Best grinder

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Y’all just don’t know how nice it is to ask questions and chat bout chainsaws and such with other folks who know something about the subject. I started cutting timber with my gramps at the age of 14. He retired when I was 18 and wanted me to take over his logging business. I was stupid and went to work at the local sawmill as a lumber grader. Have been in metal fabrication since age 22 but still my favorite thing to do is operate a well cutting chainsaw. Having a wood boiler gives me much saw time. I also do some tree work for the free wood. Very few loggers left around upstate S.C. Anymore. The ones that are left are not that saw savvy with all the modern felling equipment they have now. It’s got so bad that around here the people who have even seen a chain saw think that the longer the bar the faster it cuts. Yes you heard me right. I just call them Yankee flat lander people. I’ve always said a man ain’t no kind of man if he ain’t got land and can run a chain saw. Y’all keep up the good conversation as I really enjoy it.
Well now, lets not get me started on long bars vs short bars....

But I will say a big power head and a long bar will save time and energy over a short bar in the same wood.

A long bar on a small-medium power head is just a great way to ruin a clutch.
 
Well now, lets not get me started on long bars vs short bars....

But I will say a big power head and a long bar will save time and energy over a short bar in the same wood.

A long bar on a small-medium power head is just a great way to ruin a clutch.
Anyone know who has the best price on the Tecomec superjolly sharpener ? Maverick lawnmower supply is the best price I can find.
 
No it can, any combo of cutters can be but you’ll be less likely to be filing anymore there’s less call for a full skip chain. With full skip your main gain is you can sometimes use a smaller power head with a longer bar but you will sacrifice speed and smoothness.


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Here’s the biggest question you need to answer first what sort of chain are you grinding? You say a Simington grinder well that does square only. Then you say a Tecomec Super Jolly/ Oregon grinder well they only do round so which are you doing?


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Got the super jolly. Love it !! Now a more important topic. I have a 562XP and a 372XP ( the legend) both with full wrap handle and nice huge double dawgs. My opinion too much saw for my son to learn saws with. I have a 350 I got from my dad that’s a terrible leaker but would be just the right size for a beginner. I want to trade it in for a good saw that’s around the 50cc class. What are yalls recommendations? I’m sure after a little while he’ll soon want to move up to the big boy saws but just needs something smaller to get his confidence and learning how to handle a saw. Mostly for firewood by the way. Thanks
 
Got the super jolly. Love it !! Now a more important topic. I have a 562XP and a 372XP ( the legend) both with full wrap handle and nice huge double dawgs. My opinion too much saw for my son to learn saws with. I have a 350 I got from my dad that’s a terrible leaker but would be just the right size for a beginner. I want to trade it in for a good saw that’s around the 50cc class. What are yalls recommendations? I’m sure after a little while he’ll soon want to move up to the big boy saws but just needs something smaller to get his confidence and learning how to handle a saw. Mostly for firewood by the way. Thanks
super rube, how do you like your super jolly after having used it for a while?

So, I have been looking at adding a chain grinder for cleaning up rocked or metal detecting chains :angry: Since myself and both sons cut firewood for personal use it would be a big help and time saver. Is the Oregon 520 or Tecomec still the best recommendation and price point? We run primarily.325 and 3/8 chains. Thankful for any replies and if I should post in a separate thread please let me know.
 
You have to decide on price point. But the Oregon 520-120 grinder is the one that others compare themselves to. It has a few more features, such as wheel wear compensation, than the others. And comes with high quality wheels.

If the additional features are not important to you, I would consider one of the other Oregon or Tecomec full sized grinders of that style.

Philbert
 
I am an outlier on CBN wheels. I have had a better experience with quality aluminum oxide grinding wheels (Oregon, Tecomec, MoleMab, Total, etc.) that are frequently dressed to expose fresh abrasive.

Also, check out the ‘Oregon 511A’ thread for ‘tricks and tips’ that apply to all similar grinders.

https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
Philbert
 
CBN wheels arnt really needed for the average guy. I've had pretty long life out of the pink Oregon wheels. I mean years worth of sharpening, for me, family, friends and the occasional neighbor. I do more sharpening by hand then anything, but it's nice to bring a chain back with the machine or a rocked chain back up with the machine.
 
I like the CBN because the radius stays correct.
And the grit sharp longer, before cleaning/dressing........
I had a dresser to dress a radius. But cost more than the grinder.
And most folks don’t check their radius

Single edge razor blades perpendicular to the axis works great.

But I was a tool and cutter grinder. Lol
 
CBN wheels arnt really needed for the average guy. I've had pretty long life out of the pink Oregon wheels. I mean years worth of sharpening, for me, family, friends and the occasional neighbor. I do more sharpening by hand then anything, but it's nice to bring a chain back with the machine or a rocked chain back up with the machine.
You are a Filer. I’m a grinder.
I never file. Lol
I have a grinder for each size.
And a CBN wheel means you can grind just enough to sharpen it. Like filing.
Unless you go to a dealer and they put the nephew they can’t fire on the grinder, because he can’t turn a wrench.
 
You are a Filer. I’m a grinder.
I never file. Lol
I have a grinder for each size.
And a CBN wheel means you can grind just enough to sharpen it. Like filing.
Unless you go to a dealer and they put the nephew they can’t fire on the grinder, because he can’t turn a wrench.
That's one other reason that I'm going to grind my own chains🙄. Over the years the chains have come back burned, angles incorrectly ground, some cutters not touched, and so on. At least if a chain that I grind is wrong I've got no one else to blame!
 
Of course, the other side of that equation, is that I can custom grind radii (radiuses?) for different chains or cutting profiles, if I want to experiment or get creative!

Philbert
I can dress wheels to different angles..........
All diamond and CBN wheels were dressed round and concentric to the spindle.
But I do know what you mean.
The custom does intrigue me. And regular wheels will do it.
I had to match radii to angles.
 
That's one other reason that I'm going to grind my own chains🙄. Over the years the chains have come back burned, angles incorrectly ground, some cutters not touched, and so on. At least if a chain that I grind is wrong I've got no one else to blame!
When I first started doing them for a friend he said grinding takes too much.
I changed angles and cleaned the top and bottom of the tooth and didn’t touch the center.
Never said another word and is happy. Lol

I finally got friends to change chains as soon as they dull.
Then there is little to clean up.
And they cut more wood. Lol
 
There ARE people who overheat cutters with grinders.

There ARE people who hog off more cutter material than necessary.

But there ARE chains where removing the damaged parts requires removing a lot of metal, whether by grinder, file, etc. I see this more with full-chisel teeth, where the less supported leading point gets bent, and the sharp, outside edge, where the top and bottom plates meet, gets damaged.

I have had to grind back almost half a cutter on some chains, to get back to clean metal.

Philbert
 

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