Professional chain sharpening

[biscuit141]

What is a good price? Chain that can on my CS-510 is dull as hell. Figured I'll get this one sharpened and pick up a spare. How do I know how long and what type of chain will work on my saw? I have two Echo dealers in town, but the Stihl dealer is closest. Or is it better to buy online, via Bailey's or the like?

 

[outdoorlivin247]

You can buy a 16" loop of 3/8 from Baileys for $13, order a couple of files while you are at it...It will be cheaper than what a shop will charge to sharpen your chain 3 times...

 

[Erick]

Local prices run between $4.00 and $9.00

Like Sean said get a couple of files and learn to use them will save you a ton of money much less time.

 

[roncoinc]

What is a good price? Chain that can on my CS-510 is dull as hell. Figured I'll get this one sharpened and pick up a spare. How do I know how long and what type of chain will work on my saw? I have two Echo dealers in town, but the Stihl dealer is closest. Or is it better to buy online, via Bailey's or the like?

Take the bar off and look at the end of it..should have an indication of what you need to know as far as chain size and lenght..
example.. 3/8 050 58dl.

 

[SteveH]

Bailey's is great, but whether you buy and extra chain or two or three won't change the question of keeping the chain(s) you do have sharp. People who cut regularly, and even some who don't, value a sharp chain, which will give your saw performance equal to a larger saw if your chain is dull.

The price for sharpening around here [Denver and surrounds] is $8 or more for a 20" chain. I mean, of course, a chain for a 20" bar. I haven't had one sharpened by anyone other than myself in several years, but the last time I did it was $8.

A good file is a couple dollars. Or less sometimes in packages of three or four. If you learn to file, you will start each day of cutting with a sharp chain. Or if you decide to go the grinder route, same deal. The sharpening equipment you buy will pay for itself. If you go the hand-filing route, it will pay for itself in two or three or only a few sharpenings.

But, yes, get yourself a spare chain or two, regardless of what you decide about sharpening. Bailey's has some screaming deals, though the shipping on an order of one or two chains is probably a nod toward buying them locally. Of course, Bailey's has lots of other stuff to consider besides chains, like spare rims and sprockets and bars and files and so on.

 

[mikefunaro]

Pro sharpening doesn't pay. Anyone that does it in my area charges $10+. You can basically buy decent chains at that price from baileys.

Most of the time the shops who sharpen are VERY aggressive...they'll take off like a 1/3 of a brand new cutter. Also, if they don't know what they're doing, they will essentially overheat the cutters. They can then get brittle and your new pro sharpened chain doesnt stay sharp.

The fact is that there are no professionals who don't sharpen their own chains (double neg--woo). There really isn't much money in it for the shops. Buy some files, watch some youtube videos, and learn how. I like the stihl jig myself. Maybe even have someone show you if you can find someone.

If you're not concerned about cutting speed buy semi-chisel chains. They will last longer between sharpenings.

You need to read the numbers on the bar to find out what chain size you need. feel free to report back with all of the numbers off the bar.

 

[Mastermind]

Bailey's is great, but whether you buy and extra chain or two or three won't change the question of keeping the chain(s) you do have sharp. People who cut regularly, and even some who don't, value a sharp chain, which will give your saw performance equal to a larger saw if your chain is dull.

The price for sharpening around here [Denver and surrounds] is $8 or more for a 20" chain. I mean, of course, a chain for a 20" bar. I haven't had one sharpened by anyone other than myself in several years, but the last time I did it was $8.

A good file is a couple dollars. Or less sometimes in packages of three or four. If you learn to file, you will start each day of cutting with a sharp chain. Or if you decide to go the grinder route, same deal. The sharpening equipment you buy will pay for itself. If you go the hand-filing route, it will pay for itself in two or three or only a few sharpenings.

But, yes, get yourself a spare chain or two, regardless of what you decide about sharpening. Bailey's has some screaming deals, though the shipping on an order of one or two chains is probably a nod toward buying them locally. Of course, Bailey's has lots of other stuff to consider besides chains, like spare rims and sprockets and bars and files and so on.

Great post. :agree2:

 

[garyischofield]

diamond sharpening tools

I read a post by an AS member about how much more successful he felt using a diamond coated tool in his hand held grinder was than hand filing.I used a battery powered sharpener to remove steel on cutters that were hardened by overheating:the result of poor machine sharpening.In the 37 years of making my living with chainsaws,I've only sharpened with files.The point the member using the hand held grinder was making was that it seemed easier than hand filing. Set your angles prior to touching the cutter and because the grinder is basically static while sharpening it was easier to concentrate on maintaining the correct angles.It isn't for me,but it may be an option for some less experienced wood cutters.Few things are as frustrating as illcutting chains.That new sharpening device by Oregon seems at a glance to have its merits.I am fanatical about keeping my chain out of the dirt and watch for hardware and rocks.To me ,smokin' fast chains are a thing of beauty.Gary

 

[computeruser]

Apart from some folks who make nice race chain or who can square file really well, I cannot see paying someone to butcher a chain. Especially a short one. .

 

[CHEVYTOWN13]

I just got the Husq roller guide and that's the way to go!

