Light weight bar?

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Hambone

Ain’t she pittyful
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Hello all, so as most of you’ve seen, I recently purchased a 461. Came with a 30” and I purchased a 25”. Now I’m looking for a light weight 30/32” b&c for those extended use periods when the reach is needed. So far I’ve only had experience with Stihl. I’m not worried about cost as it’ll pay itself off in the end. So, who should I go with?

Thank you gentlemen
 
I bought a tsumura 28” as it was the best value in lightweight bars. (The brand rather)
It’s only been a year. Hard to say how many years it will feel new but... it still does.
Redbull sells them in classified.... check it out.

I have a Sugihara 36” as well. More tip rivets... slightly more money.
I would buy tsumara again next time.
 
Hello all, so as most of you’ve seen, I recently purchased a 461. Came with a 30” and I purchased a 25”. Now I’m looking for a light weight 30/32” b&c for those extended use periods when the reach is needed. So far I’ve only had experience with Stihl. I’m not worried about cost as it’ll pay itself off in the end. So, who should I go with?

Thank you gentlemen

Tsumara



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Another 30" bar? I don't know how much a bar weights period. So how much does your bar current weight, and what should the new bar weight to justify the expense?
the 28 lightweight i got from redbull was cheaper than a regular weight oregon at my local dealer so...
 
Cannon Super bars. :laughing: Light no. Last yes.

Those and the GB Titanium bars you can’t get easily here stateside anymore are in the same category.

Stihl nose sprockets last longer than the sprockets on Tsumara or Sugihara bars that seem to be all the rage right now. The other light bars are stiffer than the Stihl bars and less expensive. A lot of dealers east of the Rockies get confused when you ask them for a light bar, so I’ll just give you the part numbers for the Stihl bars in .050 and .063.

.050: 3003 000 2246

.063: 3003 000 2046
 
Another 30" bar? I don't know how much a bar weighs period. So how much does your bar current weigh, and what should the new bar weigh to justify the expense?

For the extended use days, I know I’m good with a standard full weight 30” for about an hour or so. Figured a light weight might assist in keeping fatigue at bay.

It’s also 100% possible I’m looking at this from the wrong angle. Which is why I’m asking.
 
Those and the GB Titanium bars you can’t get easily here stateside anymore are in the same category.

Stihl nose sprockets last longer than the sprockets on Tsumara or Sugihara bars that seem to be all the rage right now. The other light bars are stiffer than the Stihl bars and less expensive. A lot of dealers east of the Rockies get confused when you ask them for a light bar, so I’ll just give you the part numbers for the Stihl bars in .050 and .063.

.050: 3003 000 2246

.063: 3003 000 2046

As you know the Stihl bars are honeycombed rather than slotted.

When you bend a Honeycomb bar, it’s rendered useless because it’s near impossible to re-true.

I’m too hard on my stuff to go that route.


Stihl ES Light 3/8" 0.063"
25"- 3003 000 2036
28"- 3003 000 2038
32"- 3003 000 2046
36"- 3003 000 2053



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For the extended use days, I know I’m good with a standard full weight 30” for about an hour or so. Figured a light weight might assist in keeping fatigue at bay.

It’s also 100% possible I’m looking at this from the wrong angle. Which is why I’m asking.

I'll share my experiences, for what it's worth. 57yo, in good shape, and cutting wood really wears me out. The handling of the saw is such a small part of it. The anxiety of (the danger) of dropping a tree use to be a big factor, but after maybe a hundred not so much anymore. The noise really wears me out, even with ear plugs. It is the handling of the wood that takes the most toll. Maneuvering the large logs, (cables, chains, dragging them, rolling them), and the lifting into a trailer (or truck bed), and the splitting, and stacking, etc. There is so much involved and it is ALL physical. And the chainsaw factor is rather small. And it has become smaller over time, as my chain sharpening skills have increased. The sharp chain is so so important in making the saw do its job. Unless you just got gobs of money with nothing better to do with it, the 2nd bar can wait. IMO.
 
I'll share my experiences, for what it's worth. 57yo, in good shape, and cutting wood really wears me out. The handling of the saw is such a small part of it. The anxiety of (the danger) of dropping a tree use to be a big factor, but after maybe a hundred not so much anymore. The noise really wears me out, even with ear plugs. It is the handling of the wood that takes the most toll. Maneuvering the large logs, (cables, chains, dragging them, rolling them), and the lifting into a trailer (or truck bed), and the splitting, and stacking, etc. There is so much involved and it is ALL physical. And the chainsaw factor is rather small. And it has become smaller over time, as my chain sharpening skills have increased. The sharp chain is so so important in making the saw do its job. Unless you just got gobs of money with nothing better to do with it, the 2nd bar can wait. IMO.

Sounds like my father speaking to me. 99% of the time he’s correct. I’ll take your advice and work on the other skills first.
 
Sounds like my father speaking to me. 99% of the time he’s correct. I’ll take your advice and work on the other skills first.

Within reason, a longer bar works you less, i.e., less bending, reaching, etc.

32” is a good all around length.



50012ce9b12247649173377da1abb6f5.jpg




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Within reason, a longer bar works you less, i.e., less bending, reaching, etc.

32” is a good all around length.



50012ce9b12247649173377da1abb6f5.jpg




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If you’re short and not in big wood, 28 is pretty good too. To your above post, honeycombed bars are more likely to have a lateral movement but are less likely to twist. I haven’t really worried about it.

I’ll echo what was said above. The chainsaw, unless you’re running it all day, is probably one of the easier parts of doing forestry work or making firewood. Up and down hills, through brush, dragging brush, moving wood, splitting it, even on and off bigger equipment or dragging cables and chains to hook up through the woods is hard. More time on the saw will build up your muscles and it won’t be as big of a deal anymore, just like all the other parts of working in the woods.

Get good at that and acquire tools to help in that before you spend $150 on a bar and the chains for it. $150 will get you a pretty decent maul, some falling wedges and a Council Tool axe, or an older head and a handle you can put together. Or, an inexperienced user can bend an $150 bar that won’t be easy to get straight.
 
Get good at that and acquire tools to help in that before you spend $150 on a bar and the chains for it. $150 will get you a pretty decent maul, some falling wedges and a Council Tool axe, or an older head and a handle you can put together.

And don't forget a Pickeroon (aka hookaroon) and a Cant Hook (or even better a timberjack) which are both a huge help in the more dull physical efforts of logging.
 
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