Can this tree be saved?

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Spalted

ArboristSite Lurker
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Linked is a photo of about a 24" red maple. It has a significant opening along one side as shown in the photo (with my hat for scale). There is water in the bottom of the hole. I'd rather not take it down.
Is it just a matter of time before it comes down? Which way would it likely fall? (the hole faces SE, prevailing strong winds from W and SW)
What can be done to save/prolong its life? Cover the hole with plastic sheeting? Drill a weep hole too? Your thoughts?
 
That tree has a lot of woundwood reinforcing that injury. It may be stronger than an unwounded tree. Scoop the funk out of the hole and poke in a long screwdriver.

"Abnormalities found during inspections, including insect activity and spotted, deformed, discolored, or dead leaves and twigs, should be noted and watched closely. If you are uncertain as to what should be done, report your findings to your local ISA Certified Arborist or other tree care professional for advice on possible treatment.





Mulching

Mulching can reduce environmental stress by providing trees with a stable root environment that is cooler and contains more moisture than the surrounding soil. Mulch can also prevent mechanical damage by keeping machines such as lawn mowers and string trimmers away from the tree’s base. Further, mulch reduces competition from surrounding weeds and turf.

To be most effective in all of these functions, mulch should be placed 2 to 4 inches deep and cover the entire root system, which may be as far as 2 or 3 times the diameter of the branch spread of the tree. If the area and activities happening around the tree do not permit the entire area to be mulched, it is recommended that you mulch as much of the area under the drip line of the tree as possible (refer to diagram). When placing mulch, care should be taken not to cover the actual trunk of the tree. This mulch-free area, 1 to 2 inches wide at the base, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and prevent trunk decay.

An organic mulch layer 2 to 4 inches deep of loosely packed shredded leaves, pine straw, peat moss, or composted wood chips is adequate. Plastic should not be used because it interferes with the exchange of gases between soil and air, which inhibits root growth. Thicker mulch layers, 5 to 6 inches deep or greater, may also inhibit gas exchange.

Fertilization

Fertilization is another important aspect of mature tree care. Trees require certain nutrients (essential elements) to function and grow. Urban landscape trees can be growing in soils that do not contain sufficient available nutrients for satisfactory growth and development. In these situations, it may be necessary to fertilize to improve plant vigor.

Fertilizing a tree can improve growth; however, if fertilizer is not applied wisely, it may not benefit the tree at all and may even adversely affect the tree. Mature trees making satisfactory growth may not require fertilization. When considering supplemental fertilizer, it is important to know which nutrients are needed and when and how they should be applied.

Soil conditions, especially pH and organic matter content, vary greatly, making the proper selection and use of fertilizer a somewhat complex process. When dealing with a mature tree that provides considerable benefit and value to your landscape, it is worth the time and investment to have the soil tested for nutrient content. Any arborist can arrange to have your soil tested at a soil testing laboratory and can give advice on application rates, timing, and the best blend of fertilizer for each of your trees and other landscape plants.

Mature trees have expansive root systems that extend from 2 to 3 times the size of the leaf canopy. A major portion of actively growing roots is located outside the tree’s drip line. It is important to understand this fact when applying fertilizer to your trees as well as your turf. Many lawn fertilizers contain weed and feed formulations that may be harmful to your trees. When you apply a broadleaf herbicide to your turf, remember that tree roots coexist with turf roots. The same herbicide that kills broadleaf weeds in your lawn is picked up by tree roots and can harm or kill your broadleaf trees if applied incorrectly. Understanding the actual size and extent of a tree’s root system before you fertilize is necessary to determine how much, what type, and where to best apply fertilizer.

Pruning

Pruning is the most common tree maintenance procedure next to watering. Pruning is often desirable or necessary to remove dead, diseased, or insect-infested branches and to improve tree structure, enhance vigor, or maintain safety. Because each cut has the potential to change the growth of (or cause damage to) a tree, no branch should be removed without a reason.

Removing foliage from a tree has two distinct effects on its growth. Removing leaves reduces photosynthesis and may reduce overall growth. That is why pruning should always be performed sparingly. Overpruning is extremely harmful because without enough leaves, a tree cannot gather and process enough sunlight to survive. However, after pruning, the growth that does occur takes place on fewer shoots, so they tend to grow longer than they would without pruning. Understanding how the tree responds to pruning should assist you when selecting branches for removal.

Pruning mature trees may require special equipment, training, and experience. If the pruning work requires climbing, the use of a chain or hand saw, or the removal of large limbs, then using personal safety equipment, such as protective eyewear and hearing protection, is a must. Arborists can provide a variety of services to assist in performing the job safely and reducing risk of personal injury and damage to your property. They also are able to determine which type of pruning is necessary to maintain or improve the health, appearance, and safety of your trees.

Removal

Although tree removal is a last resort, there are circumstances when it is necessary. An arborist can help decide whether or not a tree should be removed. Professionally trained arborists have the skills and equipment to safely and efficiently remove trees. Removal is recommended when a tree

* is dead, dying, or considered irreparably hazardous
* is causing an obstruction or is crowding and causing harm to other trees and the situation is impossible to correct through pruning
* is to be replaced by a more suitable specimen
* should be removed to allow for construction

With proper maintenance, trees are attractive and can add considerable value to your property. Poorly maintained trees, on the other hand, can be a significant liability. Pruning or removing trees, especially large trees, can be dangerous work. It should be performed only by those trained and equipped to work safely in trees. For more information on mature tree care, contact your local ISA Certified Arborist.

