What bar for the picco kit? I don't see any 18" bars in picco in the Bailey's catalogue for Stihl.Not my video Steve, but this video is the reason i bought the 261 Picco kit but then got the 241 so never used it.
What bar for the picco kit? I don't see any 18" bars in picco in the Bailey's catalogue for Stihl.Not my video Steve, but this video is the reason i bought the 261 Picco kit but then got the 241 so never used it.
The Picco bar in the kit is 16”. I’m not sure if you can even get an 18” Picco bar anymore.What bar for the picco kit? I don't see any 18" bars in picco in the Bailey's catalogue for Stihl.
Oh...right, I had that backwards. Larger sprocket would increase chain speed at the cost of torque.No, larger drive sprocket always results in a torque decrease. Think of it like changing the front chain sprocket on a mountain bike...when you increase the size, it becomes harder to pedal.
I think I saw an 18" picco for hooskies in the Bailey's catalogue . Nothing for Stihl.The Picco bar in the kit is 16”. I’m not sure if you can even get an 18” Picco bar anymore.
Yes if you listen to the vids you can here the RPM's drop a lot using 3/8 vs .325 x 7. If you're using a 16" bar it might not affect the saw. But I bet it that factor would worsen with an 18" bar. Another good test would be to compare the oregon .325 narrow kerf used to be VP/VPX on a longer bar. I know Stihl guys might not want to see an Oregon speed cut bar on their saws but this combo works great and you don't have to switch sprockets. I like .325 because some of the logs are too big and heavy to lift into the truck. So you can slap on the narrow kerf and rip them in down much easier.Oh...right, I had that backwards. Larger sprocket would increase chain speed at the cost of torque.
@outdoortype mentioned RMPs dropping. In the cut, I assume? Combination of wider kerf and less torque delivered to the chain?
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