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There's a guy on here that made a raker/depth gauge tool that measures to 1/1000ths of an inch. IMO, jolly good for him and to those that think that is awesome. My wood stove don't care.
I usually use an Oregon 511A type grinder at home, and touch up in the field with a file and basic guide. The grinder is especially important for refurbishing chains others have sharpened or abused, like some of the disaster volunteer groups I work with.If you’re going to go through all of that Philbert why not just grind them probably a cheaper option with more speed and accuracy.
Yes, no matter how you get there. In my opinion, it starts with knowing what a sharp cutter looks like. If you don't know that, just hitting it with a file, grinder, jig, etc. does not get you there.Sharp is sharp . . .
Disagree there. Chain will still cut, but with different length cutters comes different height cutters and different set (kerf width) of cutters. Cut will not be as smooth as if all cutters are the same.Length of the cutters to be uniform is also a myth. As long as the preceding raker is set correctly the cutter will cut independent of the length of the cutter before or following it.
The problem with the grinders is in making the gullet. Lay a straight edge across the side of the chain and you will see that the raker is inboard of the gullet edge. The gullet cuts and the grinders don't make for proper gullet shapes nor are they particularly sharp.
Personal preference. I respect that. People need to find what works for them.I had the Oregon grinder and I don’t think it can match a good file sharpening. The grinder came in handy when installing the chain repair kits after hitting a rock or pipe in the wood. I’ll stick with a file.
I may regret this but here you go Harley View attachment 748616View attachment 748617View attachment 748618
Liability reasons?? Do tell!
Depth gauge adjusting and replacing broken or damaged links are fading into the past. Spinning chain off a reel in house is getting rare, let alone bar maintenance.
I may regret this but here you go Harley View attachment 748616View attachment 748617View attachment 748618
In my opinion, it starts with knowing what a sharp cutter looks like. If you don't know that, just hitting it with a file, grinder, jig, etc. does not get you there.
We do all that at the shop. Thought it was SOP?
I can get 6 cord sawn stove length usually without much issue.You guys that file your own chains, how long do they last in hardwood? Mine sharp chains don't seem to last as long as think they should!
I can get 6 cord sawn stove length usually without much issue.
By not adjusting the depth gauge the potential for kickback is reduced. As most shops are not set up to adjust the depth gauge with the exactness that the chain came from the factory it is regarded as best to leave the factory depth gauge as is. The average chain saw sharpening machine is not as accurate before the operator is even involved, and all the guides to help people achieve some sort of unity across the length of chain are also not exact cutter to cutter in regards to as new from the factory, let alone most do not restore the depth gauge to the exact factory shape.
Depth gauge adjusting and replacing broken or damaged links are fading into the past. Spinning chain off a reel in house is getting rare, let alone bar maintenance.
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