Steveo_supremo
ArboristSite Guru
That's some funny shhhat right there I don't care who ya are.
A Bucking Question
- Thread starter slowp
- Start date
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I think you have been fed a line of BS. Totally.
This wasn't a troll, but a discussion of bucking. And soap.
Janie, can you put some moisterizer in the soap? Like Dove? I'd like to come up with a Doug fir cologne. I will be taking a chunk to the office. My room is right by the Men's room and sometimes that is not a good thing. They sure spend a lot of time in there....
This wasn't a troll, but a discussion of bucking. And soap.
Janie, can you put some moisterizer in the soap? Like Dove? I'd like to come up with a Doug fir cologne. I will be taking a chunk to the office. My room is right by the Men's room and sometimes that is not a good thing. They sure spend a lot of time in there....
Ramblewood
ArboristSite Operative
There is a company called "Thymes" that makes a great smelling frasier fir glycerin soap as well as dishwashing goop and other stuff . They can be googled to find a local outlet or it can be ordered online . I used it the other day after cleaning out a deer and washing my hands in the snow a dozen times . The glycerin really helps get rid of the sandpaper skin .
And girls really do like the way it makes you smell, even if they don't like the rest of you .
And girls really do like the way it makes you smell, even if they don't like the rest of you .
forestryworks
Addicted to ArboristSite
http://www.juniperridge.com/sumbc_masterpage.htm
These guys have a Douglas-fir incense along with other woodsy smells.
A hippie place.
My mom always gets Doug-fir tip tea from them.
These guys have a Douglas-fir incense along with other woodsy smells.
A hippie place.
My mom always gets Doug-fir tip tea from them.
Ramblewood
ArboristSite Operative
The place I get my vitamins and stuff sells those products . The pretty owner gave me the doug tea to try . Smells great, tastes ok . I got some of the incense today because she was selling it cheap . Takes the smell of chainsaw out of the house .
logbutcher
Addicted to ArboristSite
Geees, this chatter about balsum soap, hairy women is getting so far off the OP I'm going to get frozen chaps again Yukon. :biggrinbounce2:
Remember that most N.H. women shave. (Maine saying, said to be fact based):hmm3grin2orange:
Back to the real world:
We get fir/spruce blowdowns too often -- heavy crowns with added snow and shallow roots in wet ground here in early winter make for a lot of messy blowdowns. Thick branches, multiple hangers, and those thick trunks under tension and compression to buck. Though freeing with bottom cuts works most of the time, bars get pinched. A few wedges pounded into the cut does the job without more cutting to free the saw. ( Not "wedgies" you fools.)
Remember that most N.H. women shave. (Maine saying, said to be fact based):hmm3grin2orange:
Back to the real world:
We get fir/spruce blowdowns too often -- heavy crowns with added snow and shallow roots in wet ground here in early winter make for a lot of messy blowdowns. Thick branches, multiple hangers, and those thick trunks under tension and compression to buck. Though freeing with bottom cuts works most of the time, bars get pinched. A few wedges pounded into the cut does the job without more cutting to free the saw. ( Not "wedgies" you fools.)
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
let's spell it right, . fraser. i might know how its spelled, for personal reasons.lol.;
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techdave
ArboristSite Operative
Maybe this will help explain how to but "spanners" ??
...of get me flamed/razzed LOL.
If the problem you are having is bucking a piece that spans a low spot or goes from a high bank down to a roadbed or trailtread here is one way to do it. Sounds more complicated than it is. Of course size everything up for side bends, widowmakers, landslides or limbslides from the uphill side of the road etc
Method is based on "felling" the log so that the upper end settles down onto the ground (or a log you have placed under the upper end).
But BEFORE you make that "felling" cut you set up your second cut by greatly reducing the diameter of the log where your second cut will be. You make two cuts and take a big wedge out of the bottom of the log. If the log is big enough or the lay is complicated you may have to narrow the log from side to side as well as cutting a wedge out of the bottom.
