MAG58
ArboristSite Guru
I use small pump oil can to lube all new bars....
Same here, and if one of the saw have been out of use for some time I lube the bar and chain again.
I use small pump oil can to lube all new bars....
How about a Mac 250? Homelite 770G? or a Homelite 995? ...same difference.
Don't have to do it to those saws... never have, never will...
Gary
See page 34 of this Oregon manual...pretty close to the OP's method...
http://www.oregonchain.com/tech/ms_manual/ms_02.pdf
In no way are logging companies and professional cutters not doing this soak and hang procedure to be a tax WRITE off...
Gee thats too much work to do after cutting I just blow mine off with air when I get home maybe some WD-40 to get the Pine sap off. Kinda glad I am thousands of miles away from them saw eating Palm Trees!:monkey:Noooo, I can't resist...
Even if I soaked a chain before using it, the first palm tree takes care of ALL the oil, soaked or not. It just isn't worth the time, for those of us who use saws regularly, I do not think soaking prior to first use would add a significant percentage of time before 'wear out'. My chains 'wear out' when they have next to no cutter left, not because the individual components are worn (tie straps, rivets or drive links)
When I'm done cutting a palm, there isn't a speck of oil on the chain or bar, REAL clean though!!
You have to strip it down, clean everything and run it clean to spread some oil about BEFORE you put it away for the night, if you don't, the magnesium will disintegrate, and the bar and chain will rust together overnight.
'kay??? Over and Out, bye bye now
.
Used to be a thing with old dirtbike chains that you would buy a big round tin of grease and heat it on the stove, when it got liquid you would drop your bike chain in and leave it for a while then take it out and drip dry and cool.
Then o-ring chains came out and most people don't even bother to spray lube on the chain anymore.
Space Mule.Uh huh. Let's assume without questioning, that your method will add 10% to the life of the chain--a very dubious claim at best. Who will benefit more from practicing your method? A homeowner who will only use at most 1 to 2 chains per year and spend more in oil costs than the saved chain cost, or a big business who will use 100's of chains per year and can treat dozens of chains at a time?
If it is not cost effective for a business to do, why would it be cost effective for a homeowner to do?
Yeah it's time to face up to the fact. You're anal retentive.
WOW!!! I never realized that any sap could Ruin a Chain, and Bar. If this sap is so hard on the Bars, and Chains, What about the rest of the Saw? Thanks. Bruce.Noooo, I can't resist...
Even if I soaked a chain before using it, the first palm tree takes care of ALL the oil, soaked or not. It just isn't worth the time, for those of us who use saws regularly, I do not think soaking prior to first use would add a significant percentage of time before 'wear out'. My chains 'wear out' when they have next to no cutter left, not because the individual components are worn (tie straps, rivets or drive links)
When I'm done cutting a palm, there isn't a speck of oil on the chain or bar, REAL clean though!!
You have to strip it down, clean everything and run it clean to spread some oil about BEFORE you put it away for the night, if you don't, the magnesium will disintegrate, and the bar and chain will rust together overnight.
'kay??? Over and Out, bye bye now
Like I have said Before. Chains and Bars are not cheap for you guys in Australia, for here in Canada. Being that the Exchange rate is quit cheap for Us Canadians, I found a good buy from across the Border. $10.00 USD for a 60 Link 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge of Carlton Chain, verses $20.00 Canadian for 60 Links 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge of Laser Chain, $25.00 to $30.00 Canadian for 60 Links 3/8 Pitch x 0.050 Gauge and the Carlton Cutters are longer than Oregon, and Laser. Compared to the US Prices, the prices in Australia, and Canada, are Astronomical.Wish chain was cheap here, 72 links of semi-chisel made up will cost anywhere from A$30 to A$42. The dearer stuff is local, the cheaper either mail order or in one of the big towns, but they are 100km away.
A$42 = US$48, just for a 72 link piece of Carlton, so you tend to look after the buggers, and bars, and sprocket tips, etc.
WOW!!! I never realized that any sap could Ruin a Chain, and Bar. If this sap is so hard on the Bars, and Chains, What about the rest of the Saw? Thanks. Bruce.
When soaking a chain is it better to use winter or summer bar oil??????
Does anybody lube the bar rails before installing a chain???
Fish.What exactly do you all mean by "break in"?
You normally replace a chain when the cutters have no tooth left.
If you put a new chain on a worn out sprocket, then there will be some
"break in" and stretching, but will soaking help that?
Wear on a bar is from lack of lube on the bar, and running a worn stretched
dull chain, wear on a sprocket is from a stretched worn dull chain, etc....
Wow this is getting entertaining. Have yet to have a chain get tossed for premature wear. I have a rack of chains that are prolly 40-50% left on the cutters I only use for plowing. Maybe some chains cost an awful lota money. Ill continue to throw new one on and run the saw. But then again I buy chain in 100' rolls so its only about 15 dollars a pop for105 link chain. Get an excavator and lets really grow this mole hill.opcorn:
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