028 WB Frustration

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johnb

ArboristSite Operative
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Dec 18, 2001
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Rolling Prairie, IN
Hey guys I got a 028 WB driving me crazy. I did some horse trading with a friend of mine and swaped a 141 husky for and 028wb. He needed a limbing saw and I didn't (i guess). Oh well the 028 needed cleaned up and carb kit, impulse hose, draw line hose, plug. ya know the basics, but it won't idle. runs ok at fullbore but once ya let offf the gas she dives to her death. I thinking maybe crank seals?? would they effect the idle but not top end. I just get the feeling shes starved for vacum on the low end. I pulled the muffler and the piston and rings look good. the compression on the pull rope seems ok but I've been starting my 394 without the compression release lately and everything seems easyer then that old girl. I just feel like I'm at a dead end with it. I have set the saw aside twice now in frustration. and I hate doing that! If anyone has suggestions let me know. thanks the Hoosier




Sharpen your chain it's a jungle out there!!!
 
Hi John, I doubt it's the seals, check the tank vent and fuel filter.
Turn up the high idle screw to max and see if it does the same thing. If so, flood it, then seat both screws H&L, start it and let it run dry, reset carb and start in usual fashion. This will clean out the carb of any tiny obstructions - maybe. Also if clutch has been over heated due to reving while pinched, the springs will be stretched causing engagement at idle and therefore stalling.
Hope this helps.
John
 
028WB

Carb. Tillotson, needle leaking thru and nozzle jet stuck. May be no cure.
Walbro, same problem, but they seen to be fixable much more often.
Also confirm correct inlet lever height, inlet lever spins on axle FREELY, and CORRECT diaphragms and gaskets. If your kit fit a few models of the carb, it is very important that they all match.
 
Hey guys, you were all right! I re-cleaned the carb and gave it some high pressure air in the H & L screws. Now it runs, it still idles poorly. Turns a whole lotta RPM's at idle until ya touch the L screw with a screw driver. than it immediatly goes to idle. I am really suprised how many RPM's it turns on top end. It seems to be a pretty good little saw but kinda heavy. Any solutions for the L screw leak?? New carb right? thanks the Hoosier




Sharpen your chain it's a jungle out there!!
 
Im sorry I know stihl teck is the arborsite expert. but.......
points & condencer causing reve up ? I say its a carb. problem.
If the seals were bad it would rev. all the time.
 
Hey guys I'm still messing with this 028WB! I tryed to get the leak fixed but no change if anything the idle is worse. I went to the walbro web sight to cross reference the carb but they have no listing for the 028WB. The carb doesn't show up in anyother stihl saws listed. I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow and price a new carb if I can get one. Should I prepare for sticker shock!!! the Hoosier




Sharpen your chain it's a jungle out there!!!!
 
if shes reving much over 12.500 ,,u mite need to ajust her back some.. it sure be a shame to blow an 028.. plus u mite find more power,, tuning with a tach... and mine all worked best at 12.500 to 13000.
this said ,,i gotta admit when i tuned with a tach ,,most were already at or close to there best ,,tuning by ear on the wood..good luck..
 
carb

Look in the venturi of the carb. See the little brass nozzle sticking down? Replace it. First, get someone with a pressure tester to check the inlet needle and see if it is leaking. Spray a little soap and water arond the carb and see where it is bubbling.

Inlet needle leaks can sometimes be cured by a new inlet needle, freeing up the inlet lever on the pivot, adjusting the lever correctly, or a new spring. Only if the seat is pitted will you need a new carb. A good long soak in carb cleaner will do it also, but I would still replace the nozzle.
 
I also have an 028 WB, it runs great at high end and when at idle, with one exception. When I first start up the saw it will idle fine then after a bit I notice that it starts to speed up as it warms up (all at idle) then if you rev the engine a couple times then the idle really starts to speed up and you have to back off the L screw to stop the chain from spinning. If you let the saw cool down and start it again then you have to turn the L screw in and start the process over again. I have noticed that the chain wants to start and stop spinning speratic so I'm guessing a new clutch spring would be in order to help that. The saw is a used saw but I figured one to learn on, I enjoy tinkering with things to get them to work (cheaper than my 036 and no great lose if I blow it) either way warm or cold I can do the role test on it and it seems fine (no change in idle speed) pickup is fast and goes right to top end without skipping a beat (four cycling at top end is how it is set right now I don't have a tach) and it runs smooth at the top end and sounds great (I don't keep it up there long just a few seconds then back off don't want to hurt it without it being under load). Anyway the air filter is new, the fuel filter is new, the fuel line hose needs replaced it feels like goo. My guess is I need a carb rebuild, fuel line hose and impulse hose if am at that point anyway, would this be the your guess or am I on a wild goose chase here? I have been reading up on a search on here and this seems to be the closest post I can get to the problem, didn't want to start a new thread.
 
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My experience with the 028 WBs is that they are troublesome when they get a lot of use on them. You can spend a lot of time trying to get them to run right. I do not like old near wore out 028s. I won't take them on trade. IMHO you made poor choice of used saws.
 
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