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Pioneer chainsaws
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powerstroke73
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for the info. I'll keep an eye out for some parts. It sounds like bad bearings in the P12 to me. I have a few saws with toasted pistons and this doesn't seem the same. I haven't worked on anything this small before, it will be interesting.
Michael RPH
ArboristSite Lurker
Hello, sharing some additional info regarding the Pioneer 3071 ignition coil repair originally posted by S_Bluck.
Following the steps described by S_Bluck, I found and ordered a coil on ebay. Although it looked the same, I could not get the coil positioned close enough to the flywheel for it to work. After much head scratching I looked more closely at the coil images posted by S_Bluck and discovered that the coil I received although similar and described in the ebay ad exactly as S_Bluck posted, was actually not quite the same.
I'm going to try uploading a couple pics that highlight the main differences. The key difference is that the recessed area is slightly deeper and the stacked steel protrusions slightly longer on the coil that can be modified to fit. The easiest way I found to identify the correct coil on ebay was to look at how the ground wire connection protrudes out the back. On the correct coil it is silver in color and protrudes straight out the back. On the incorrect coil it is brass color and has a 90 degree bend. Testing with an Ohm meter the coil that can be made to fit also has more resistance.
Hope this helps others that may have a need to replace the coil on their 3071.
Following the steps described by S_Bluck, I found and ordered a coil on ebay. Although it looked the same, I could not get the coil positioned close enough to the flywheel for it to work. After much head scratching I looked more closely at the coil images posted by S_Bluck and discovered that the coil I received although similar and described in the ebay ad exactly as S_Bluck posted, was actually not quite the same.
I'm going to try uploading a couple pics that highlight the main differences. The key difference is that the recessed area is slightly deeper and the stacked steel protrusions slightly longer on the coil that can be modified to fit. The easiest way I found to identify the correct coil on ebay was to look at how the ground wire connection protrudes out the back. On the correct coil it is silver in color and protrudes straight out the back. On the incorrect coil it is brass color and has a 90 degree bend. Testing with an Ohm meter the coil that can be made to fit also has more resistance.
Hope this helps others that may have a need to replace the coil on their 3071.
Excellent explanation!
i everyone,I just bought a P20 last week.I've also got 3 1074's that I bougt about 2 yrs.ago & just never got around to fixing them.The P20 is in fairly rough shape with a lot of paint loss,but that doesn't matter much to me as long as I can get this old relic to run again.I took the flywheel off to see what condition the points were in,they looked almost new.I cleaned them a bit & st the gap at .015.I couldn't check to see if my efforts were successful becauser whoever worked on te saw previously lost the E clip for the points cover.I plan on going to the hardware store tomorrow to get a new E clip.I'm finding out that condensers for the Pioneer saws are VERY hard to come by.I was told to chip the saw,but there's no room to put a chip on the P20.Does anyone know where I can get a new condenser,or if I could put an electronic module on it from another saw or trimmer?Thanks in advance!
Ed
Ed
This is a listing for the 473161 condensor. Failing that, there are likely many other similar condensers that would work. I have had success using condensors off of Mini Macs on some 7xx-9xx Homelites.
https://www.ebay.com/c/588320942
ML12
ArboristSite Guru
If that condenser is the same as the one used on the 750 etc then they are still available as a evinrude/Johnson outboard part
I don't believe the 750 condenser is the same as the P20.
Ed
Ed
Ed there is one used on ebay. Can you take a picture of the bottom of the condenser. There will be numbers stamped on it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Points-473...28682d10b4:g:inIAAOSwMzVbo-oD&redirect=mobile
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Points-473...28682d10b4:g:inIAAOSwMzVbo-oD&redirect=mobile
I'll look tomorrow, I have a p20 parts saw. If the condenser is still there it's yours.
Thanks Jason,I do appreciate your efforts.If it's possible could you check tat saw to see if it has spark?No sense in pulling a condenser off & sending it to me if it's no good
Ed
Ed
possible to have spark w/bad condenser.
a good one prevents arcing @ points.
you'd be lookin for spark, then good look @ points for burnt.
i dunno how to test other than puttin power to them, then touch wire to condenser case, lookin for a spark.
a good one prevents arcing @ points.
you'd be lookin for spark, then good look @ points for burnt.
i dunno how to test other than puttin power to them, then touch wire to condenser case, lookin for a spark.
There are capacitance testers out there for testing condensers,but finding a tester that can simulate a condenser under a load is difficult to find,if you can find one at all,& they're quite expensive too.I took 6 brand new condensers to Bob Johnson last month to have them tested & every damn one of them leaked.I bought them from Standard Magneto in Chicago & I highly doubt I'll ever do business with them again.
Ed
Ed
Looks like the tail end of a Frontier sittin' in front of it in the second pic. Think this F-35 would be the pre-chain brake little brother to a P12. The sprocket cover looks to be cast the same to accommodate the brake flag assembly.
I picked up a Holiday 1100B on Ebay for $25 & got it yesterday.It didn't have spark,so I tried to take the flywheel off to get to the points.I finally succeeded this a.m..The points werren't burnt,they were just tarnished.I cleaned them up good with emery cloth,put them back in & gapped them & had spark.I put some fuel in the tank & found that the saw has the old wick filter.I did get it running after several primes & then it just quit on me,no spark.My guess is that the condenser took a dump as that'll happen sometimes after sitting for a number of yrs.Everything in that saw reeked of an early Homelite XL-12 & SXL.The entire ignition system was just like the old Homelite.I'm thinking that a Wico condenser from a Homelite XL-12 or SXL would work?
Ed
Ed
I have an 1100G. Good saws. Not a speed demon but good torque IMO. I'm not sure if the Homelite condenser will work but I'm curious. I like to collect this kind of info so if it does let us know. When I rebuilt mine I used rings for a SXL and they where plug and play.
Will do Jason.I'll check my stash of condensers in the a.m.& see what I've got.I did find a Wico condenser for the 1100 on Ebay for $8 + shipping ($3),but once again it's the time element that does in NOS condensers.I'd rather have a newer Homelite condenser that I know will possibly work,rather than a very old "NOS" condenser that might be DOA.
Ed
Ed
As a redneck fixamoligist, can't you tap that coil a little farther on to the lamenents to fix that problem?
looked again, never mind. lol
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