CL 5036 Question

[rcooked]

Hello. I am newbie on here and I have a question for you central boiler owners out there. I just this past week, had a CL5036 installed and it's been running since Tuesday. I went out this morning to load some wood into it and noticed that there was some black crap that had run down the front of the unit from where the solenoid and "vent" are in the front. This is the first I have noticed this, and I am curious if others have had any issues like this. It's obviously dark from the burning taking place in the unit, but I am wondering what's going on since it just showed up after a couple of days...

Also - I am assuming that it's pretty much normal that it just smolders inside. Temps on the gauge haven't gone below 170 and seem to flutuate between 170 and 180's. What exactly causes it to cycle and draft in air from the front?

I know, I am moron for asking... Just trying to figure things out since I am new to all of this.

Thanks,

 

[Storm56]

Most likely some creosote. How wet is the wood you are burning? Also this time of year the load on the stove is pretty light so I usually put in a smaller load twice a day rather than just putting in more wood once a day. The stove sets idle quite a bit in the early season and therefore allows more time to smoke inside and build up creosote. When it is under more load and the draft is open more, the stove burns hotter more often and there is less chance for creosote to build up.

Welcome to the site and good luck with the stove. There is a learning curve but after you get the hang of it you will know what to scractch when it itches!

 

[coppersnowblue]

I have the same model. I get the black stuff also seems normal. I don't think it has to do with the wood. I've been burning white oak that has been seasoned for 2 years since I've fired mine up this year and it still happens. My air door opens at 170 and it closes at 180 and usually creeps up to 183 to 185 after it closes.

 

[Windwalker7]

I don't have a Central Boiler but a Shaver instead.

That black watery stuff is normal. I get it too when I first fire it up for the season.


I'm thinking it is a combination of condensation, wet wood and creosote from setting idle longer with warmer weather.


Mine clears up in a week or two.

 

[rcooked]

Thanks guys! This site rocks!

My dealer actually came up tonight to explain everything to me and make sure I understood how to test the water, etc... Really pleased so far with everything! My father in law is giving me crap about cutting wood and how hard it is, but my pay back is only about 4 years and I enjoy the cold weather outside - not too mention the benefit of "sticking it to the man" and that is worth it for me alone!

My dealer said the black crap is pretty much normal - wood might have had some moisture in it - but it's an oak which has been cut and laying at the farm for two years, so should be pretty good. But, I am not worried now.

He told me to make sure I use some ashtrol? when adding wood - preserves the firebox better he says, etc... who knows.

Thanks again guys, very much appreciated by this newbie!

 

[LTREES]

not too mention the benefit of "sticking it to the man" and that is worth it for me alone!

Yeah, stick em. The unit will burn alot better when it gets colder. that wet stuff will dry up. It is from the condensation. No worries. Enjoy the heat,

LT...

 

[Amy Combs Baker]

Most likely some creosote. How wet is the wood you are burning? Also this time of year the load on the stove is pretty light so I usually put in a smaller load twice a day rather than just putting in more wood once a day. The stove sets idle quite a bit in the early season and therefore allows more time to smoke inside and build up creosote. When it is under more load and the draft is open more, the stove burns hotter more often and there is less chance for creosote to build up.

Welcome to the site and good luck with the stove. There is a learning curve but after you get the hang of it you will know what to scractch when it itches!

HELP ,
Hi Hoping someone might be able to help me I have had my CB for 14 years now model #CL 5648SB Its one of the bigger ones , the past three days my wood is just charred , its just not burning, The solenoid noise I noticed sound off the last two weeks , I never here the metal ting/click which I have always assumed was the draft opening and closing on the door to create airflow to increase burning. I also notice lately lots of Creosote however I have been burning green, wetter wood ( as I did not get all this winters wood into the shed. I have burnt wet wood in the past and never had this issue . I believe it could be the solenoid as I did not know until reading the front plate that I need to WD the solenoid . Hoping this helps . Is it safe to open the face plate to spray WD40 by just shuting off the power on the boiler itself or do I need to also shut breaker off ? Will it be easy for me to identify what I need to spray / Plunger , once I remove the cover ? Thank you for your time in any help you may be able to offer.
Ps I can tell the water in the unit is hot as when I open the boiler door and the draft is created after a few minutes I can hear water boiling. At first I thought maybe the cabin was not calling for heat and hence no damper opening , I now know that's not the case as it was 15 below last night and the same charred wood is still in the boiler , not burning.
Sincerely, Amy

 

[blackdogon57]

Wouldn't hurt to have a wore brush handy to clean up the creosote in that area before you spray. Your chimney clean out may also be plugged up as well. Easy to clean out from the back of the stove. Very easy and cheap to replace that solenoid if it has gone bad.

 

[Storm56]

Amy, welcome to the site! First of all what is your water temp as I did not see you state it? Blackdog mentioned the cleanout for the chimney, simple to do. I brush mine out a couple times a season, simple and easy to do. The solenoid for the draft is easy to service and I keep a spare around. It is a simple task to make sure the draft door is free of debris and opening properly when the solenoid energizes by looking at the inside bottom of the door. You can easily service the solenoid by removing the cover. No need to shut the stove down. Let us know how you make out!

