highly recommended dump bed trailers?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I think the 3 stage generally lifts higher. Not sure how important that is though since they both lift high enough dump most anything you can put in there. A steep dump angle is kind of wasted on trailers anyways because the box isn't high off the ground like a dump truck. There isn't anywhere for the material to go once you start dumping so most dump trailers leave long piles rather than high piles.

With all that said, I wouldn't pay more for a 3 stage over a scissor but if the cost was the same then I would probably go with the 3 stage.
 
So, having watched the video of three same brand trailers, it is still a vague choice between the scissors and the single three stage lift.
What are peoples thoughts?
Is an off center load going to be a problem with the three stage set-up, or not that big a deal? Does one raise higher than the other? Is one more apt or likely damaged? Straight front box vs tilted top lip?

I also looked at Bri Mar/B Wise on line. Bri Mar being the basic model and B Wise loaded up with hydraulics, jack and multi function tailgate, to 15k -19k on-line ads depending on length. They say prep and paint is the same for both lines, with the exception of a two tone choices on the B Wise line.


Good question. I would say the weakest type would be the duel cylinder because the starting point it has the most stress on the beginning of the lift. Next would be the scissor lift type because it would have more starting power at the beginning of the lift. And the strongest would be the telescoping type. I also think the telescope type has the best lift angle height according to the video.

I called the galvanizing plant and got a price for a hot dip. It cost $0.48 per pound and they weigh it after it's dipped. So my 16' utility trailer is about 1500 lbs dry weight so thats $720 for the dip not including the sand blast witch he said they didn't do.
It would also have to be stripped down to bear metal with all moving parts removed. I put in a call about a price for sandblasting but haven't got a price yet.

The dip sounds very reasonable compared to how much a paint job would cost. Of corse if you have a heavy trailer that cost would be more. If the dry weight is 4K it would cost $1,920 for the hot dip alone plus sandblasting.
I'll post the sandblasting price when he calls back.

My old utility trailer needs a new floor and I was planning on replacing it sometime this winter before it gets hot again. If the price is right, I'm gonna have it blasted and hot dipped and I should never need paint again.
 
Up date. The cost of sandblasting for my utility trailer cost $1,000 and the hot dip is $0.48 per pound so my 1500 lbs trailer would cost about $1,700 for sandblasting and hot dipping. I talked to the sandblasting place and they can also powder coat as well. He is supposed to call me back on the price for powder coating the trailer. I also found out that they can powder coat over galvanized metal so if you don't like the look of galvanizing you can paint or powder coat over the galvanizing.
I would think a galvanized trailer that was also powder coated would last a lifetime. It would be expensive but your trailer would look great for decades.
 
Up date. The cost of sandblasting for my utility trailer cost $1,000 and the hot dip is $0.48 per pound so my 1500 lbs trailer would cost about $1,700 for sandblasting and hot dipping. I talked to the sandblasting place and they can also powder coat as well. He is supposed to call me back on the price for powder coating the trailer. I also found out that they can powder coat over galvanized metal so if you don't like the look of galvanizing you can paint or powder coat over the galvanizing.
I would think a galvanized trailer that was also powder coated would last a lifetime. It would be expensive but your trailer would look great for decades.

I seen a galvanized trailer ----not the prettiest but logically the better for longevity. I thought about when get my new trailer if I do not like the galvanizing I will just get part of it line-X coated.
 
If you are going to pull a trailer a lot in salt it better be aluminum or galvanized. I have a buddy that has a gooseneck flat bed that he pulls a bunch in the salt and that trailer is galvanized and 15 years old and still looks good and isn't rusted out. Paint and powder coat just won't stand up to salt long term. We used to have steel livestock trailers that we used in the winter and would try to keep them washed and they just wouldn't last finally went to aluminum and no issues with salt.
 
If you are going to pull a trailer a lot in salt it better be aluminum or galvanized. I have a buddy that has a gooseneck flat bed that he pulls a bunch in the salt and that trailer is galvanized and 15 years old and still looks good and isn't rusted out. Paint and powder coat just won't stand up to salt long term. We used to have steel livestock trailers that we used in the winter and would try to keep them washed and they just wouldn't last finally went to aluminum and no issues with salt.


The problem with aluminum is if something gets bent, it can't be bent back without it cracking or breaking.
 
I do not use my trailer once winter sets in. Do not have the hot water luxury of being able to keep the salt off of it.
 
My guess is most trailer manufactures don't properly prep there trailers before they are painted. We all know what bare metal stock looks like and after it has welding soot where it was welded and slag and flux not chipped off and welding splatter stuck to it.
I bet they just hit it with a wire brush at best and then paint. I bet some don't even use a primer.
 
I seen on another forum the guy had a removeable arch on the back end of the trailer and a receiver hitch with winch on the front. I am going to have this mod built into my next trailer. Very easy to move logs into the trailer.
 
I seen on another forum the guy had a removeable arch on the back end of the trailer and a receiver hitch with winch on the front. I am going to have this mod built into my next trailer. Very easy to move logs into the trailer.


Yeah, that's like the the old gin pole trucks that used a V shaped arch and winch to lift and load heavy objects. Commonly used on heavy construction like the railroad, pipeline and oil field. Most are removable to make them more versatile.
 
Pcoz88 Shortys Auction Service has a 6x10 tandem axel at auction this Sunday at 1:00 in tiffin. You can see it on auctionzip. Might be worth a look.
 
Whatever brand or style you go with I can tell you this from experience, don't dump it on a side hill and try and keep the load centered if at all possible. It's like any other tool, use your head and it will last a good long while.
 
I've seen two dump trucks on their side with the box up. One, dumping with the tailgate chained for dumping on the go. He was on a super elevated freeway circle ramp under construction. The driver was young and new, was related to the superintendent, and new to driving a dump was being cautious. The superintendent jumped in to show him how dumping on the run is done, or not done. The remainder of the load had to be shoveled out by hand before uprighting the truck. The box or the truck frame was definitely sprung. The other was on flat ground and the load stuck in the front of the box. When he went over he landed on the foreman's pickup truck.
Whatever brand or style you go with I can tell you this from experience, don't dump it on a side hill and try and keep the load centered if at all possible. It's like any other tool, use your head and it will last a good long while.
 
Tillman manufacturing Chambersburg Pa. builds trailers for a lot of trailer companies . Was able to buy direct from them as they have a dealer license and paid no tax since I was from New Jersey . Have had it for over 10 years not a single complaint trailer was primed and painted . 10 x 6 , 10,000 pound was $3400.00 . I would buy another without a doubt .
 
Back
Top