044 STIHL MELTING WORM GEAR ON OILER

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Stihl calls it a bearing spacer most Stihl techs call it a sleeve , you cant get the rubber o ring from Stihl unless you buy the sleeve, I guess about everyone uses a dab of silicone on it
I am sorry that I could not explain it better
 
I kinda figured we were arguing about the same thing. I was calling it a bushing. You're calling it a sleeve
We have always called it a bushing as well, as it bushes up the crank to fit the seal, I referred to the part number back in an earlier post but I see now others have a different name for it. We have never referred to the bronze part of the oil pump drive as a bushing so confusion reigns.
 
They will melt if the clutch is hitting the worm gear, that's why I wanted him to try it without the washer, I think the problem is with the washer I know they had 2 different washers. and if on wrong it will lock up the worm. I would like to have it in my hands for about 10 min.
 
We all could fix it if we had it in our hands, I own 12 of the 044`s that I have built from the crank on up, 3 of them are Arctic models the others are both 10 mm and 12 mm pin so they cover the early to late models, been one of my pet project saws since the 1990`s.
 
So... Are we all in agreement then that if the washer is installed backwards it would cause friction on the bushing and melt the worm gear??

So then.... Pictures of original installation would be helpful
 
I had an AM crankshaft that the surface the worm gear bushing turned on was several thousandths too large. Thoroughly melted down the initial gear in no time flat, seconds. Ended up turning that part of the shaft. I was tempted to open the bushing but that would just build in a time bomb for somebody in the future.
 
The washer is marked "Top", which goes out.

Can't find a pic with that label on it, but this is the top. This side goes out toward the clutch

View attachment 752535

I believe it’s this way. IIRC, the concave part goes towards the worm gear, the convex part towards the clutch.

Again, making sure the tit of the worm gear arm rotates freely with a pic and doesn’t turn when crank is rotated is all you need to do to make sure it’s all good.
 

I believe it’s this way. IIRC, the concave part goes towards the worm gear, the convex part towards the clutch.

Again, making sure the tit of the worm gear arm rotates freely with a pic and doesn’t turn when crank is rotated is all you need to do to make sure it’s all good.

Well shìt. I had that backwards. Not sure if reversing it would interfere with the oil worm now. Sorry guys
 
Good morning Jerry.

It’s pretty clear that there is friction there. All he needs to do is see that the worm oiler tang rotates without resistance with the clutch tightened down. If there is resistance, there will be friction and a lot of heat really fast.

Good day Al, I was away for the weekend,

Yes there is friction in there but from all the 044`s and the later MS440`s I have owned, built and even repaired for others I have not come across this problem, there must be a easy answer here but its more difficult to picture in my head what is going on and help someone online. If I had the saw here I could fix it in a jiffy, easy task for me but not so easy for someone that has not torn so many down and built them back up. Sometimes when problems like this come along I will actually take one of my own saws apart and try to mimic the problem which I still might have to do to conquer this dilemma .
 
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