The PHC Alternative

Maintaining mature landscapes is a complicated undertaking. You may wish to consider a professional Plant Health Care (PHC) maintenance program, which is now available from many landscape care companies. A PHC program is designed to maintain plant vigor and should initially include inspections to detect and treat any existing problems that could be damaging or fatal. Thereafter, regular inspections and preventive maintenance will ensure plant health and beauty. Refer to our Plant Health Care brochure for more information.


E-mail inquiries: [email protected]


(c) 1998, 2004 International Society of Arboriculture.
UPDATED JULY 2005
 
I believe the rule of thumb is "Is the hole less than 1/3 of the circumfrence of the trunk". There are many factors such as age, species, location of tree, but that is a start.
And I think it looks worthy of saving from the pic
 
As mentioned, have a local pro come out for a hands on look at the tree. What I've done in the past with a hole like that is to see how deep the hole is, drill about a 1 in hole at an upward angle, from below the wound, and insert a pipe to drain the hole. This will help to keep it a little drier and slow down the rotting processs. Let the pipe stick out a bit because the tree will grow around it in a few years. Then at some point in the future, when the tree has to come down, for whatever reason, the person doing the cutting will be cussing me for cutting into the pipe and ruining the chain on his best saw.

This is old technology and many no longer use it. They say that drilling the hole creates more damage to the tree. Yet, the same person will reccomend to put cables higher up in the tree, to support weakness caused by the rot lower down, where you have to bore holes into or all the way through the limbs. What's the diference? Best luck on the health of your tree, Joe.
 
May I ask. What would it hit if it did fall? Pic shows a kinda forest around with nil targets perhaps nay cause for concern, just let her go n grow. To best determine which way she may fall, pretend to put somethin of value nearby.

"funk" tseer thats gotta be the best scientific term for enhanced bioremediation endogenous biomass decay.
 
I believe the rule of thumb is "Is the hole less than 1/3 of the circumfrence of the trunk". There are many factors such as age, species, location of tree, but that is a start.
And I think it looks worthy of saving from the pic

:agree2: THE 1/3 GUIDELINE IS A PLACE TO START BUT not to end so good on you to point that out.

"What I've done in the past with a hole like that is to see how deep the hole is, drill about a 1 in hole at an upward angle, from below the wound, and insert a pipe to drain the hole. This will help to keep it a little drier and slow down the rotting processs."

Will it? How do you know? Since most fungi do not grow in water, maybe you are speeding the rotting process by making it damp instead of wet?

"Then at some point in the future, when the tree has to come down, for whatever reason, the person doing the cutting will be cussing me for cutting into the pipe and ruining the chain on his best saw."

aluminum wire lasts, and can mark buried metal.

"This is old technology and many no longer use it. They say that drilling the hole creates more damage to the tree. Yet, the same person will reccomend to put cables higher up in the tree, to support weakness caused by the rot lower down, where you have to bore holes into or all the way through the limbs. What's the diference?"

Fair question: There is a big difference in wound response between wounding young active "symplastic" tissues high in the tree and old heartwood "apoplastic" tissues down low. I used to think all drilling was bad but some is good.

The other difference is; installing support is a proven common sense treatment that is sometimes needed to hold trees together, while drilling to drain cavities is...less proven. ;)

"May I ask. What would it hit if it did fall? Pic shows a kinda forest around with nil targets perhaps nay cause for concern, just let her go n grow."

Good point to look at potential targets, but part of tree risk assessment is to consider the risk of losing the tree itself. Though it is a challenge to put this consideration into a BMP, many tree owners think this way. Arborists, by definition, should too. :biggrinbounce2:

"funk" tseer thats gotta be the best scientific term for enhanced bioremediation endogenous biomass decay."

Actually, funk is less advanced than gunk, but more advanced than punk. Like eskimos with 98 words for snow, us treeguys gotta expand our vocab for rot. :rockn::rockn:
 
Durn, I still haven't learned how to quote just one line.

treeseer, my question is. If you drill into the cavity, there is no heartwood. You are drilling basically through the bark, cambium, and sapwood, all of which is fairly new growth that grows and heals fast, especially in a relatively small Maple like that. Am I wrong? Joe
 
Thanks for the replies guys. The tree is near the area I'm clearing for our future house. Right now I'm up to my eyeballs in wood and would like to wait a few years before cutting it. I realize the best thing will be to cut it eventually but I'm hoping to get a few more years out of it.

I already drilled two holes into the cavity. I had to go it about 6" before I hit the cavity. Should I loosely cover the hole to keep additional rain out but still allow it to "breathe"?
 
If you drill into the cavity, there is no heartwood. You are drilling basically through the bark, cambium, and sapwood, all of which is fairly new growth that grows and heals fast, especially in a relatively small Maple like that. Am I wrong? Joe
Are you assuming that all unrotted tissue is fast-sealing tissue? :taped:

Plus, you left out one thing--breaking barriers is a no-no. :angry:

Spalted, I agree that the best thing is to cut it eventually, but best to wait until it dies...;) You had to drill 6"? Put that drill away--please!

"“All ready,” Codit answered, waving a hammer in one hand and revving a drill in the other. “Time to check for decay and assess tree risk. Checking stem strength is Step 1 in risk assessment, right A.C.?”
Arbor Cop grimaced. “...Codit, let me see the drill, please—but first lock the trigger.” He grabbed the handle carefully, ran his fingers along the 1/8” (3.2 mm) bit, then set it aside. “...stem breakage accounts for less than 10% of tree failures, so risk assessment naturally focuses more on the roots and the branch unions, where most failures occur.”
 
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