Remington Chainsaws(including Mall chainsaws)
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Dave86
ArboristSite Operative
I have a Pioneer roller tip like that one . I want to repaint the bar. Would you be so kind at to provide some good pics of it? Better yet, perhaps you could submit it to Sugar Creek per their instructions so that they can make a stencil.
None of the Remington guide bars were painted that I’ve observed.
All have been roll engraved.
Some were gun blued very lightly.
All have been roll engraved.
Some were gun blued very lightly.
Dave86
ArboristSite Operative
That is true regarding Remington bars. I was referring to the Pioneer bar in the pic.
Looking for Remington Super 770, Super 880 and Super 880g ipls for members.
Well guys,I just got 2 more SL9s going again.The 1st one I bought on eBay for $55 & got another nice looking short block with it.I had to put a different recoil on it because the recoil that came on the saw was missing the brake spring.I'm going to try a brake spring from a Homelite C series saw to see if it'll work.The needle bearings in the sprocket were mucked up a bit,a few were missing & they chewerd up the race.I put a new sprocket on with a bronze race that I bought back in the summer.I put it together & the saw would flood the air box after I shut it off.I pulled the carb & found the metering diaphragm was stuck to the cover.I peeled it loose,put it back together & the saw runs fine.I also had to put a new switch wire in it as it was missing.
Saw #2 was a bit more involved.I had to clean the points & put a new condenser in & went to put the flywheel on & found the Woodruff key was missing.I put a key in from a Homelite SEZ & it fit fine.Pulled it over a few times & had spark,then no spark.The new condenser crapped out on me,so I put the old one back in & had great spark.This saw was missing the thrust washer & the sprocket.A thrust washer from an SEZ works good & a new sprocket.I had to source a clutch cover for this saw & pull the carb for a rebuild.That carb gave me quite a bit of trouble,but finally got it running nice today.This saw was al;so missing the fuel cap,one is on the way.All I have left to do is put a new switch wire on it & it's finished.
Saw #2 was a bit more involved.I had to clean the points & put a new condenser in & went to put the flywheel on & found the Woodruff key was missing.I put a key in from a Homelite SEZ & it fit fine.Pulled it over a few times & had spark,then no spark.The new condenser crapped out on me,so I put the old one back in & had great spark.This saw was missing the thrust washer & the sprocket.A thrust washer from an SEZ works good & a new sprocket.I had to source a clutch cover for this saw & pull the carb for a rebuild.That carb gave me quite a bit of trouble,but finally got it running nice today.This saw was al;so missing the fuel cap,one is on the way.All I have left to do is put a new switch wire on it & it's finished.
Giving you a heads up on another Homelite part to the rescue of another Remington saw.If you didn't already know this - a Homelite C series saw with the Fairbanks Morse starter,the brake spring swaps right over into the SL9 starter.I haven't had the chance to check to see if the pawl assembly fits or not.
I just picked up 2 non running SL4As over the weekend,one for $37 & the other for $40.Both saws are complete,but will need work to get them running again.Unfortunately they have the crappy auto oilers that Remington used.Most likely I'll block them off & turn them into manual only oilers.
I also picked up 2 more SL9s for $28 each.One is a manual only oiler the other is an SL9A.
I also picked up 2 more SL9s for $28 each.One is a manual only oiler the other is an SL9A.
Does anyone know of a recoil spring that can be substituted for the 60817A used in the SL4 saws?The pull rope was hanging out on the SL4 I got today so I tried to rewind it,but when I pulled on the rope it went right back to where it was when I started.I haven't pulled it apart yet,but it's got to be either the spring or the pulley.
Ray: Shoot me a PM with your address. I’ll get to Office Depot and make copies of the 770, 880 & 880G.
Thank You. Several members will be very happy.
Be more than happy to digitize them for you, Carl. I did a bunch of old hard copy Stihl 050 ~ 076 and 045/056 manuals loaned to me by Definitive Dave a few years ago. (Think I may have even sent you the 056 material?)
Instead of using a scanner I took hi-res pics and converted the .jpg's into PDF's for merging into manual type PDF format. Ray has copies and can vouch for the quality, though the file sizes are admittedly a little large for his distribution operation.
My IP limits the file size I can send via email. Rat bastids!
So, I gave up scanning and just mail copies of what I have.
Some day I’d like a clear copy of the 990. What I have is fuzzy and distorted. [emoji53]
So, I gave up scanning and just mail copies of what I have.
Some day I’d like a clear copy of the 990. What I have is fuzzy and distorted. [emoji53]
Dave86
ArboristSite Operative
OK,here's an uodate on the SL4A - the recoil spring was broken,I'm still trying to find a replacement.Meanwhile I took the recoil off my PL4 & put on the SL4 & found it had no spark.I pulled the points which were black & the condenser was so corroded that I couldn't read the #s till after I polished it up with emery cloth.I put everything together & just by turning the flywheel by hand it produced spark.I put the recoil from the PL4 back on,put some fuel in it & after a prime it took off running.It needed some carb adjustments as the low was only set at 1/2 turn out.The saw is a great running saw,but.....
Here's the problem - neither one of the oilers works.When I first had the saw running it smoked like crazy which told me is was sucking bar oil.I took the oil cap off & oil poured out.The seller had never drained the oil for shipping.Anyway,when I push the manual oil plunger down there's little to no resistance.I don't know much of anything when it comes to these pressurized oilers.Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Here's the problem - neither one of the oilers works.When I first had the saw running it smoked like crazy which told me is was sucking bar oil.I took the oil cap off & oil poured out.The seller had never drained the oil for shipping.Anyway,when I push the manual oil plunger down there's little to no resistance.I don't know much of anything when it comes to these pressurized oilers.Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Got them late last night. Thank You!!! Hope to scan them in the next few days.
Scanned the ipls.
What are the chances of someone telling me why neither one of the oilers works on my SL4A?
Dave86
ArboristSite Operative
Thank you
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