Farmertec longevity

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I have run about 50 tanks on my 070 runs better than when it first started. I still have the same decomp valve even though I have many Stihl spares. I am hooked on its torque, but my 076 can't keep up with it. The 076 is tired needs to be gone through. It some how got put away wet. If the 070 did not run so good the 076 would get a lot more attention. Thanks
 
For the 440 is it just bad to build or the worst quality parts out of all of them?

Of the ones that I have built, each had it's own separate issues.. one was the flywheel, one the coil, one the carb, one I replaced the carb and coil, then when the owner received it the recoil starter broke. One had a clutch explode.... Had to replace everything inside there. And one had a wristpin circlip come out which ruined the Piston and cylinder. I have made the consious decision to never build another one and have turned people away when they ask. Honestly the 440 kit is more expensive than the 660 anyway, so my advice is to either get a 380 or a 660 every time.
 
Of the ones that I have built, each had it's own separate issues.. one was the flywheel, one the coil, one the carb, one I replaced the carb and coil, then when the owner received it the recoil starter broke. One had a clutch explode.... Had to replace everything inside there. And one had a wristpin circlip come out which ruined the Piston and cylinder. I have made the consious decision to never build another one and have turned people away when they ask. Honestly the 440 kit is more expensive than the 660 anyway, so my advice is to either get a 380 or a 660 every time.
Great to know i think I might buy one from someone that’s ran 3 tanks through it
 
The 388 could make for a decent "Trash" saw for around here, stumps, pallets etc. Smack a cheap 20" Forester bar on there and go to town.

Now if the thing only gives one grief, there wouldn't be much point to that either.
Interesting thought tho.
 
Last summer I picked this up at a yard sale for a song. I could have replaced every wear item including A/V with OEM and still been well under $200. If you are patient there are deals to be had.
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Just don't feel like the Chi-com junk is the only way...

Pretty awesome, but if youre like me and dont really have the time and/or the luck to hunt these things down that does narrow the choices a bit.
 
Pretty awesome, but if youre like me and dont really have the time and/or the luck to hunt these things down that does narrow the choices a bit.
I work about 60 hours a week and commute 2 1/2 hours round trip each day. I have no time either. A stop once a month in a shop or a garage sale here or there is all it takes. I got three other Stihls along with that red lever at one garage sale. All had been ran with bad fuel.
 
check the spelling on the tag
The China kits I have looked at didn't even have a tag period on the crankcase, but there maybe exceptions..or could be added. The recoil badge/sticker/decal is funny.

s-l1600.jpg
 
So I'll take it that the large majority of ppl here on AS who get in to these roll their own rather than picking up assembled units?

What's the quality like on the ready to run stuff? Blue Max quality? Better? Worse?
 
So I'll take it that the large majority of ppl here on AS who get in to these roll their own rather than picking up assembled units?

What's the quality like on the ready to run stuff? Blue Max quality? Better? Worse?
The pre-assembled ones are decent quality for their price. You can make them better by building it yourself, but sometimes a few of the individual parts you will have to either repair or replace, so it becomes a gamble.. I have done so many that I can see the bad parts before I assemble them and have replacements on hand most of the time, so it doesn't slow me down as much as it would for someone who orders one kit and builds it, then runs into trouble.
 
The China kits I have looked at didn't even have a tag period on the crankcase, but there maybe exceptions..or could be added. The recoil badge/sticker/decal is funny.

s-l1600.jpg

So what does a wobbly crankshaft and a squeezed ball bearing do to an engine (and chain) at 10.000 rpm anyway?
 
So what does a wobbly crankshaft and a squeezed ball bearing do to an engine (and chain) at 10.000 rpm anyway?

Ummm. Surely you can't be serious.... It will cause the seals to wear out, ruin the race that the bearings sit in, may or may not ruin the main bearing, but will definitely score the Piston and cylinder on one side... Basically it will trash the bulk of the bottom end.... Good news is, it shouldn't affect the bar and chain
 
Ummm. Surely you can't be serious.... It will cause the seals to wear out, ruin the race that the bearings sit in, may or may not ruin the main bearing, but will definitely score the Piston and cylinder on one side... Basically it will trash the bulk of the bottom end.... Good news is, it shouldn't affect the bar and chain

I'm thinking of a different kind of wobble perhaps, you pull the starter slowly and evenly and since the clutch assembly is not there yet and you have just the axle on the clutch side to look at you see at the end of the axle it wobbles back and forth - it's not straight.
Basically that means that the clutch cup / chain sprocket with it's weight is thrown about and that the chain is constantly pulled and released - at 10000 rpm. It may affect... a lot of things probably, longevity might be one of them.
 
I'm thinking of a different kind of wobble perhaps, you pull the starter slowly and evenly and since the clutch assembly is not there yet and you have just the axle on the clutch side to look at you see at the end of the axle it wobbles back and forth - it's not straight.
Basically that means that the clutch cup / chain sprocket with it's weight is thrown about and that the chain is constantly pulled and released - at 10000 rpm. It may affect... a lot of things probably, longevity might be one of them.

I don't know of any reason for that to be wobbly other than the fact that it was probably not pulled into the bearing properly, but was misaligned and forced together causing it. Unless the shaft itself is bent... Either way the things I described will most likely happen, depending on the severity of the bend or misalignment. If it is on the clutch side, it probably won't damage the chain or bar, unless it is so severe that it causes the chain to come off. Sounds like you need to split the case and put a new crank and bearings in. I would be happy to help if you need me to.
 
I don't know of any reason for that to be wobbly other than the fact that it was probably not pulled into the bearing properly, but was misaligned and forced together causing it. Unless the shaft itself is bent... Either way the things I described will most likely happen, depending on the severity of the bend or misalignment. If it is on the clutch side, it probably won't damage the chain or bar, unless it is so severe that it causes the chain to come off. Sounds like you need to split the case and put a new crank and bearings in. I would be happy to help if you need me to.
Since you have a lot of experience with these my question is do the crankshafts usually have problems or would it be safe to use them? Do they fit tight on the bearings and withstand stress as these have been around long enough to have been tested for the most part?
 
The China kits I have looked at didn't even have a tag period on the crankcase, but there maybe exceptions..or could be added. The recoil badge/sticker/decal is funny.

s-l1600.jpg
All 6 of these i bought have this generic tag.
We run them all the time.
Been looking at the 268/272 clones
There's even have a 84cc 272 clone.
The emas 484.
The 365 and 61/268/272
Seem to have been produced the longest in china
They were the first one's i saw online
5 year's ago or so
Then the 660 kits came along.
afleetcommand on YouTube has built many of them
And has them in loggers hands to run.
Check out his video's.20170218_115858.jpg
 
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