Double powerhead CSMs

[cantcutter]

Anybody on here have one that has two powerheads on it? I want to build one so I am looking for some pictures of how the second powerhead is attached:greenchainsaw:

 

[Zodiac45]

The only one's that I've seen are the one's that use a special bar that's the same on both ends. (No tip, just two mount ends) You just mount the the saw heads opposite each other. Sort of like you would flip a bar over every so often for wear. One head is rightside up , the other is upside down.

 

[dustytools]

http://onlinestore.forestindustry.c...on/co=yes/sf=category/se=1507/op=eq/ml=5.html Here is a link to Granbergs double ended bar selection. I have a 44" double with a helper handle on it.

 

[cantcutter]

Huh....didn't know they came like that.....lots of money for a bar though.....guess I will have to tuck some money aside for a while. Might as well go all out and get the 72". Think two 79 cc powerheads will run it?

 

[Brmorgan]

Sure, they'll run it. But if you're going to actually be cutting slabs 5-6 feet wide, it's gonna be slow as molasses in January. A couple 088s would be more appropriate for that size. Also I wouldn't recommend getting a huge 6 foot bar unless you are really going to be working mostly with logs that size. Big bars and small logs are a less than ideal combination, both because of weight/balance issues, and uneven wear over just a portion of the bar rails.

 

[BobL]

, and uneven wear over just a portion of the bar rails.

Just a tip. If you clad the mill rails with something like Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) as I did on the BIL Mill this can reduce sliding friction and be replaced when it wears out. The cladding has become pretty scratched, but at the rate I'm milling it looks like it will last another 4-5 years

 

[OneStaple]

Hey BobL, I just read about UHMWPE on wikipedia and it sounds like some cool stuff. Sort of like a really tough teflon. Where do you purchase this stuff, how do you apply it, and is it expensive?

Sorry if I'm taking this thread off topic, but hopefully other people are curious too. And it'd be helpful to know if you're running a 72" bar.

--Tyler

 

[woodshop]

Hey BobL, I just read about UHMWPE on wikipedia and it sounds like some cool stuff. Sort of like a really tough teflon. Where do you purchase this stuff, how do you apply it, and is it expensive?

Sorry if I'm taking this thread off topic, but hopefully other people are curious too. And it'd be helpful to know if you're running a 72" bar.

--Tyler

Most woodworking supply places have it, as it is used on machine fences and such to make them slippery. It comes in various sizes and widths. Do a google search and you will find tons of places to get it.

 

[cantcutter]

Just a tip. If you clad the mill rails with something like Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) as I did on the BIL Mill this can reduce sliding friction and be replaced when it wears out.

I have a block that is oil infused, I plan on using it to replace the roller guides on my band mill.....one of these days

 

[BobL]

Hey BobL, I just read about UHMWPE on wikipedia and it sounds like some cool stuff. Sort of like a really tough teflon. Where do you purchase this stuff, how do you apply it, and is it expensive?

Sorry if I'm taking this thread off topic, but hopefully other people are curious too. And it'd be helpful to know if you're running a 72" bar.

--Tyler

UHMWPE is probably a touch tougher than Teflon. I see ENCO have sheets of 24 x 48 x 1/4' for about $48. Although it better if you do, you don't need to line your entire rails with it, just the area that comes into contact with the guide rails or timber.

 

[Brmorgan]

Just a tip. If you clad the mill rails with something like Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMWPE) as I did on the BIL Mill this can reduce sliding friction and be replaced when it wears out. The cladding has become pretty scratched, but at the rate I'm milling it looks like it will last another 4-5 years

Great tip, Bob. Don't know why I hadn't thought of that! Where I live, the only place I can get UHMW is the local steel supply and even then they sometimes have to order it. I do know that Lee Valley Tools sells it online, but it's not cheap by any means. Working at a sawmill, I can often get scrap pieces for free (chain runs, etc.) but it's usually well-worn. As for attaching it, I just countersink either a tapered hole for a flat-head screw or a recessed flat-bottomed hole for a pan-head or bolt. Make sure to use a washer with a flat-bottomed hole. I doubt any adhesive known to man would adhere very well to it.

 

[BobL]

Sounds familiar.

 

[arfabuck]

Anybody on here have one that has two powerheads on it? I want to build one so I am looking for some pictures of how the second powerhead is attached:greenchainsaw:

I drive a 6' bar with two Stihl 66's to give me a 4' slab 2" thick for table tops.

Seems to be an OK set-up when tuned in. No problems so far. Only cut macrocarpa but. ( Monterey pine ).

Tried the 88 but far too much power and the gas bill didn't cut it.

Art

 

[olyman]

from what ive read in diff places---two powerheads dont cut it--fuel consumption--being tuning perfect--getting both at exact same rpm----its been said one large powerhead is better---some have turned to a vertical shaft gas engine--and adapted it to the csm--said it works great--less fuel consumed also---

 

[cantcutter]

some have turned to a vertical shaft gas engine--and adapted it to the csm--said it works great--less fuel consumed also---

I wouldn't think a four stroke would have enough torque and speed to run a chainsaw mill. The higher horse power engines are so heavy I wonder if you need two people on the engine end of the mill?

 

[Brmorgan]

4-strokes generally have more torque but not as much HP per engine displacement. Much lower RPM, heavier crank and flywheel, etc. I don't know of anybody using one for a hand-held mill, most people build them into a carriage that rides a track like a bandmill.

 

[stilhusk]

from what ive read in diff places---two powerheads dont cut it--fuel consumption--being tuning perfect--getting both at exact same rpm----its been said one large powerhead is better---some have turned to a vertical shaft gas engine--and adapted it to the csm--said it works great--less fuel consumed also---

If you wanna save fuel buy a bandsaw mill!
Of course, for the price of a bandmill you can buy a large quantity of fuel.

 

[olyman]

and normally in a small vertical shaft csm--less money invested---much less than a bandsawmill-----to each his own-------------kinda like woodshop says---according to the application--

 

[cantcutter]

If you wanna save fuel buy a bandsaw mill!
Of course, for the price of a bandmill you can buy a large quantity of fuel.

I already own a bandmill. I want a CSM to slab out logs that are too large for the bandmill. The mill can handle 36 inches so I want something that will mill up over 5 ft across. Does look like the single head would be the way to go, I don't have patiance for fine tuning anything

 

[arfabuck]

I already own a bandmill. I want a CSM to slab out logs that are too large for the bandmill. The mill can handle 36 inches so I want something that will mill up over 5 ft across. Does look like the single head would be the way to go, I don't have patiance for fine tuning anything

The fine tuning is little more than setting one power head to the other by way of adjusting the 'thin/rich' needle once at full bore. I find this lasts for half a day before needing attention.

Good luck with a single head cutting 5' across. I found it slow going and a lot of sweat, hence the double header. The perceived extra fuel is made up in time and being able to carry out the slabs at the end of the day.

Art