oil mix......to do or not to do

[gearheadgtp]

hello again people, I always get great answers here so heres my current question, this time on mix oil. From all the knowlage ive acumulated im running 40-1 in just about everything i got whether its 32-1 or 50-1, i always run a good quality full or semi synthetic oil in my 2 stroke machines.....generator, wackers, blowers, saws(stihl echo craftsman, etc.) so far ive been running mostly the stihl synthetic in my machines but its a little pricey.....i recently sold my dirtbike(01 kx125) and i got a full bottle of oil left. Its a bit cheaper and it comes in bigger bottles so i need some input on whether to switch all my machines over to it. Im just gonna list everything it says on the bottle... Its maxima super M, high peformance oil, ester based racing formula, premix only, advanced smokeless formula.....do you think i should stick to stihl oil or switch ((got the oil from motosport.com))

 

[Boogieman142]

I run klotz super techniplate in all of my saws at 32:1. If its castor bean oil than be careful as it burns a little more dirty.

 

[Boogieman142]

just looked up some on it, i'd say go for it.

 

[fearofpavement]

Oil gas mix questions to 40 people will get you 50 answers. I think that most important is to make sure the fuel is mixed. What brand of oil you use will garner many opinions but I think there really isn't that much difference in performance. I mix a 32:1 ratio for all my 2 cycle stuff. I use all brands of two cycle mix and even outboard oil and have never had any engine problems. I would never mix the outboard oil at 50:1 but at 32:1 it seems to work just fine. I have probably used 10 different brands and types of oil and don't really pay much attention to what it is but am very sure I mix the gas and I have a special type of can that I only put mix in and nothing else. I have about 25 different fuel cans but only two that get the mix and they are identical and well marked.

 

[thejdman04]

As long as it says it is 2 stroke oil for air cooled engines go for it. I personally use Quaker state oil, because it is cheapest and I can get it in quart bottles. I don't think that Quaker state is the best by far but has always worked for me. I have never had an engine fail prematurely. It is debatable if you can maybe squeeze a few more hours out of a saw because you ran either Stihl or Husqvarna oil. I personally have run many saws many hours and have never had one failure that I thought was premature. As long as you run fresh gas and it is mixed thoroughly and properly any name brand 2 stroke oil will do.

 

[pdqdl]

Use a premium oil from an equipment manufacturer (Stihl, Echo, Husqvarna, Shindaiwa...), mix it to factory specs (usually 50:1), and put it in everything two cycle. The cheaper oils don't necessarily lubricate less (at higher mix rates), but they will certainly have a higher ash content, which leads to carbon buildup in muffler ports, rings, etc.

There is a reason each manufacturer want's you to use their oil:
1. Your engine should make it to the end of the warranty.
2. They keep you coming into the store to buy more stuff.
3. They make a little money on the oil.

Save a LOT of money: buy premium oil in 1 gallon jugs or 5 gallon pails, and mix with 50 gallons of gas in a 55 gallon barrel. There is a huge price drop for the oil when you get away from the little plastic bottles.

 

[ronnyb]

If you had a dirtbike you're probably familiar with a Ratio-Rite measuring jug. Just look at the markings on the side for the ratio and amount of gas your mixing. Takes all the guess work out of it.

 

[KD57]

I use Maxima SuperM in all my 2 strokes, 40:1. It is very good oil. I buy it in 5 gallon buckets, and use the Ratio Rite to measure it for mixing.

 

[Saw Bones]

Saving Money

hello again people, I always get great answers here so heres my current question, this time on mix oil. From all the knowlage ive acumulated im running 40-1 in just about everything i got whether its 32-1 or 50-1, i always run a good quality full or semi synthetic oil in my 2 stroke machines.....generator, wackers, blowers, saws(stihl echo craftsman, etc.) so far ive been running mostly the stihl synthetic in my machines but its a little pricey.....i recently sold my dirtbike(01 kx125) and i got a full bottle of oil left. Its a bit cheaper and it comes in bigger bottles so i need some input on whether to switch all my machines over to it. Im just gonna list everything it says on the bottle... Its maxima super M, high peformance oil, ester based racing formula, premix only, advanced smokeless formula.....do you think i should stick to stihl oil or switch ((got the oil from motosport.com))

It's false economy to use "Cheap"oil when you consider the cost of down time and rebuilding or replacing equipment.

