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Insulation improvements

Thanks Ben,
I'm not sure about the insulation and how well it works in Romania, but it's not meeting my needs (unless I load the boiler ever 6 hours when it's below 20*). I will remedy it and document it for others that are having the same issues as I've done before.

Hi,

I agree that there are people that have insulation problems. I don't know why but the new insulation in the bottom and the front door will help that issue.

Best regards,

Ben
 
Are you going to offer that new insulation to current owners?



Crickets..chirp..chirp.. about the same response as when I suggested either replacements or at least discounted items that were discussed, tested, and now perhaps standard issue on their furnace by members of this forum. Its called customer relations. Seems the bottom insulation becomes critical for those of you who raised their furnaces for easier wood loading. 3 !/2, 6, 9, or 12 inch batts insulation ( whatever fits )would probably be most cost effective option. The heat loss on the ones I've seen that were raised would be substantial indeed. Sprayed foam would be the coolest but probably the most expensive. I especially liked the enclosed unit and then extra insulation as well.

:monkey:
 
Yup,kind of quiet now in here. I used R19 on the bottom of mine,it made a huge difference in the ability of my OWB to keep temperature.I used the faced 15" batts 3 wide,was a perfect fit,and about 6 ft long,in my case with the 250.It was tight laying under it,to put it in there,but plenty warm as the heat coming off the OWB was keeping me warm.This should have been done at the factory,the thought of an uninsulated 100 degree temp differential between the ground,and water tank of the OWB with 16+sq ft area is just insane.
 
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bare bones boiler

Perhaps Shaver will consider selling a stripped down model with nothing but firebox and water jacket and a web link to this forum, then that salesman guy won't have to defend it's short comings.
 
solenoid

I got the solenoid on this afternoon .IT sure snaps up quick.
I just hope the air being shut off between cycles doesn't lead to lots more creosote.
Once again I want to express thanks for the useful info found on this site.
The steam fix ,blower fix , lots more insulation and for me rerouting the return line was a vast improvement over stock. John
 
I got the solenoid on this afternoon .IT sure snaps up quick.
I just hope the air being shut off between cycles doesn't lead to lots more creosote.
Once again I want to express thanks for the useful info found on this site.
The steam fix ,blower fix , lots more insulation and for me rerouting the return line was a vast improvement over stock. John

It works great,you really need to have the digital aquastat,IMO with the blower door mod,as cycling becomes a lot more frequent than when the door was stuck partially open.
 
Stripped down shaver

Perhaps Shaver will consider selling a stripped down model with nothing but firebox and water jacket and a web link to this forum, then that salesman guy won't have to defend it's short comings.

We already do!

Some go to the folks who put them in sheds and other buildings (no tin insulation or roof structure or back door.

Some go overseas, because they can't use our 110V electrical components anyway.

Some go to dealers who do their own mods, like many shown here (although they never came here).

Some are shipped without pumps because people have their own.

Some order them without a hot water coil.

We will make them anyway a customer wants.

Best regards,

Ben
 
Crickets..chirp..chirp..

On another note, Due to the cold weather here, I finally decided to bump up my thermostat from 140 degrees ( actual water temp 130 to 160 ) to 150 degrees ( 160 to 170 degrees actual water temp ). For some reason it seems to have tightened the gap between the wildly fluctuating temps with it hanging around 170 more steadily. The door sticking from creosote has also improved a lot. Of course you have to feed it a bit more. Might be a bit premature but this is almost acceptable.

:welcome:
 
We already do!

Some go to the folks who put them in sheds and other buildings (no tin insulation or roof structure or back door.

Some go overseas, because they can't use our 110V electrical components anyway.

Some go to dealers who do their own mods, like many shown here (although they never came here).

Some are shipped without pumps because people have their own.

Some order them without a hot water coil.

We will make them anyway a customer wants.

Best regards,

Ben

Sorry I didn't hang last nite,

Shaver Improvement Forum Forever

That salesman guy never

Enough said about that by me .
 
Before you guys went with the selenoid for opening the flapper, did any of you toy with the idea of trying to make a gravity type flapper out of PVC?

I was wondering if a piece of PVC with a flapper that would swing on some type of hinge that would be light enough to swing open (inward) when the blower kicked on.

If you woulld drill a hole(twoholes actually) slightly higher than the center piont of the PVC. You could insert a stiff wire all the way through.

On this wire would be a round piece of plastic that was slightly smaller than the inside dia. of the PVC. it would swing freely enough for the suction of the blower to open it.


Hard to explain but have any of you toyed with this idea?
 
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Before you guys went with the selenoid for opening the flapper, did any of you toy with the idea of trying to make a gravity type flapper out of PVC?

I was wondering if a piece of PVC with a flapper that would swing on some type of hinge that would be light enough to swing open (inward) when the blower kicked on.

If you woulld drill a hole(twoholes actually) slightly higher than the center piont of the PVC. You could insert a stiff wire all the way through.

On this wire would be a round piece of plastic that was slightly smaller than the inside dia. of the PVC. it would swing freely enough for the suction of the blower to open it.



Heck, you could almost use a soup can with the top and bottom removed and use one of the ends for the flapper.

Hard to explain but have any of you toyed with this idea?
 
flapper

Actually I did try this ,The natural draft going through the firebox pulled the flapper open . Some type of spring might work to keep the flapper closed.
Some one else on here had a pic of his homemade draft flapper.
 
Windwalker, check out page 18 of this thread. I'm very satisfied with my flapper. The counterweight keeps it shut tight when the blower isn't on.
 
dhw

Is anybody using the copper coil for hot water and if so how?

My copper coil can be called 5/8" which is the od [outside diameter] measurement
It's 1/2" id [ inside diameter ]
 
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