 

[Amy Combs Baker]

Wouldn't hurt to have a wore brush handy to clean up the creosote in that area before you spray. Your chimney clean out may also be plugged up as well. Easy to clean out from the back of the stove. Very easy and cheap to replace that solenoid if it has gone bad.

Thank you so much, I kept thinking Saturday night it makes no sense , the circulators are working , the draft on the door is opening and closing, it was almost like it was a draft issue as soon as I closed the boiler door it would go out , I was just left so perplexed . During the night I thought what would choke off the fire ? and it occurred to me exactly what you said , check the darn chimney !!! Made perfect sense as the chimney id really part of the draft system . I could not remember when I cleaned it last, It was so plugged on the bottom !!! I felt so absent minded for not thinking of that sooner ! Thank God as soon as I cleaned it out ,( Almost a half a bucket of creosote later ! It was choked off ) The boiler took right off . Lesson learned on my boiler check list. I am so grateful there was no hole in the system, as I had so much water in the bottom of the boiler, I really felt like the water was coming mostly from the green/wet wood creating condensation from simmering as the boiler was just not able to breath and burning hot enough.... SOOOOOO GRATEFUL I do not have to replace my boiler ! She is 14 years old and I hope to get a few more years out of her. Thank you again for your timely input.
I learned a few new things on your site and so appreciate the knowledge shared.
One thing I read on one of the blogs but can see not seem to find again , was about nitrates . I use Ashtroll in my firebox and check the ph somewhat regularly , but did not know about the nitrates. Could someone explain , I need a test kit ? and the product to use to correct a nitrate issue ? I am worried with age that my pipes inside the jacket of the boiler could be corroding.
* Also would like to note a friend of mine put in 2, 16 oz bottles of a stop leak into the top of my boiler, I did not feel good about adding it, it made me nervous to add it before knowing what was really wrong and as I mentioned I did not feel like it was a leak. Now i am worried that the product will clog my radiant pex tubing throughout the floors... should I be worried ?? I believe my system holds 385 gallon of water so hoping 2 , 16 oz bottles will not effect it .
Also where can I find a schematic of the internal system so I can get a visual of the workings of the inside of my boiler ?
Thank you again for sharing your knowledge.
Happy Boiler, Happy Me

 

[NSMaple1]

So your boiler water runs through your floors & heating system? Are you sure about that? There should really be a heat exchanger in between them, or actually between the boiler and the rest of the heating system, to keep them separate. What do you have for backup heat?

Also, it is pretty important for long boiler life, to keep return temps above 140°. Extended periods of return water colder than that will make all kinds of creosote condensation in the firebox. Moisture in the firebox is not a good thing.

(Possibly opening cans of worms there....)

 

[Amy Combs Baker]

Wouldn't hurt to have a wore brush handy to clean up the creosote in that area before you spray. Your chimney clean out may also be plugged up as well. Easy to clean out from the back of the stove. Very easy and cheap to replace that solenoid if it has gone bad.

 

[Amy Combs Baker]

Thank you Blackdog57,
Was exactly that the chimney was plugged with creosote, silly me.
Thank you for your input .
Happy Day , Amy

 

[Amy Combs Baker]

So your boiler water runs through your floors & heating system? Are you sure about that? There should really be a heat exchanger in between them, or actually between the boiler and the rest of the heating system, to keep them separate. What do you have for backup heat?

Also, it is pretty important for long boiler life, to keep return temps above 140°. Extended periods of return water colder than that will make all kinds of creosote condensation in the firebox. Moisture in the firebox is not a good thing.

(Possibly opening cans of worms there....)

I am not sure if you are addressing the above comment to me. But my late husband and I put our Central Boiler/outdoor wood burning furnace in 14 years ago and our Radiant Floor heating system as well, we chose Radiant Tec out of Vermont. We/I have never had a problem with the system other than replacing the solenoid on the damper a few years ago, and replacing one of the circulator pumps last year. Our system does not require a heat exchanger.
I know water in the firebox is never a good thing and was not ever an issue until I had the back up from the chimney which created a perpetual storm of not burning correctly and hence creating more creosote to attach to the chimney debris, hence a bigger and bigger clog , Cleaned the chimney and she is back up and running . Thank you for your input , much appreciated. Amy

So your boiler water runs through your floors & heating system? Are you sure about that? There should really be a heat exchanger in between them, or actually between the boiler and the rest of the heating system, to keep them separate. What do you have for backup heat?

Also, it is pretty important for long boiler life, to keep return temps above 140°. Extended periods of return water colder than that will make all kinds of creosote condensation in the firebox. Moisture in the firebox is not a good thing.

(Possibly opening cans of worms there....)

 

[NSMaple1]

The boiler & system should really have a heat exchanger, especially if it is heating radiant floor. For one thing, it will keep possibly cruddy but certainly oxygen rich water out of the rest of your heating system thereby protecting the heating system. For another, it will keep return water going back to the boiler warmer (radiant has cooler supply requirements therefore colder return temps) thereby protecting the boiler. The cold return would make condensation in the box worse (condensing creosote might not be particularly noticeable if it accumulates at the bottom under ash but it will accelerate corrosion) and maybe also make your pipe creosote up faster that it would otherwise.

(All that is moot if you have some kind of boiler protection via a boiler bypass loop, but most OWBs that age don't).

Given all that I am kind of concerned about your boiler life or how much it has left, but didn't mean to open cans of worms. As long as you are back up & running that is the main thing.