McCulloch Chain Saws

[Maintenance supervisor]

I have been relatively lucky with the crank seals on my Mccullochs, but as I expand into other saws I do more and more cranks seals as part of the initial prep.
Out of a dozen macs 3 might need seals , Poulans on the other hand ,flip that number.
Installing new seals isn't bad if you can get oem or actual part numbers for replacement seals. I've got bad advice from forums on seal equivalents that never fit correctly and b¡tch up the bore so I always go the more expensive route but if I'm wanting to actually use the saw it's worth it.

 

[edju1958]

I've never done a crank seal,so I know nothing about replacing them.I did pull 2 out of a Hopmelite C5 that was a trashed saw (seized).I've priced seals & they run from $8 - $15 ea.Now if I screw them up,which I'm sure I will, I'm out $30.I don't have money to throw away like that.It's not like learning to do points where if I screw them up I don't have to go out & buy another set.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I've never done a crank seal,so I know nothing about replacing them.I did pull 2 out of a Hopmelite C5 that was a trashed saw (seized).I've priced seals & they run from $8 - $15 ea.Now if I screw them up,which I'm sure I will, I'm out $30.I don't have money to throw away like that.It's not like learning to do points where if I screw them up I don't have to go out & buy another set.

That is true screwing them up does become painful $$$, but just like most saw related things I learned some good tips about getting it right on here.
Also if you have a bearing supply store near you ,take the old set in and they might have a cheaper option to learn on/with. I like to see the replacement before I buy it ,and I trust bearing and seal experts .

 

[edju1958]

I do have a bearing supply house about 25 mi.away.I don't make a special run to go there because I must pay someone to take me (another added expense),so I wait till I'm in the area.Does anyone know the aftermarket seals for a 10-10?

 

[ML12]

This is the info I've got from the seal and bearing document from arboristsite a few years ago.


Mac 10-series. CHECK IPL for different bearings and seals for some models. PM10-10S, 1-10, and some others.

-F/W seal: 61618. Most saws. National 471551.

-F/W seal: 67906. PM10-10S and a few others. Aftermarket?

-PTO seal: 110260. SKF 6119 double lip or SKF 6120 single lip. Poulan 530019097. National 253747.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

This is the info I've got from the seal and bearing document from arboristsite a few years ago.


Mac 10-series. CHECK IPL for different bearings and seals for some models. PM10-10S, 1-10, and some others.

-F/W seal: 61618. Most saws. National 471551.

-F/W seal: 67906. PM10-10S and a few others. Aftermarket?

-PTO seal: 110260. SKF 6119 double lip or SKF 6120 single lip. Poulan 530019097. National 253747.

That skf6119 , thats one if you ever tried to squeeze into a poulan fights you , I'd trust the poulan.

 

[ML12]

That skf6119 , thats one if you ever tried to squeeze into a poulan fights you , I'd trust the poulan.

I've put a couple 6119s into the 10 series macs and it wasn't too bad.

 

[edju1958]

I'm fairly sure I've got seals for a 2-10,which are pretty much the same seal & I have a couple 6119 seals too.I bought them,but never had the balls to try to put them in.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

That skf6119 , thats one if you ever tried to squeeze into a poulan fights you.. ,

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/posts/4714910/

 

[2broke2ride]

Honestly, the easiest way to do seals on these Macs if you've never done it before is to just totally disassemble them. It isn't that hard and gives a good opportunity to clean all the crap that accumulates between the fuel tank and the engine.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

 

[edju1958]

I've already cleaned between the tank handle & the rest of the saw when I changed out the tank handle,ain't going through that again.I'll just end up pulling it down & screwing the seal up & then get pissed & throw the saw against the wall.Or I can save myself all the aggravation & pay someone $50 to do it.I think I have at least 20 saws that need seal,maybe more.

 

[ML12]

I made a set of taper rings that slip over the crank shaft steps for doing the seals on the 10 series saws. I can honestly say that they are probably some of the easier seals I've ever put in a saw. Didn't even disassemble the SP81 when I did it, just popped the clutch and flywheel/ignition off and did it that way.

 

[edju1958]

I made a set of taper rings that slip over the crank shaft steps for doing the seals on the 10 series saws. I can honestly say that they are probably some of the easier seals I've ever put in a saw. Didn't even disassemble the SP81 when I did it, just popped the clutch and flywheel/ignition off and did it that way.

Do you have a pic of the taper rings?If I see a pic I might be able to make a set for myself & see how it works.

 

[ML12]

Not my photos, but the idea is the same.
Pretty simple, makes it a lot easier to install the seals on the clutch side.

 

[Brian Thacker]

I just cut a pop can into a ring that I slip over the shaft, up against the bearing and just slide them over it. Works like a charm. Back in my drinking days it gave me a excuse to have another beer.

Brian

 

[edju1958]

I just cut a pop can into a ring that I slip over the shaft, up against the bearing and just slide them over it. Works like a charm. Back in my drinking days it gave me a excuse to have another beer.

Brian

I read about a guy doing that on FB McCulloch N.A.& I was thinking of doing that.

 

[edju1958]

I didn't have very good luck today with the 10-10's.I pulled the carb opff the 10-10 with bad seals & put it on another 10-10 I had laying around for a while & found that the manual oiler doesn't work.I went & got another 10-10 & that oiler was plugged a bit,but got it working,but found it had no spark.I ran out of 10-10's.I did consider getting out my 2-10's,but ran out of time.I guess I don't know when to give up.In the pic there's a file sticking in what looks like a clip of some sort.This is in what appears to be the oil hole & it looks factory to me.If I lay the saw on it's side oil will run right out of it,but the pump plunger won't pump any oil.

 

[fossil]

Looks familiar. It's a cotter pin.
At least they put the tank vent where the oil will go to good use if there's a bar and chain on it.
My 2-10A

 

[edju1958]

So I can only cut with the saw on it's side then.Great for felling smaller trees.

 

[heimannm]

The cotter pin just takes up some space in the hole to minimize the oil that leaks out. I think they went that route on older saws assuming there would be enough movement to keep the hole from getting plugged with sawdust, etc. Otherwise, a much smaller hole would have been sufficient. On later saws they tried to put a vent in the oil cap, you can usually tell those saws since there is normally a small trickle of oil coming out of the vent hole.

On another note:

I tried to get photos inside the fuel tank of a Power Mac 6. The fuel filter is a large felt wick about 1/2" thick x 3" wide x 8" long. The fuel line presses through the wick/filter and a nipple sticks through the side of the fuel tank and simply presses against the fuel inlet on the carburetor. I can attest to the fact that getting a new filter into the tank through the relatively small opening is a challenge.

Here you can make out the fuel line where it presses into/through the side of the fuel tank.



There are actually two flanges on the fuel line, one on either side of the filter/wick and an opening in between to allow the fuel to flow through.



If you squint just right you can see both ends of the fuel line in the photo below.



Mark