Homelite Chainsaws

[2broke2ride]

Picked up a bar and chain today, D196 went on with just a touch of grinding to the tensioner pin.
I cleaned and lubed the recoil. The damn spring exploded on me. The band that is supposed to rivet it together was broken. I had to get creative with safety wire to get it rewound and installed.
The manual oiler is really hard to press and refills very slowly. It does work however. Should I be thinning my bar oil already? It is t super cold here yet, 30s at night and 50s during the day.

I got the oiler working well by running some ATF through it but now I seem to have a pretty bad leak from this fitting. I tried tightening it to no avail. Anybody know the solution? I dont want to take it all apart and make a bad situation worse if I cant get needed parts.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I got the oiler working well by running some ATF through it but now I seem to have a pretty bad leak from this fitting. I tried tightening it to no avail. Anybody know the solution? I dont want to take it all apart and make a bad situation worse if I cant get needed parts.

Parts if interchangeable with the XL-12s will be plentiful.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Should I attempt to separate the gas tank front on my super 1050 automatic to change the fuel line?

 

[2broke2ride]

Should I attempt to separate the gas tank front on my super 1050 automatic to change the fuel line?

Actually, I just watched a video on Leon's channel where he talked about how to do it without taking the tank apart. It's actually easy. Let me see if I can find a link.

 

[2broke2ride]

Actually, I just watched a video on Leon's channel where he talked about how to do it without taking the tank apart. It's actually easy. Let me see if I can find a link.

Here ya go.

 

[2broke2ride]

Parts if interchangeable with the XL-12s will be plentiful.

I'm pretty certain this is totally different than an XL12

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Here ya go.

Thanks

 

[undee70ss]

Should I attempt to separate the gas tank front on my super 1050 automatic to change the fuel line?

No remove tank and remove threaded fitting from tank.

 

[Hoggwood]

I got the oiler working well by running some ATF through it but now I seem to have a pretty bad leak from this fitting. I tried tightening it to no avail. Anybody know the solution? I dont want to take it all apart and make a bad situation worse if I cant get needed parts.

The ferrule that seats into the female fitting is either cockeyed or has been cranked down too much and is now not sealing. You could try twisting up some Teflon and wrapping behind the ferrule like the packing in a shutoff valve. It should take up some space and allow the compression nut to seat better and force the compression. An additional wrap or two around the ferrule should help it seal against the female. I've had a couple stubborn ones that I used a dollop of seal-all on the ferrule before I turned the nut down. Sometimes the copper lines need to be adjusted slightly to ensure they are inserting plumb into the fittings.

 

[2broke2ride]

The ferrule that seats into the female fitting is either cockeyed or has been cranked down too much and is now not sealing. You could try twisting up some Teflon and wrapping behind the ferrule like the packing in a shutoff valve. It should take up some space and allow the compression nut to seat better and force the compression. An additional wrap or two around the ferrule should help it seal against the female. I've had a couple stubborn ones that I used a dollop of seal-all on the ferrule before I turned the nut down. Sometimes the copper lines need to be adjusted slightly to ensure they are inserting plumb into the fittings.

Thanks, I actually found an NOS line on Ebay for only $8 so I have it on the way.

 

[ML12]

Doesn't the 1050 use the idle fuel bypass line from the the carb mounting flange to the cylinder? I don't see one on this one.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

I don't know if the 1050 does, I think that might just be an XP1100 and XP1000/1020 thing. My 1100 has it and its really weird to tune.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

My 1050A has it.

 

[ML12]

I recently picked up a complete and running C51. It seemed low on compression so I tore it down to find that the ring locating pins had moved and put a very nice neat gouge in the cylinder wall. The rest of the saw is complete and there are no broken castings, so I'd like to get it going again.

Does anyone have a C5/C51/C52 piston/cylinder that they'd be interested in letting go of for a reasonable sum? Nothing much on ebay. I'm in no hurry to get it rebuilt.

 

[2broke2ride]

I recently picked up a complete and running C51. It seemed low on compression so I tore it down to find that the ring locating pins had moved and put a very nice neat gouge in the cylinder wall. The rest of the saw is complete and there are no broken castings, so I'd like to get it going again.

Does anyone have a C5/C51/C52 piston/cylinder that they'd be interested in letting go of for a reasonable sum? Nothing much on ebay. I'm in no hurry to get it rebuilt.

I have the remnants of a C52. Let me dig it out and see it if the piston and cylinder are any good.

 

[2broke2ride]

I have the remnants of a C52. Let me dig it out and see it if the piston and cylinder are any good.

I dragged it out, piston is decent with just discoloration and no real scoring and the rings move free. The cylinder, unfortunately, has one decent groove in the chrome you can see above the center transfer. The thing had a ton of carbon in the exhaust, I'm thinking that maybe what did it but I dont really know. The saw ran on prime when I got it.
It's up to you, if you want them you can have em for the cost of shipping.

 

[fossil]

I got the oiler working well by running some ATF through it but now I seem to have a pretty bad leak from this fitting. I tried tightening it to no avail. Anybody know the solution? I dont want to take it all apart and make a bad situation worse if I cant get needed parts.

Go easy tightening it up when you get the next one. It's a pretty common issue when the fitting is over tightened to crush the ferrule and have it leak.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I got the fuel line replaced and rebuilt the sdc carb on the super 1050 per suggested by members on the forum. It runs pretty strong I have a 22" hardnose bar thats a homelite but the .404 chain has definitely seen better days and I don't like to push a saw through the cut even if it will do it .
This thing is sort of a beast! I found a 32" stihl bar D025 (cheap) that I might adapt to the homelite. Also an (I suck) ,the saw already has the rim sprocket drum and I counted the rim drive twice , I believe it takes the regular ( 7 standard) rims.
I'll post some cutting videos when I get her sorted out.

 

[2broke2ride]

There is one of those for sale local to me on facebook marketplace. It's a real good price and I keep eying it, I just dont have the funds right now

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

There is one of those for sale local to me on facebook marketplace. It's a real good price and I keep eying it, I just dont have the funds right now

Tell me about it! If I didn't just score an epic deal I'd feel like I need some more saw fix,(CAD) but I'm seriously tapped out for the moment.
I certainly don't tell others how to do what they do but I'm quite pleased with the simplicity of this saw and its power an if I can barter work or stuff I often times make a deal.
I would buy this saw again given the chace.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Adapted a large husqvarna mount to the 1050 automatic, 36" bar with full skip mico chisel .404 , cant put the outer bar plate on or it pinches the chain. I'll have to make some custom plates for this bar combination.
Anyway THIS homelite seriously impressed me. It handles the bar and chain of this size no problem. I'll probably be on the look out for more of these saws in the future.