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- Jul 19, 2019
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It looked pretty clean to me
Yep- that is why I asked for photos- I have never seen it before you added that photo of the cylinder.
It looked pretty clean to me
It had plenty of power and idled down fine.It does look like a lean issue though, it got too hot there. But there is alot of marks around the cylinder by the looks of it
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It was in specpiston-to-cylinder clearance too tight?
They normally do have lots of power when they run lean up top as long as they don't lean out such as from a seal or boot leak where the leak gets worse with speed/load. Idle is affected by the idle circuit...so you had a good idle tune and probably no leaks...but the high side was a bit leanIt had plenty of power and idled down fine.
Well the person assembling it (me) was/is imperfect...Hmmmm. It was running perfectly, everything was perfectly perfect, carb settings were normal, all the bolts were tight, gaskets and seals good and everything was just perfect and then that happened. No.
Watch "Stihl 028 t2" on YouTubeThey normally do have lots of power when they run lean up top as long as they don't lean out such as from a seal or boot leak where the leak gets worse with speed/load. Idle is affected by the idle circuit...so you had a good idle tune and probably no leaks...but the high side was a bit lean
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Watch "Stihl 028 t2" on YouTube
Heres the saw running after my first rebuild.
I cleaned after each use. I visualy inspected the crank, looked ok as far as i could tell.it just seems like a lean seize.
either lack of lubrication, excessive heat built up due to other means (but I'm doubting the saw was so caked in grime since you rebuilt it that it over-heated that way, unless the flywheel fins were also totally caked closed but again I'm assuming you cleaned the saw), or excessive air intrusion causing a very lean mixture at full song
oh, was the crank/rod checked when it first came apart? slight bent rod causing undue stress on the exhaust side?
I probably should have, eh?Nope
I cleaned after each use. I visualy inspected the crank, looked ok as far as i could tell.
Carb rebuild, new gas/impulse lines, fuel filter, gear for oil pump, chain guards, drive sprocket and needle bearing, piston and rings, everything was oem excepting rings and pistons.Yeah, na. Im not reading through 11 pages to see what you did or did not do, be easier for you to narrow it down to a list of parts replaced and if they were OEM or AM.
If it had a heap of hours on it before you dropped a new top on it only- without any other expendable items being replaced- then something designed to keep air out might have failed since your new top end was fitted.
A year earlier i did replace the coil as wellCarb rebuild, new gas/impulse lines, fuel filter, gear for oil pump, chain guards, drive sprocket and needle bearing, piston and rings, everything was oem excepting rings and pistons.
I didnt know that about a too tight chainNot that you can tell a whole lot from a 20 second video- but for my ear, it sounded a bit boggy shifting from idle and ramping up to wide open throttle- which is not exactly a bad thing with a fresh rebuild tuned a bit rich low. But for what little we see at WOT, it might have been a bit lean- seemed to be high in the RPM stakes- but that is just guessing.
Did however sound like the chain was plenty tight- might be the case, or it might just be the way the recording device picked up the sound, but an over tight chain is a good way to flog out a PTO side oil seal and lead to a lean condition failure.
Carb rebuild, new gas/impulse lines, fuel filter, gear for oil pump, chain guards, drive sprocket and needle bearing, piston and rings, everything was oem excepting rings and pistons.
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