Jonsered Chainsaws

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All collector status prices....especially the Nordfeller set-up, although with a decent chainsaw it's not absolutely insane.....considering how many of these have we ever seen for sale?

If chainsawr Scott gets over a grand for that rough 111S, then our forum Scott really got screwed. I could only attribute that to the time of yr...pre-Xmas buying frenzy.

Eric, what have you heard about Scott @chainsawr....is he really selling and getting out of his business?
 
All collector status prices....especially the Nordfeller set-up, although with a decent chainsaw it's not absolutely insane.....considering how many of these have we ever seen for sale?

If chainsawr Scott gets over a grand for that rough 111S, then our forum Scott really got screwed. I could only attribute that to the time of yr...pre-Xmas buying frenzy.

Eric, what have you heard about Scott @chainsawr....is he really selling and getting out of his business?

Word on the street in Vermont is he has sold out and the business has moved, but not very far. I think I heard it is now in Wheelock, VT.
 
I know that Scott's business model did not support collectors calling him fishing for parts, then sending guys out to find the parts only to have the collectors not complete the sale.

Only way around that is to inventory everything in bins, I suspect. But....you gotta pay people to do that too. I have no idea how many saws he takes in for parts every week....if people just walk in there with saws, or he seeks out saws.

One of the more popular vendors (not Scott), had the cops investigating his business. According to the newspaper article about him, he was accepting stolen saws and parting them out. However, they couldn't take him down, so who knows.

Kevin
 
Well he went fairly far afield seeking saws it would seem. We have a rather old and very popular weekly sell and swap guide here.....mostly for Maine but does circulate NH, VT. Kinda like craigslist but in paper form originally, but are also online these days. It's called Uncle Henry's.....he used to run and regular add in the "Wanted" section for junk saws.
 
Jonsered 2094 versus Husky 2100;

As promised, I finally got a tach on these two saws....both with 36" .063 bars, .404 skip-tooth chisel chain.

Like I said, the 2094 is a screamer. Tachs in @13,540rpm unloaded. Now about the 2100....unloaded rpm is pretty variable depending on whether or not the Tilly's gov is plugged. Mine is plugged and tachs out @11,350+- unloaded. A lot of folks are running these old saws @12,000 and over....I think that's pretty foolish for these saws in the woods. What you guys do at GTG's is another matter.

I would suggest anyone runnin' a gov plugged 2100 to stay between 10,500-11,500.....probably the best sweet spot would be 11,000. Or just to be safe you could tune it down to 10,500 which is a number I see thrown around a lot in the literature. My opinion is that given a sound 2100 saw with no issues, the 2100 is quite happy @11,300+- with a good saw oil mix. We ran those saws 3/4 of a turn OUT on HI (no portable chainsaw tachs in those days) with muffler mods. They're thirsty by nature and so porting them heavy would make them ridiculously thirsty.

I'm going back out......I'll see if I can snap some pics of the saws with the tach on them.

Kevin
 
OK, here are some tach pics. First one is the 2094....ignore the bottom number, as they are idle or fast idle numbers. The saw is not holding idle very well, I need to kit it I suspect. And so the unloaded top end varies a bit more than it should. Not an air leak but a Tilly issue.....recognize the symptoms.
Tach 2094.jpg


This is a good number for a well maintained 2100/2101 as long as it's plunged into wood all day. If you're doing a lot of limbing, cutting short pieces and revving your saw, I would suggest 10,500rpm.
Tach 2100.jpg


This is a pretty respectable number for a old working 80. It sounds a tad fat, but it's revving in the air a lot....and it's OLD......lol! If I had to guess, I'd say I was probably working it in the woods around 9,800+rpm unloaded back in the day :cheers: 28”, 058 bar, .404 skip-tooth chisel.
Tach 80.jpg

Kevin
 
OK so an addendum.

Tim was surprised that the 80 tach figures were under 10,000. I figured I had the saw runnin' fat. Cleaned the airbox and filter and got this unloaded:
Newer 80 tach figures.jpg

That's with the Tilly 1 turn OUT on HI. Moving the adjustment to 3/4 turn OUT on HIGH gave me 11,300rpm. Tim was right.....the old tach number was too low for a decent 80, And when loggin' I ran this saw always @3/4 turn OUT on HI, so I was always over 11, 000rpm going by this tach. My old ears tell me that @3/4 turn OUT it sounds the way it used to.

I know this about the 80; if the rpm's seemed to drop or the saw sounds like it's runnin' fat....and/or the idle drops so you have to increase it, CHECK your airbox/filter! And this may be more of a problem with the flocked filters (that's all I run), than it is with those crappy copper mesh filters. Working all day, I used to change these filters out at lunch.

Since I don't use these saws all the time anymore, I'm getting foggy on when I checked things last like the airbox/filter. So I'm gonna check better before each use! I do that always with the Husky and the 2094, but the 80 got slighted this time around.:dizzy::dizzy:

Kevin
 
Lean is mean, but fat is where it's at.......



Sorry...........................................

Lol.....maybe, but with high quality oil mix and no air leaks, even most of the older J’reds can give out respectable rpm #’s.

Even though I tend to run on the edge, notice I recommend lowers #’s than I use. Don’t be blowin’ up your old saws and blaming this ol’ dawg....lol!

Kevin
 

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