravely and a home built trailer that looks nearly the same except ares is open at the back. I'll try to get some pics.

nice set up! I like my yard tractor converted to mini logging truck! sure beats the wheelbarrow for long distance loads. lol. my HF yard cart is beginning to show some load stress... bending. guess overloaded! lol. not much, but I could bend back and strengthen. but that changes the underside geometry... got other welding projects in the mill first. so, I think I will pick up a TS cart. they got one rated at 1200#s. should meet my urban needs. and the HF one... am thinking it can tag along as my equipment car. kinda like a scrounge train... albeit on the small side. can a caboose be far behind?.... :rolleyes:
 

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