McCulloch Chain Saws

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Its a big 3d puzzle. One piece ata time. Take lts of notes and pictures. Separate each piece and its bolts for future reference. The hardest part will be finding all the little bolts holding it together. Most are 5/16 heads. The 4 tiny 1/4 head bolts around the oil tank can be a pain. They like to round off. You can do it.
 
Hi guys, it's not looking good for my PM700 frankensaw :(
I finally got around to pulling the muffler and carb last night (lots of lockplates!), and the piston looks terrible, I can't even discern rings!
It has deep scratches down its length.

Piston through exhaust port:
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From what I've been able to see through the ports, the cylinder is also quite scratched up, but not as bad as the piston.
I'm planning to tear it down all the way to check the cylinder situation; I've never done this, but suppose it's an opportunity to learn something at least.
Yup, she's done. PM 700 is a chrome lined cylinder and Mac is not known for good quality chrome meaning cylinder is likely toast too. You can have the rechromed which is easy but not cheap (US Chrome) or find a good used or NOS cylinder which is likely cheaper but not as easy. Welcome to the world of old saws lol.
My first call would be to Bob Johnson in NY, he may be able to help you out. Someone else here will be able to set you up with his number.

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Thanks guys, I'm not in the US though, so might be tricky.
I'll get started on the disassembly first (I've got a Mc workshop manual for older 10 series, hope it will help with finding all those little bolts Vinny, but I'll probably be around again soon to ask :)), and try to determine the cylinder condition. I'll for sure be asking about this and will post pics.

I understand that the piston is gone for sure, and I'm just curious, what are the piston options for these 70cc saws?
Is it a case of looking for NOS parts, or is someone making replacements?
 
The only aftermarket I know of is Lil Red Barn. Their quality has been questioned, the supplied wrist pin is undersized and will ruin the saw if you use it and they don't come with pin bearings. That being said, I am trying one in an SP81. I will see how it goes lol. I reused the original pin and bearings and had to slightly clearance the skirt because it was hitting the crank throw.
NOS are out there, at least here in the states.

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Ive used a lrb piston in my sp70. I ordered it from bob and it was a lrb piston he senr. It works just fine. Yes i reused the wrist pin. Bob did supply bearings. But the pm700 and sp70 saws use the same piston. Bob generally sells pistons for 60.00 us. They are on ebay as well. Lrb pistons and a couple 70cc mac nos pistons. Your choices.
 
Hey guys, this project has come a long ways. From a pile of parts - most with defects, a SP125 motor that was in a Kart and sheared the clutch key, and parts from Earlton, NY to Port Hardy, British Columbia, and everywhere in between, even IOWA!!!!! Here you go:
 

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One super cool thing about the bar is that it was originally a hard nose Mac bar. Someone spliced the Oregon roller nose on, and did a great job of it. It's very faint because I polished up the bar and clear coated it but you can see the weld in a V-pattern. Courtesy of glennerdog on ebay, Newport, Oregon.
 

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Today was splitter day again 20210123_111332.jpg

And for 14US..
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A fairly beat 7-10
Feels pretty warn out but does run and maybe has a good cylinder. A heap of other goodness if not.

And some kind of something lol. Hmmm a mac guessing game. I dunno its 54cc it's got the weird old universal joint needles its got the older DSP setup and I believe was right hand pull.

3-10dsp?? Its the newer type top on it

Anyway its got some handy bits too I need like the tank handle for my 2-10 to make SDC or something I dunno probably throw it underneath the bench to be piliged :)

The 7-10 has no tag (as usual) but is points ignition and feels like 7-10 weight.

I've had a few macs from this guy he always rings me he also has a really peachy 700 like Really nice and 50nz lol so 35 for you chaps but... Ive left it for my good buddy who has a 700 and 10-10. I got two and 1 is a cream puff. His is tired and he needs more so there's my reasons for passing up a dam fine yellow saw :)
 

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One super cool thing about the bar is that it was originally a hard nose Mac bar. Someone spliced the Oregon roller nose on, and did a great job of it. It's very faint because I polished up the bar and clear coated it but you can see the weld in a V-pattern. Courtesy of glennerdog on ebay, Newport, Oregon.

Very cool! I've bought from that guy several times and it's always turned out well. Now if I can just get my MIG skills up to that level...

I actually have a roller nose now with a cracked rail waiting for me to attempt to weld it, but as AvE says: a grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't! :D
 
You need to get that saw dirty Eric.

Mark
I plan on it when it warms up!! Cutting frozen wood with full chisel chain sucks. Then we can see if my crank repair will hold. I basically welded up the keyway and ground and filed it smooth. Ran the clutch nut down with an impact and hope she holds!!
 
As much as I loathe FB, I might have to start hanging out on marketplace. Getting much better responses there than from craigslist or (former) LetGo, and there's some interesting stuff floating around, even if they can't spell it correctly...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/209471367437714/
Market place needs some kind of rating system. I've heard horror stories about sellers disappearing after the get the money and ship nothing.
I've bought 4 saws there in the last few months. A XL-12 for $30. Good saw. A 10-10S for $150 that needed a carb kit. Two Homelite 300's. One as parts and the other need a intake boot.
All were local except one that was 3 hours away, but I had a cousin that lived there and he got it for me.
I've bought nothing off of Craigslist.
GL
 
Good job, Kevin.

This is off topic, but I'm sorta shopping for a cheapie bearing separator for removing bearings from cranks. No shop press or anything more heavy duty involved than maybe a basic puller. Nothing fancy or very large is needed and I'm hoping to find something that'll pull a good bearing without doing any damage or putting excessive stress on the inner race during removal. Any tips or guidance will be greatly appreciated. TIA.
 
Good job, Kevin.

This is off topic, but I'm sorta shopping for a cheapie bearing separator for removing bearings from cranks. No shop press or anything more heavy duty involved than maybe a basic puller. Nothing fancy or very large is needed and I'm hoping to find something that'll pull a good bearing without doing any damage or putting excessive stress on the inner race during removal. Any tips or guidance will be greatly appreciated. TIA.
I just use a flywheel puller, it’ll split cases, pull bearings, and do just about anything else I ask it to.
 
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