Then you do the sequence of cuts you would do if you were felling the tree. Take the face out of the top of the log. You are taking the face wide, and about 1/2 way through the diameter. Then undercut to trigger the drop. If the log is big enough cut the offside in about a third so when you do your undercut you are not reaching all the way under the log.
After the felling cuts you have a log or tree laying flat on the ground cut through completely where you made your felling cuts. Where you want to do the second cut is already almost through, and is easy to finish. After the second cut is done you have a piece cut through laying on the fireroad or trail flat on the ground that is only close to the pieces on either side in tow small lines cuz each side already has a wedge out of it.
SOUNDS MORE COMPLICATED THAN IT IS!
Here is a vid of a moderate Cedar I bucked this spring. Look at the span of the log across the trail tread at the end of the first video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veatGBgmbGk&feature=related
Then compare it to the end of the log at the right side of the frame in this video, let it start and then stop it right away for the best view:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEKld0g60FA&feature=related
You can see that the wedge was taken out of the right side of the frame, that is not the remnants of a salami cut.
You can see the log I had the guys stuff under the rootwad so it would not slide down into the trail before I did the "felling" cuts. I ususally can use the wedge from the "second"cut for that if need be.
Sorry I dont have vids of the cuts but I never think to get the guys to film me doing them. Dave.
...of get me flamed/razzed LOL.
If the problem you are having is bucking a piece that spans a low spot or goes from a high bank down to a roadbed or trailtread here is one way to do it. Sounds more complicated than it is. Of course size everything up for side bends, widowmakers, landslides or limbslides from the uphill side of the road etc
Method is based on "felling" the log so that the upper end settles down onto the ground (or a log you have placed under the upper end).
But BEFORE you make that "felling" cut you set up your second cut by greatly reducing the diameter of the log where your second cut will be. You make two cuts and take a big wedge out of the bottom of the log. If the log is big enough or the lay is complicated you may have to narrow the log from side to side as well as cutting a wedge out of the bottom.
Then you do the sequence of cuts you would do if you were felling the tree. Take the face out of the top of the log. You are taking the face wide, and about 1/2 way through the diameter. Then undercut to trigger the drop. If the log is big enough cut the offside in about a third so when you do your undercut you are not reaching all the way under the log.
After the felling cuts you have a log or tree laying flat on the ground cut through completely where you made your felling cuts. Where you want to do the second cut is already almost through, and is easy to finish. After the second cut is done you have a piece cut through laying on the fireroad or trail flat on the ground that is only close to the pieces on either side in tow small lines cuz each side already has a wedge out of it.
SOUNDS MORE COMPLICATED THAN IT IS!
Here is a vid of a moderate Cedar I bucked this spring. Look at the span of the log across the trail tread at the end of the first video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veatGBgmbGk&feature=related
Then compare it to the end of the log at the right side of the frame in this video, let it start and then stop it right away for the best view:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEKld0g60FA&feature=related
You can see that the wedge was taken out of the right side of the frame, that is not the remnants of a salami cut.
You can see the log I had the guys stuff under the rootwad so it would not slide down into the trail before I did the "felling" cuts. I ususally can use the wedge from the "second"cut for that if need be.
Sorry I dont have vids of the cuts but I never think to get the guys to film me doing them. Dave.
techdave
ArboristSite Operative
That should be Cut "spanners"
totally flat on the ground is a different kettle of fish then, isn't it.
totally flat on the ground is a different kettle of fish then, isn't it.
Ramblewood
ArboristSite Operative
I spelled it the way they spell it on the bottle .
You and the doctor from"Cheers" may spell it differently .
Terminology
OK, this is not a troll. I am pretty much self taught. So I don't know the names of what I'm doing. I've asked questions of the fallers I'm around, but I have never heard the term Salami Cut. The only place I've heard it is on this forum. So, without straying off the topic, could somebody please tell me what that is? Is it just going from the top down?
To update, the problem with that log was getting it to separate enough to roll off the road, without any tools or cables or machinery. Once again, the size of the chunks was dictated more on where I could get my saw in at the bottom without hitting the pavement. Those little gaps.
