3/8 full skip on shorter bars for smaller saws???

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Just a thought...no not that THOT.. an actual mental exercise (for me anyways) a lot of folks run 3/8's on smaller saws IE: 346OE with the small 3/8's rim and a 18" bar. Would a full skip chain be of any advantage? comment below with your thoughts. I ask as i bought a full roll of 3/8's full skip when the getting was good and was thinking why not n the 346? then I thought..wonder if it will give it a "boost" in chain speed and cutting with less teeth and the ability to clear chips easier...
 
Fai
I run full skip on all my saws. 18" (yes 3/8s also) up to 41" is what I have. Cuts the same, less cutters to sharpen.
fair enough, are any of them 50cc or below? if so what is your impression of the saws cutting with it vs the original chain?
 
For most cutting I run 16 semi skip on my 462. I tried full skip but did not like it limbing hardwoods. Lacking a better description I'd say it "chattered" in the small diameter.
sounds like an issue to me...this is what I am looking for folks definitive feedback from someone who tried it...this is the best thing about this forum...guys who have tried stuff before me that I can use as a databank to prevent me wasting my time. Leeroy, thanks for the input.

Off course, i am always willing to give feedback if i think its of value and can help.
 
My finding is that full skip cuts as fast or better than full house regardless of cc or species.
Ironically saw racers use full house. Full skip provides more room for the chips.
Also a rocked out chipper chain won’t cut as fast as a sharp chisel chain.
 
Fai

fair enough, are any of them 50cc or below? if so what is your impression of the saws cutting with it vs the original chain?

Smallest of mine is the ms290 (56cc). I don't recall how well the previous full comp .325 chain cut. It has been hanging off a nail in the garage for the last 5 or 6 years. A neighbor runs a (50cc) Stihl ms271 with .325 and it is a dog compared to the 290 with the 3/8 skip. I have been trying to get him to switch over to a 3/8, but no luck so far.
 
Smaller saws that have decent torque have no trouble running 3/8. Look at the old Homelite Super EZ....40 cc saw would pull a 16" loop of 3/8 nicely.
 
'Smaller' saws usually run 'smaller' chain and cut 'smaller' wood - everything is relative. When cutting limbs and branches, .325 will be smoother vs full 3/8 pitch. Skip chain will be bouncier. Less of an issue on larger diameter wood, but 'smaller' saws will have less power for larger wood.

That said, some 30-40 cc saws and some pole saws are sold with 3/8 low profile, skip chain to let them run longer bars (fewer cutters in the cut means less load on the powerhead), but these are often equipped with low-kickback chain (the kind with the larger bumper tie straps) to 'fill in' the spaces.

Philbert
 
all great replies, and great info. I just have a whole roll of 3/8' semi skip and if I can use it on everything except the T540 it would save me money on my wood ;)
Philbert beat me to it, but you would probably be money ahead to sell loops of your skip chain and buy the proper ones for your other saws.
 
Full skip chisel chain on smaller saws? I’d go for it. Add a larger pin rim with a drum. To take advantage of the easier cutting and chip exhaust. Remember to do the gullet.

I read a lot of sawers change the .325” to .3/8” chain on the smaller saws. I’m going to get a full Skip chisel chain and try it on my 3/8” saws.

I never used a skip tooth semi chisel chain until my dealer hooked me up with my new 385 XP and 575 XP with the 32” & 28” bars. I always thought semi chisel was much slower.
 
If you have it, try it. If it does not work, re-spin the loop to fit another one of your saws.

Or put the roll of chain on CL and buy what you want/need.

Philbert

Philbert beat me to it, but you would probably be money ahead to sell loops of your skip chain and buy the proper ones for your other saws.

sorry I got it to cheap to sell it off :) and it works well on my 372's regardless of bar length so I am pretty much set for life on chain if I keep it. ;) I know I have been accused of being a cheap Irish bastard and many other things......its not my fault if they are correct! ha ha ha
 
sorry I got it to cheap to sell it off :) and it works well on my 372's regardless of bar length so I am pretty much set for life on chain if I keep it. ;) I know I have been accused of being a cheap Irish bastard and many other things......its not my fault if they are correct! ha ha ha
Trying a larger drive sprocket is a few dollars and can work very well. I miscounted making a loop for my 60" bar for milling and it was easier to run an 8 pin on my 661. Happened to scream with that semi-skip Stihl in Maple:yes: definitely open the gullets up, improves Oregon right off the reel, Stihl gullets are better from my experience.
Franklin stated "penny saved is a penny earned "
Play safe Ya'll
 
My thoughts-
If your saw is a high rpm powerhouse with shorter bar you may have to fight to stay off the rev limiter with skip.
I certainly do.
I find myself pushing down to create additional load or running 3/4 throttle.
 
I've found over decades of cutting that saws in the 50-55cc range are pretty fond of 18" .325" chains full comp (I use and prefer semi-chisel these days simply because it stays sharp longer). I know the factory set many up with 3/8" and some even had 20" bars on them like the Husqvarna Rancher 55's and I think the later model Stratto 55 units are 3/8" as well.

If you are cutting firewood and tops or smaller logs and not in a big hurry 3/8" is probably OK, and full skip probably even better. However if you have a 50cc saw with good power, like a closed port 55 or Echo CS-501P, 510 or 520 you're going to find them quite capable of running .325" full comp on an 18" bar with great authority and no need to go to the expanse of converting to 3/8" if they are already set-up accordingly.

You'd be surprised how much better an older 55 "Rancher" cuts if you just drop it back from 20" 3/8" to 18" and careful with raker height.....FWIW........Cliff
 
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