Air drying help

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BJD85

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Red Oak air drying in my garage is starting to split. Its sealed at the ends. Its up off the ground and as level as I could possibly get it without stabbig myself. And I have 3 ciider blocks over top of it. Any suggestions?
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The wood fiber's is constructed by God to inherit a great amount of water at all times, so what necessarily happens when the water exit's?
 
Looks like it splitting through the pith, happens all the time...

I would be drying it out doors, covered. out of the sun...

SR
Ok I thought so considering wood weight is about half water I just wanted to check in with some experienced pros. Its going to be a table. I guess I'll just fill it with epoxy. What is the advantage of drying outdoors?
 
Ok I thought so considering wood weight is about half water I just wanted to check in with some experienced pros. Its going to be a table. I guess I'll just fill it with epoxy. What is the advantage of drying outdoors?
And thank you for the response
 
Drying outside will slow the drying process a little, that = less stress on the lumber...

Putting a bigger cover on the stack will keep it in the shade... I use pole barn tin when ever I can...

SR
 
Sawyer Rob has many years of wisdom, and I agree, looks like splitting at the pith, happens all the time. If you plan to air dry wood you need to first understand the pith and second understand that problems develop like it or not.
 
Sawyer Rob has many years of wisdom, and I agree, looks like splitting at the pith, happens all the time. If you plan to air dry wood you need to first understand the pith and second understand that problems develop like it or not.
Its a learning experience. I learn by doing. Im not afraid of mistakes or angred by problems arising. Its all part of the process. Its rewarding enough just listining to my saw run. Ive already sold enough slabs to smile at anything that happens from here on out. I appreciate your input and I will start researching and working the pith.
 
As Sawyer Rob says, it looks like pith.

Is it happening in all your "slabs" or just that one (and maybe the two boards on either side?) If just that one from the pith, it is not only common but usually to be expected.

I usually rip the pith board(s) right through the heart wood ( I usually have two sometimes three 9/4 pith boards because I don't have a bigger circular saw) right after I mill them . Often, you can see where the check is going to occur and just pull a chalkline right down it. Then rip it with your circular saw or chainsaw. OR, cut the pith 4 or 6 inches thick as needed- rip with chainsaw - and cut beams/table legs, depending on length, out of them later.

I keep saying I'm gonna get a 10 1/4 inch circular saw so I can rip through 3-1/2 inch boards, but I keep spending the money on other tools.:(
 
As Sawyer Rob says, it looks like pith.

Is it happening in all your "slabs" or just that one (and maybe the two boards on either side?) If just that one from the pith, it is not only common but usually to be expected.

I usually rip the pith board(s) right through the heart wood ( I usually have two sometimes three 9/4 pith boards because I don't have a bigger circular saw) right after I mill them . Often, you can see where the check is going to occur and just pull a chalkline right down it. Then rip it with your circular saw or chainsaw. OR, cut the pith 4 or 6 inches thick as needed- rip with chainsaw - and cut beams/table legs, depending on length, out of them later.

I keep saying I'm gonna get a 10 1/4 inch circular saw so I can rip through 3-1/2 inch boards, but I keep spending the money on other tools.:(
Yeah its just that 1 slab so far. Of course it's the thickest one [emoji853]
 
If the board/slab is close to pith it will tend to have splits there.

Best use of center slab, besides boxed heart beams, is to split it in two, then take off edges and pith from each half.

Then you end up with two quarter sawn boards/planks that tend to be stable and not check.
 
You might get lucky and only have the checks on one side. So might be able to just hide them on a side you won't see.
That would be really nice. Another alternitive im thinking of is maybe if it cracks alot on one side I'll fill the cracks with black epoxy during the finosh. Give it a little chartacter
 
Sawdust from sandings of the same wood would make a good filler, covered with a sealer like spar varnish
thats a good idea. How long would i need to wait untill I can paint my first board with spar. About 2 inches thick the one I want to paint is
 
thats a good idea. How long would i need to wait untill I can paint my first board with spar. About 2 inches thick the one I want to paint is

It takes quite a while to air dry, depends on the wood,thickness, and where you are drying it.

Looks like you have things in a basement. How are you removing moisture from the air and circulating it?
 
Red oak has closed cells so it takes longer for water to wick out causing it to dry slower then other woods.
Red oak is the most plentiful wood I cut for firewood and it almost always splits if the wood is cut green. If I wait till most of the water has dried out, it does seem to be more stable.
If you want big slabs, your gonna have to get trees that are big enough to get your slab size without getting into the pith.
 
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