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Got lucky and snagged this one on Friday night. 700D. Has ok compression, and surprisingly, good strong spark (I was expecting the coil to be totally shot, like they usually are). The fuel and oil tanks are spotless inside, it has most of its paint (3 different shades of the same yellow) and only 2 cracked ribs on the starter cover too! It also has pioneer branded chain, and a bar from a much earlier IEL saw.

View attachment 810045View attachment 810048View attachment 810050View attachment 810051
Lots of carbon in the exhaust and the top ring doesn't look quite right..... so i'll order some new rings and seals before I try and start it. I can't remember if the cases have to be split to do seals on these or not. It may get the full restoration treatment, but I've got another couple saws that need a lot of work first.
That looks pretty nice. I was waiting for someone ahead of me on that, now I know who. Hahaha
Good score.
FYI, I need some cases for a 750 if you run across any.
 
Got lucky and snagged this one on Friday night. 700D. Has ok compression, and surprisingly, good strong spark (I was expecting the coil to be totally shot, like they usually are). The fuel and oil tanks are spotless inside, it has most of its paint (3 different shades of the same yellow) and only 2 cracked ribs on the starter cover too! It also has pioneer branded chain, and a bar from a much earlier IEL saw.

View attachment 810045View attachment 810048View attachment 810050View attachment 810051
Lots of carbon in the exhaust and the top ring doesn't look quite right..... so i'll order some new rings and seals before I try and start it. I can't remember if the cases have to be split to do seals on these or not. It may get the full restoration treatment, but I've got another couple saws that need a lot of work first.

No need to split the case to do seals on this saw.

Chris B.
 
Ok fellas I’ve been messing around with this p42 for a month now it will start and run then shortly die unexpected at one point I had it idiling and cutting decent. Been thru the carb many times the only way I can get it to run right is with the high and low jets out like 3 to4 turns and it doesn’t seem to respond to any adjustment other then it will run with high and low out way to far. I’m not sure what to try next I ordered another rebuild kit for carb it’s a sdc53 maybe I didn’t get the right kit to begin with. So I got fuel spark and compression but just can’t seem to get carb right. I mean could the carb just b plain wore out. Any help appreciated or anything stupid I’m overlooking when it ran it ran extremely well so I’m not ready to give in yet. Would like to make it my big tree saw.
 
Ok fellas I’ve been messing around with this p42 for a month now it will start and run then shortly die unexpected at one point I had it idiling and cutting decent. Been thru the carb many times the only way I can get it to run right is with the high and low jets out like 3 to4 turns and it doesn’t seem to respond to any adjustment other then it will run with high and low out way to far. I’m not sure what to try next I ordered another rebuild kit for carb it’s a sdc53 maybe I didn’t get the right kit to begin with. So I got fuel spark and compression but just can’t seem to get carb right. I mean could the carb just b plain wore out. Any help appreciated or anything stupid I’m overlooking when it ran it ran extremely well so I’m not ready to give in yet. Would like to make it my big tree saw.

Did you replace the fuel lines and filter in the fuel tank? It is possible that the fuel line could be collapsing from deterioration or the fuel filter could be partialy plugged from stuff that was in the tank.

Ken
 
Ok fellas I’ve been messing around with this p42 for a month now it will start and run then shortly die unexpected at one point I had it idiling and cutting decent. Been thru the carb many times the only way I can get it to run right is with the high and low jets out like 3 to4 turns and it doesn’t seem to respond to any adjustment other then it will run with high and low out way to far. I’m not sure what to try next I ordered another rebuild kit for carb it’s a sdc53 maybe I didn’t get the right kit to begin with. So I got fuel spark and compression but just can’t seem to get carb right. I mean could the carb just b plain wore out. Any help appreciated or anything stupid I’m overlooking when it ran it ran extremely well so I’m not ready to give in yet. Would like to make it my big tree saw.
Did u use the original gasket between the carb and Reed block where the impulse is? The one in kit isn't right and doesn't cover it
 
Did u use the original gasket between the carb and Reed block where the impulse is? The one in kit isn't right and doesn't cover it


Svlmustang, May have your answer!

