261 c-m running LEAN?

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I took little fussy gal 261 c-m out for a walk around the back yard today and she must have heard me grumbling, as to my surprise she decided to straighten up a bit, (likely out of fear of being sent to a much rougher home).

Pulled her over cold on 8 pulls with decomp pressed and normal medium pulls, NO drop snap required.
The saw purred nicely to me (probably trying to make up for being a biatch the last few days)

We sliced a 16" round of Maple with no issues. Turned her off and back on several times, starting up each time sometimes with 1 pull, other times on 2 pulls at max.

I started seeing her again for the pretty cute little tighty saw she is. Seems to need a little tough love, rather than too much tender caressing - hopefully she'll continue to get better and will soon become the wild whore she was really meant to be. :p

For now, this saw has earned a reprieve.
 
I took little fussy gal 261 c-m out for a walk around the back yard today and she must have heard me grumbling, as to my surprise she decided to straighten up a bit, (likely out of fear of being sent to a much rougher home).

Pulled her over cold on 8 pulls with decomp pressed and normal medium pulls, NO drop snap required.
The saw purred nicely to me (probably trying to make up for being a biatch the last few days)

We sliced a 16" round of Maple with no issues. Turned her off and back on several times, starting up each time sometimes with 1 pull, other times on 2 pulls at max.

I started seeing her again for the pretty cute little tighty saw she is. Seems to need a little tough love, rather than too much tender caressing - hopefully she'll continue to get better and will soon become the wild whore she was really meant to be. :p

For now, this saw has earned a reprieve.
As far as am aware you need to let the saw idle for ten seconds before
switching it off, so it will have time to save the current tune, it also
let’s the saw cool instead of become a heat sink.
 
As far as am aware you need to let the saw idle for ten seconds before
switching it off, so it will have time to save the current tune, it also
let’s the saw cool instead of become a heat sink.

Thanks for the reminders ... I was tough on the little gal today and she stood the test. I'll be nicer again soon once I'm sure she will not drive me to drink. ;)
 
Mine runs great on 40:1.
Mine too:cheers:.
It does have a purge bulb.
:happybanana:
I may ditch it for the 550xp with purge bulb.
:happybanana:
Was just thinking of you. I Was out noodling with mine to clean up some stuff from the GTG the other week. Glad to hear yours is up and going. I hadn't run mine since the gtg and it took 7 pulls to get it going. My old 026 is 6 or 7 pulls though.
:baba:
What did you end up buying to replace the 362.
550 :D.
I do the best I can not to run an AT or MT saw dry other than when I'm going to ship them. That being said I do that with all my saws.
As far as am aware you need to let the saw idle for ten seconds before
switching it off, so it will have time to save the current tune, it also
let’s the saw cool instead of become a heat sink.
The 261 is supposed to have a start setting so it doesn't effect it if you shut it off right away, but I think it's a good idea anyway. Another reason that an initial start setting would be beneficial is you run the saw in the summer or fall when it's in the 70's or 80's, then you go out tomorrow morning to run them and it's in the single or double digits, sure to give you a hard time with a lean mix if not for it.
 
Mine too:cheers:.

:happybanana:

:happybanana:

:baba:

550 :D.
I do the best I can not to run an AT or MT saw dry other than when I'm going to ship them. That being said I do that with all my saws.

The 261 is supposed to have a start setting so it doesn't effect it if you shut it off right away, but I think it's a good idea anyway. Another reason that an initial start setting would be beneficial is you run the saw in the summer or fall when it's in the 70's or 80's, then you go out tomorrow morning to run them and it's in the single or double digits, sure to give you a hard time with a lean mix if not for it.
I think it would be great if the saws refused to rev up for 30 seconds after
a cold start, to let them oil a bit, same with shut down, flick to stop triggers
a countdown to stop, of course an emergency stop should also be available,
we’re talking simple electronics to do any of this.
 
I think it would be great if the saws refused to rev up for 30 seconds after
a cold start, to let them oil a bit, same with shut down, flick to stop triggers
a countdown to stop, of course an emergency stop should also be available,
we’re talking simple electronics to do any of this.

I agree with this totally. Toyota has been doing this for years. Transmissions will shift early when cold to reduce engine rpm’s. After a minute or two everything works as normal.
 