I was hoping there was a method other than what I did, which was widen the kerf so there was room to get the chunk moving. It was raining hard, and I wanted to get the road clear in a hurry.
OK, this is not a troll. I am pretty much self taught. So I don't know the names of what I'm doing. I've asked questions of the fallers I'm around, but I have never heard the term Salami Cut. The only place I've heard it is on this forum. So, without straying off the topic, could somebody please tell me what that is? Is it just going from the top down?
To update, the problem with that log was getting it to separate enough to roll off the road, without any tools or cables or machinery. Once again, the size of the chunks was dictated more on where I could get my saw in at the bottom without hitting the pavement. Those little gaps.
I was hoping there was a method other than what I did, which was widen the kerf so there was room to get the chunk moving. It was raining hard, and I wanted to get the road clear in a hurry.
They are talking about angleing the cut instead of making it at 90 deg. to the log. If you see that one end of the log will remain stationary and the other end will drop after the cut, you can angle your cut ever so slightly and it will drop free. Angle it the wrong way and they will lock up tight.
Thank you. 
flushcut
Addicted to ArboristSite
Most of the time you are bucking a log for the mill or firewood you try and get it as square possible. A salami cut is a cut that is at a diagonal to the trunk producing a spear point more or less. I think what you have described in your OP is the tree being compressed, closing your cut after it is made. Using a salami cut allows the tree to slide passed itself as said above sometimes fast.
forestryworks
Addicted to ArboristSite
lol, the Fraser Fir was named after John Fraser, the Scottish botanist, not Frasier Crane
I probably made a terminolgy booboo, but there are different degrees of a "salami cut" .
So slight as to hardly be noticable to let the saw log drop free from the root wad or whatever it is supported on. A more extreme angle is needed on an almost verticle hung up tree.
So slight as to hardly be noticable to let the saw log drop free from the root wad or whatever it is supported on. A more extreme angle is needed on an almost verticle hung up tree.
Thinking upon this topic, while washing dishes, I realize that the Salami Cut was shown to me as The Secret Trail Opening Cut. I have not used it enough to figure it out on my own. I'm a bit slow and have to do things a few times.
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
lol, the Fraser Fir was named after John Fraser, the Scottish botanist, not Frasier Crane
and simon fraser , for u canuck's. and me.
joesawer
Addicted to ArboristSite
It seems that many people still do not understand that there are times when the top of the tree is trying to get closer to the bottom of the tree. and there is nothing but compression all the way around the log.
This pressure can be tremendous. and a buck can be completed using some skill and reaming. But without a machine you will never get square bucks apart. If you cut one buck at a sharp enough angle for them to slide past one another you can release the tension and buck as normal.
But use caution as with any buck you can release a lot of energy and tree movement.
This pressure can be tremendous. and a buck can be completed using some skill and reaming. But without a machine you will never get square bucks apart. If you cut one buck at a sharp enough angle for them to slide past one another you can release the tension and buck as normal.
But use caution as with any buck you can release a lot of energy and tree movement.
Greenwedge
ArboristSite Operative
Slowp, I understand exactly what you are talking about and do have a cut that will work for you in this situation. The problem is that both ends of the log are holding the chunk you cut out and preventing it from falling or chunking out.....correct? I run into this situation all the time chunking out Blowdown from standing trees I want to cut. Being that the chunks want to fall down start your cut on the underside of the log. Hold your saw so that your bar is at a 45 and cut up 3/4 of the way torward the top.....depending on the size and degree of bind, then from your 45 cut, take out a face cut. Know you got a big ugly angled face cut on the underside of the log.......Ok, now, drop the saw and start hopping up and down on your left leg and try to put your right heel on your left shoulder. If this is somthing you cannot perform, then just pick the saw back up and start kerfing the top of the log at the same angle of your face cut in the underside. This will work well for you and if you get hung up while kerfing the top just thump it with your falling axe and it will fall right out. After you get done with this procedure let me know if it works.......I've never tried it! Just kidding, I promise it works well.
