Stihl 046 Magnum Questions/Thoughts/Info

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jeepinmatt

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Picked up an 046 Magnum yesterday for $220 (at least I think its a Magnum). Its in good condition mechanically and passable condition cosmetically. Saw runs and starts good, has a fresh chain and a good bar. Ive been lurking and learning here on AS for a few weeks. Was originally looking at Husky 372's, then Dolmar 7900's. I thought the price was right, and the power/weight was in the same range that I was looking for, so I couldn't pass it up.

Ive got a couple of questions:
1. I know the "Magnum" is more than just a name, it means 6+hp instead of 5.4hp. Is there any way I can identify it by serial number? It seems too easy to just swap on a Magnum air filter cover. The muffler does have about a 3/4" hole and also a long slit. Is this the 2 port muffler that signifies it being a magnum?

2. It has a 25" Sandvik replaceable tip bar on it with an Oregon chain. Is this a good bar? I assume its ok to mix and match the bar and chain brands, as long as they are the right sizes? I believe it has 3/8" chain, but I don't know anything beyond that (skip, guage, etc). Ive learned a lot about powerheads, but haven't dove into the bar/chain department yet.

3. Pulled it apart a bit last night. Plug and filter are now clean, but I couldn't get the exhaust off to inspect inside. Whats the trick?

4. The lower bolt on the dogs (stock, single, small version) was a coarse thread screw much like those used to hold the handle on. It was a 5/16 head instead of a T27. I assume this is the incorrect bolt, as it was a huge pain to get out, and coarse threads (plastic/wood screw coarse) don't belong in metals. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

5. Ive read about the handle being attached to the gas tank, and dropping the saw causing a tank leak. Has a remedy for this been discovered? What about on the newer models (ms460), and is it retrofittable?

6. In general, what will swap over from the MS460 to the 046? Are they almost identical?

7. When I had it laid over on the fuel/oil cap side, fuel dripped out onto my workbench. Is the tank vent an open line, or should there be some kind of one way valve to prevent this?

8. When I flip the switch to off, it takes anywhere from zero to 15 seconds to cut off. Ive been using an 028av with Electronic quickstop, and it always cuts off very quickly. Is the cutoff delay typical, or something to look into?

9. What is a good fuel mix to run in these?

10. Ive cleaned the air filter and plug and adjusted the chain. What else would be good to do before I put this thing to work?

Thanks in advance.
 
hello neighbor. The 046/460 are just about the same saw, many parts will fit the other.

Replace the round oring/gasket on your fuel cap. that would be a good start to fix the leak.

Clean the metal contacts on the kill switch, it may be bent a little also.

Sounds like you got a good saw for the money.
 
Sounds like a good deal to me. I think a trip to your dealer is in order to have the saw checked out. The 046 is a big powerful saw and has a greater potential for serious injury than the saw you have been running. Make sure to wear the proper PPE and use good technique. Check out the threads on kickback for info on that. Good luck!
 
Holy questions. I'll toss out my opinions (I'll put it that way, things I think are facts)

1. Magnum really is just a name they gave them in the US. They had the dual port mufflers on them before the increase to 6hp, which was accomplished with porting changes after OSHA had deemed the dual port front cover too loud. The porting was done in 2000, around serial #146085314. (for the flush handle, slightly higher for full wrap) You say it has a 3/4" hole and a slit. Where is the slit? If it's on the front of the muffler, then you do have a dual port setup. This doesn't mean it's not in the 6hp age though, there are plenty of MS series saws out there with those covers, thanks to continued availibility. If the slit's just a touch in front of the 3/4" hole on the main body of the muffler (never seen the 3/4" hole/slit setup before) then it isn't a dual port. The latest 046s and the 460s have a setup like that, but the hole is about 3/8".

2. Not much experience with sandvik. Yes, as long as pitch and gauge are the same, you're good.

3. Trick for getting the muffler off/open is to take the 4 screws on the corners out of the front of it. The one close to the bar is easier with the bar off.

4. Yeah, negative on the bolt being right. Might have to heli-coil it. Last I saw, Madsen's had heli-coil kits.

5. Treat your saw like a small child, don't drop it. The 460 tank will swap over, and the ones after about '03 had a little stronger rear handle.