Started cold, not drained, after 6 pulls today .... 50/1 goofy price Stihl pre-mix ... better, but should this be acceptable in 2019?

My local saw shop has zero oe 550xp's in stock now. Still don't want an extra pound on a 550 new edition. My 562xp starts cold and run dry on 4 or 5 pulls max, is only 12.8 lbs dry powerhead and has more balls than a stock 550xp. No reason to buy a 550xp that weighs 11.68 lbs.

Hey Chipper, if you never drain your new carb saws what mix are you running? I'm guessing your are not using an ethanol mix? The 261c-m manual says to drain and run dry if storing over 3 months. So far, my experience suggests Autotune is better dialed in than MTronic, at least on the 2 new saws I've run.
 
Started cold, not drained, after 6 pulls today .... 50/1 goofy price Stihl pre-mix ... better, but should this be acceptable in 2019?

My local saw shop has zero oe 550xp's in stock now. Still don't want an extra pound+ on a 550 new edition. My 562xp starts cold and run dry on 4 or 5 pulls max, is only 12.8 lbs dry powerhead and has more balls than a stock 550xp. No reason to buy a 550xp that weighs 11.8 or more (if memory serves).

Hey Chipper, if you never drain your new carb saws what mix are you running? I'm guessing your are not using an ethanol mix? The 261c-m manual says to drain and run dry if storing over 3 months. So far, my experience suggests Autotune is better dialed in than MTronic, at least on the 2 new saws I've run.
That sounds better than it was doing before.
I get not wanting the mk2 with the 562 being so close, that's why I skip the 562 and go right to the 70cc saws ;).
40:1 with maxima k2, but I've ran them on other mixes too. No ethanol! I've also been a proponent of leaving fuel in them(as long as it's ethanol free fuel), and starting them every month or two, and I have no problems with them.
I wouldn't say that the AT is more dialed in, I don't think either is necessarily better, and I've ran a good number of them.
 
Did you start right off using 40:1? Or did you use 50:1 during break in? My saw seems much happier on 50:1.

I *suspect* draining this saw after running it on 50:1, and then re-fueling it with 40:1 a few days later and doing a cold start, will wear out my shoulder again trying to get this thing running. This M-tronic seemed to not be able to calibrate a change in mix density during a cold start - it in effect threw a spazz fit.

Tell me I'm being paranoid :cold:and now that it has been re-set it can handle any mix changes.
 
Did you start right off using 40:1? Or did you use 50:1 during break in? My saw seems much happier on 50:1.

I *suspect* draining this saw after running it on 50:1, and then re-fueling it with 40:1 a few days later and doing a cold start, will wear out my shoulder again trying to get this thing running. This M-tronic seemed to not be able to calibrate a change in mix density during a cold start - it in effect had a spazz fit.
I ran them at 50:1, 45:1 and 40:1 before, never had a problem. If you think it's the mix ratio that's the problem then stick with the 50:1 for a bit, then see what happens changing it down the rd, besides the warranty is for 50:1 so just do it.
I don't see there being a problem draining it and then changing the mix ratio, if you run it dry and then change the ratio that may have an effect, but it shouldn't make it not start right away because you're using the choke for the initial startup.
 
Started cold, not drained, after 6 pulls today .... 50/1 goofy price Stihl pre-mix ... better, but should this be acceptable in 2019?

My local saw shop has zero oe 550xp's in stock now. Still don't want an extra pound on a 550 new edition. My 562xp starts cold and run dry on 4 or 5 pulls max, is only 12.8 lbs dry powerhead and has more balls than a stock 550xp. No reason to buy a 550xp that weighs 11.68 lbs.

Hey Chipper, if you never drain your new carb saws what mix are you running? I'm guessing your are not using an ethanol mix? The 261c-m manual says to drain and run dry if storing over 3 months. So far, my experience suggests Autotune is better dialed in than MTronic, at least on the 2 new saws I've run.
Am guessing all the pulls to start is a built in thing rather than a fault, there has got to be a starting sequence that will cover a lot of climatic change and whatever else it
calculates. As long as they run right is the main thing, I guess it's human nature to want to pull less at the cord.
Especially if one has bad joints.
 