 

[North by Northwest]

I use Amsoil Sabre , sure it cost more but is a very fine full Synthetic . Use it in my Husky , Stihl , Pioneers and Snowmobiles and Gas trimmers. 50:1 ratio on all .:mean:

 

[BLUZMAN]

I use the Redmax oil on all my stuff and it has performed well, my problem is what mix to run 40:1 or 50:1, hell, my Shin 488 had 40:1 in the manual and 50:1 on the packaging materials/box so I don't even know about that one and I see a lot of folks on here running one mix so....what mix :msp_confused:

 

[nmurph]

run a good synthetic at 40-50:1. do not run outboard oil as it is specifically engineered for a lower temp range.

 

[o8f150]

i have always used echo power blend in everything at 45:1

 

[Beaver eager]

I use Yamaha snowmobile semi synthetic. Low ash and smells good too. I usually mix 50:1 and add a tiny bit more just in case so it ends up at maybe 45:1. No problems so far and no build up either.

 

[outdoorsman0490]

I run the husqvarna synthetic blend at 45:1 on all my saws/blowers, and at 40:1 when milling. I purchased 4-1gal jugs about a year ago for around $100. I saved my 2 1/2 gal mix bottles, then on a rainy day, refill them from the gal jug using the measuring cup from baileys. Works out well, uses up some down time and saves some money.

 

[ChillyDog]

I've been using Mobil MX 2T at 42:1 (3oz gal) with 2oz seafoam per gallon and just for overkill 1 oz stabil/ gal

 

[nmurph]

I've been using Mobil MX 2T at 42:1 (3oz gal) with 2oz seafoam per gallon and just for overkill 1 oz stabil/ gal

i hope your equipment is tuned accordingly as you effective air/fuel ratio is 21:1.

 

[ChillyDog]

How does 2.5% less gas lean the a/f ratio almost 43%?

 

[nmurph]

it's a fuel to oil ratio (actually any non-combustible liquid). seafoam (2oz), oil (3oz), and stabil (1oz) are 6oz of liquid that don't burn to any appreciable degree. 50:1 ratio has 2.56oz of non-combustible liquid per gallon. you are adding another 3oz of non-combustible liquid, hence the 21.8:1 (131oz/6oz). now, you carb is pulling in a certain amount of liquid (from the fuel tank) and mixing it with a certain amount of air (determined by the position of the needles). the less gasoline in that mix, the higher the air-to-fuel ratio (leaner).
i don't know about the tune of your saw. it might be perfect for he mix you are using. but if it was tuned toward the lean end of the spectrum (many new saws are lean when they come from the factory and the limiter caps can prevent that from being corrected unless they are pulled and adjusted, and many dealers won't do so) at 50:1, and now you have reduced the amount of fuel in the mix, you may be running at a level that is detremental to you saw. it might not show immediately, but in the long-term, it isn't good.

 

[ChillyDog]

Fuel to oil ratio.... Now we're on the same page.

I understand what you are saying. I had not put the numbers to it to realize how much it changed the ratio from 50:1 to 21:1. I have adjusted the needles on my saws and brushcutter, everything seems good there.

I have a FS80 trimmer and a BG 65 blower that I picked from craigslist that have the BIS fixed jet carb (fixed idle and main jets, with an air bleed screw for the idle). I have reset the metering lever height on those and that seems to make them both run richer. It is a hard way to adjust a carb tho since any adjustment takes me 10 minutes to pull the carb, pull the cover on the metering lever get the straight edge and the calipers to measure it and put it all back together. I bet there is a faster way, but it works for me. I have less than a $80 in both of these pieces so not a huge loss if I burnt them up but still stupid tax if it was due to my mix.

Bottom line, my expensive stuff, I can and have adjusted the carbs.

Thanks for the input, made me think twice about what I'm doing.