He is right, the gasket needed, I made for my saw because of the impulse slot that needs to be sealed is wide and long. Your saw may be running on venturie suction only and the fuel pump side of your carb may not be pumping . If this is the case the open impulse pass way is also acting like a crankcase air leak.

Ken
 
Thanks I’ll try anything at this point I ordered another kit for carb to but don’t have a lot of hope. Another thing how does the recoil decomp work I can’t seem to wrap my head around it.
 
Did u use the original gasket between the carb and Reed block where the impulse is? The one in kit isn't right and doesn't cover it

lt sounds to me like you have a air leak some were. the air should only enter thru carb were it can be regulated by the high & low speed screws. Be careful you do not score the cyl & rings if you continue to run saw. l would do a Pressure /vac test. determine were air leak is.
My thoughts.
Good luck
 
lt sounds to me like you have a air leak some were. the air should only enter thru carb were it can be regulated by the high & low speed screws. Be careful you do not score the cyl & rings if you continue to run saw. l would do a Pressure /vac test. determine were air leak is.
My thoughts.
Good luck

Terminology is important!

The high and low speed screws (NEEDLES) regulate the fuel not the air. The throttle butterfly regulates the air flow.

Ken
 
Thanks Ken, l should have paid more attention to what l was thinking.

All is Good.
I didn't mean to be harsh, but when trying to teach, help someone figure out a problem it is important.

Old pardner,

Here is a photo of a "standard" carb kit gasket centered with carb bolts on a new reed block. Notice the large area of the impulse slot that is open and not sealed. Just as SVLmustang, wrote, the standard gasket won't seal between the carb and reed block.

Check the gasket that you are using to see if it seals that slot.

I made my own gasket because of the width needed to seal that impulse transfer slot..

KenScreenshot_2020-03-29-16-21-09.png
 
Thanks I’ll try anything at this point I ordered another kit for carb to but don’t have a lot of hope. Another thing how does the recoil decomp work I can’t seem to wrap my head around it.
No recoil or push decomp on a P41 / P42. If you have Farmsaw , they have one as do some other Pioneers.
 
Old Pardner, your P28 has the recoil activated decompression, pull the recoil off your P28 and pull the rope. If you do that, you will see how the ecentric of the recoil engagemnt gear moves and also pivots a wire linkage that pushes in on the spring loaded decompressor on your P28 chainsaw.

As Fossil has said there is no decomp on standard P41 and P42 series of chainsaws.
 
My 750 Picture, is a non runner now but solid and complete. lt is a good candidate for restoration in future.
What is the deal with the odd additional airfilter on the top of the handle assembly on that 750?

Side note - I tore into the 700 I just bought to find that the top ring had, at some point, broken and the saw had continued to run for what looks like a long while. took some chunks out of the ring lands, but didn't damage the cylinder at all. I'll have to clean up the piston and inspect it thoroughly, but I will probably just buy a new ring and run it.

No sign of some of the ring pieces, so i'll be splitting the cases to do bearings incase some pieces wound up down there.

Also, the transfers are tiny compared to the later 1750 I have.
 
What is the deal with the odd additional airfilter on the top of the handle assembly on that 750?

Side note - I tore into the 700 I just bought to find that the top ring had, at some point, broken and the saw had continued to run for what looks like a long while. took some chunks out of the ring lands, but didn't damage the cylinder at all. I'll have to clean up the piston and inspect it thoroughly, but I will probably just buy a new ring and run it.

No sign of some of the ring pieces, so i'll be splitting the cases to do bearings incase some pieces wound up down there.

Also, the transfers are tiny compared to the later 1750 I have.

Their was availiable 3 types of Air cleaner assys, Your looking at the air filter screen , the air intake is from top of filter body.
Other 2 assys not shown draws air intake at back of filter body
 
Also, the transfers are tiny compared to the later 1750 I have.

Yes, the 700 is quite choked down that way. The 750 has larger, drilled transfers. My 1850 has those same drilled transfers but 2 pairs of those are hogged out and connected to make a much larger transfer. At this point, the piston rings became pinned instead of floating. I believe some of the exhaust port bridges were removed as well.
 
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