Just went downstairs and gave the 261cm2 8 pulls for it to crank :rare2:, it's been a little over two months since it's been ran :D.
The 550 mk1 popped on the 3rd pull(mk2 is in the truck I'll try that later), it's been at least twice as long since it was run, as I ran the 346's quite a bit this year and the last two months the mk2.
Tell me I'm being paranoid :cold:and now that it has been re-set it can handle any mix changes.
Looks like you added this to your post above :rolleyes:.
I'd think it should be able too, but like I was saying they specify 50:1 so why not go with it. It takes a long time to break a saw in on 40:1 full synthetic too.
 
Then you better never buy a saw without a purge bulb. Even then, you asking for a lot. Not really practical expectations IMHO.
Well my Echos all fired after two pulls and started on the next two, no purge bulbs
on them, 501 sx , so practical it was, but in cold weather like I don’t cut in,
then maybe different.
 
Just went downstairs and gave the 261cm2 8 pulls for it to crank :rare2:, it's been a little over two months since it's been ran :D.
The 550 mk1 popped on the 3rd pull(mk2 is in the truck I'll try that later), it's been at least twice as long since it was run, as I ran the 346's quite a bit this year and the last two months the mk2.

Looks like you added this to your post above :rolleyes:.
I'd think it should be able too, but like I was saying they specify 50:1 so why not go with it. It takes a long time to break a saw in on 40:1 full synthetic too.

8 pulls - that's depressing! I'll be interested to hear how the MkII works out. I'll try some repeated cold drop pulls before the weekend to see if that shortens the process any. I'm guessing this saw needs some regular tough love due to its lack of purge bulb.
 
8 pulls - that's depressing! I'll be interested to hear how the MkII works out. I'll try some repeated cold drop pulls before the weekend to see if that shortens the process any. I'm guessing this saw needs some regular tough love due to its lack of purge bulb.
I never noticed it that much until I started counting because of this thread, it's only a 50cc saw and it has the decomp plugged too, but if you already have shoulder problems I get that. Maybe a 5101 or whichever the model is with easy start would be a better way to go.
I'll try starting the 261cm2 again tomorrow and see how it does. When I think about it I'll also give the mk2 a few pulls and see what happens.
 
I never noticed it that much until I started counting because of this thread, it's only a 50cc saw and it has the decomp plugged too, but if you already have shoulder problems I get that. Maybe a 5101 or whichever the model is with easy start would be a better way to go.
I'll try starting the 261cm2 again tomorrow and see how it does. When I think about it I'll also give the mk2 a few pulls and see what happens.

Ya the 5101 might be better but I hear it's pretty bulky for a 50cc. It's also too close in weight to my 562xp.

I pulled my shoulder out a few years back and it healed up pretty well where I completely forgot about it in the off season. On about the 20th pull on this 261 c-m, I should have switched to a left arm pull, but I didn't do it in time and starting to feel it tweaking again.

A sharp snap drop start might be the solution to reducing the number of repetition pulls on this saw. Drop start doesn't seem to aggravate it.

The more I start this 261 c-m, the more I like a purge bulb saw.
 
Ya the 5101 might be better but I hear it's pretty bulky for a 50cc. It's also too close in weight to my 562xp.

I pulled my shoulder out a few years back and it healed up pretty well where I completely forgot about it in the off season. On about the 20th pull on this 261 c-m, I should have switched to a left arm pull, but I didn't do it in time and starting to feel it tweaking again.

A sharp snap drop start might be the solution to reducing the number of repetition pulls on this saw. Drop start doesn't seem to aggravate it.

The more I start this 261 c-m, the more I like a purge bulb saw.
The 4300(if you don't already have one I can't remember) may be a better fit then, they pull a 16" lp setup pretty nice and they are easy to start and start quick.
The 261 popped and ran on the 4th pull today, 550 mk1 1st pull popped, ms291 that hasn't run in a while 5th pull, 4300 2nd, 4th pull on a mm7910 and it hasn't been ran in months.
Bulky as far as handling, and yes getting closer to the 562, but can you start the 562 no problem. Pretty sure theres an easy start 6100 also, while I prefer the handling of the 562 the 6100 is better than not being able to start a saw :D.
20th pull I would have been setting it aside for another saw and bringing it back to the dealer I got it from.
 
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