It does less damage to the file compared to the FOP.

 

[REJ2]

Bailey's is great, but whether you buy and extra chain or two or three won't change the question of keeping the chain(s) you do have sharp. People who cut regularly, and even some who don't, value a sharp chain, which will give your saw performance equal to a larger saw if your chain is dull.

The price for sharpening around here [Denver and surrounds] is $8 or more for a 20" chain. I mean, of course, a chain for a 20" bar. I haven't had one sharpened by anyone other than myself in several years, but the last time I did it was $8.

A good file is a couple dollars. Or less sometimes in packages of three or four. If you learn to file, you will start each day of cutting with a sharp chain. Or if you decide to go the grinder route, same deal. The sharpening equipment you buy will pay for itself. If you go the hand-filing route, it will pay for itself in two or three or only a few sharpenings.

But, yes, get yourself a spare chain or two, regardless of what you decide about sharpening. Bailey's has some screaming deals, though the shipping on an order of one or two chains is probably a nod toward buying them locally. Of course, Bailey's has lots of other stuff to consider besides chains, like spare rims and sprockets and bars and files and so on.

Written very well and on target!! REJ2

 

[StihlyinEly]

When I was just cutting firewood for home use (8-10 cord per year) and had one saw, I'd send one chain to the local shop ($5 per chain, regardless of length) and cut with the other until it started to get dull, then I'd send the other to the shop, rotating them.

Guy is a good sharpener. Only takes off what he needs to. I'd only need one chain per season before sharpening, though if I stumbled and buried the bar in the dirt I'd have the other sharp chain for backup.

Cutting a lot more wood than that now, and owning a lot more saws, I've gone back to the hand filing that I used to do years ago when working for a tree service.

Even on a longer bar, it only takes a few minutes to touch up a chain by hand, and it's a nice break every few tanks of gas. Gives me a chance to sit, catch my breath, listen to the birds sing and drink down some fluids.

 

[DSS]

When I was just cutting firewood for home use (8-10 cord per year) and had one saw, I'd send one chain to the local shop ($5 per chain, regardless of length) and cut with the other until it started to get dull, then I'd send the other to the shop, rotating them.

Guy is a good sharpener. Only takes off what he needs to. I'd only need one chain per season before sharpening, though if I stumbled and buried the bar in the dirt I'd have the other sharp chain for backup.

Cutting a lot more wood than that now, and owning a lot more saws, I've gone back to the hand filing that I used to do years ago when working for a tree service.

Even on a longer bar, it only takes a few minutes to touch up a chain by hand, and it's a nice break every few tanks of gas. Gives me a chance to sit, catch my breath, listen to the birds sing and drink down some fluids. [/QUOTE]

What he said.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I think the key to making a chain last is to sharpen it frequently, and not let it get too dull. Better to make 3 strokes on a chain thats just getting dull then to make 15 strokes on a really dull chain.

Don't have it filed at a shop, I tryed that a few times before I learned to file and every time the chain would be hardened to the point that a hand file would'nt even cut it anymore. They like to burn chains up, around here anyways.

You need to remember when filing to keep your angles right. Like my chain, for example, needs to be filed at 30º angle. With your file always horizontal to the bar ( 90º ). Need to always have the cutters the exact same length or very close. That means all of them. And need to file your guides (rakers) down to the recommended length as the cutters wear down.

Just take your time and practice. And remember not to let it gt too dull betwen filing.

Check this link out:
http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdf/SharpAdvice061301final.pdf

Should tell you everything you know.

 

[mdavlee]

Buy some save edge files and a guide and go at it. By the time you get good you can touch up a 28" chain in about 4 minutes.

 

[Mad Professor]

Also, buy a good set of gloves, to use when you are learning how to sharpen chains with a file.

I still use gloves as they are cheap compared to skin on my knuckles, when the file slips..........

 

[mdavlee]

I try to remember gloves when I sharpen also. It doesn't take but a little slip to have a nice cut on your fingers.

 

[ropensaddle]

Take the bar off and look at the end of it..should have an indication of what you need to know as far as chain size and lenght..
example.. 3/8 050 58dl.

58 drive links 18"bar

 

[MCW]

With your file always horizontal to the bar ( 90º ). Need to always have the cutters the exact same length or very close. That means all of them. And need to file your guides (rakers) down to the recommended length as the cutters wear down.

Well written mate however Stihl is the only full chisel chain (that I know of) that recommends filing at 90° (or 0° depending on how you look at it). The other full chisel brands recommend 10°.


Also you guys must have some absolute morons running grinders over there. Everytime a chain sharpening thread pops up people come out with grinder comments like "butcher", "wreck", "overheated" etc etc. Trust me, this isn't the grinder's fault, this is due to inexperienced or stupid operators. A properly operated grinder will do an excellent job on sharpening a chain.

 

[Racerboy832]

I love the local Stihl dealer. Waiting at the counter and you hear the guy behind the wall grinding chains. Sounds like he is Grinding a steel plate with a 4" grinder. The first and last time they did a chain for me it came back blue and didn't cut for sheet. When I do mine it barely makes much noise when the wheel touches the chain.