6. Everything but the fuel/oil caps. And the fuel caps will swap if you swap the tank.

7. Should be a couple of little screws in the hose to slow fuel down. It's like 6 bucks to get a new hose + screws. (at least when/where I got one)

8. On the 028, the electronic and quickstop are two seperate things. The electronic refering to the ignition, seperating it from being a points system. The quickstop is referring to the chainbrake system. Take a look at your switch, I bet the contacts aren't touching right. To check, pull the air filter base.

9. 50:1 Stihl Ultra in premium unleaded. (now that's a can of worms. Don't ask about fuel mix.)

10. Have somebody check the carb tuning on it. What did the plug look like before you cleaned it? Was your sprocket in good shape? Shouldn't be much of anything for wear where the tie straps hit it. (Oregon reccommends replacement when the wear gets to be 1/64") Are the clutch drum and needle bearing in good shape?

Sounds like you got a good deal, now go make some chips buddy!!
 
What part of the world are you in 2000ssm6?

Sounds like a good deal to me. I think a trip to your dealer is in order to have the saw checked out.

What would the dealer be able to check that I couldn't?
Some people are dealer people, some aren't. Im definitely not. Also, Im very mechanically inclined, and a chainsaw seems so simple compared to other things Ive worked on.

1. Where is the slit? If it's on the front of the muffler, then you do have a dual port setup.
3. Trick for getting the muffler off/open is to take the 4 screws on the corners out of the front of it. The one close to the bar is easier with the bar off.

10. Have somebody check the carb tuning on it. What did the plug look like before you cleaned it? Was your sprocket in good shape? Shouldn't be much of anything for wear where the tie straps hit it. (Oregon reccommends replacement when the wear gets to be 1/64") Are the clutch drum and needle bearing in good shape?
1. The slit is on the front of the muffler.

3. I did take all four screws loose, but couldn't get it to budge with light motivation. Ill motivated a little harder this evening.

10. Plug looked good, not rich or lean. Actually it was the best looking used plug I've ever pulled out of anything I own. It was a Denso plug, and required a 13/16" socket, which didn't seem right because it didn't really fit in the available space. I recall reading that Bosch is the way to go?

How do you measure wear on the sprocket? I haven't pulled the clutch yet, everything spun smooth and worked properly.
 
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GREAT reply Tek...


Sprocket wear - stihl says 0.5mm (0.020 inch)max.. $4-5 will get you a new one.

Just tap the front cover sideways with a screwdrive handle. It will pop off.

Denso makes a fine plug, but we use Bosch exclusively with no issues. Just make sure whatever you use does NOT have a screw-on end...
 
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Denso makes a fine plug, but we use Bosch exclusively with no issues. Just make sure whatever you use does NOT have a screw-on end...
Are you talking about the end where the wire/boot plugs onto the spark plug (where else would you be talking about, duh)? What's wrong with a screw on end?
 
The screw-on ends get loose and completely unscrew. The spark still arcs but is inefficient, eventually messes up the cap/wire end, and stresses the ignition. If you have to put in one that has a screw-on end, crimp it with a pair of dikes. The correct bosch, ngk, denso and other listed plugs have a solid end.
 
The screw-on ends get loose and completely unscrew. The spark still arcs but is inefficient, eventually messes up the cap/wire end, and stresses the ignition. If you have to put in one that has a screw-on end, crimp it with a pair of dikes. The correct bosch, ngk, denso and other listed plugs have a solid end.
Or a bit of threadlocker.
 
The screw-on ends get loose and completely unscrew. The spark still arcs but is inefficient, eventually messes up the cap/wire end, and stresses the ignition. If you have to put in one that has a screw-on end, crimp it with a pair of dikes. The correct bosch, ngk, denso and other listed plugs have a solid end.

A dude from the Prineville Hotshots caught himself on fire like this back in '05. Filled up his saw spilling a little as usual, then fired it up and the arc outside of the combustion chamber ignited said spilled fuel, and gave the dude some pretty decent burns.
 
Someone started a large fire and almost burned down our property refueling a weed wacker in the high dry grass. Probably for the same reason, they didnt look like equipment maintainers. Had helicopters and fire trucks... good times.. Luckily everything was ok.
 
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