339xp carving saw thoughts

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cowboyvet

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First off I am a stihl guy and would love to own one or two of those overpriced ms200's. I was looking at the 339xp and it looks like it would make a great saw for carving. Here is what I know from the specs compared to the ms200. The 339xp is 1 lbs heavier, 1/2 horse more power, and about $200 cheaper. Does anybody have any experience with this saw or know of any good or bad points. Looking for good info and not just brand loyalty. I'll be putting a 12" dime tip on whichever saw I end up with. If the reasons are good, I would rather spend the extra $ but not looking to just waste money.
 
Any husky you buy in the xp model will be a good saw.I ran the 335xp for years and the only problem I had was the spark plug cover would break off the back of the saw and you would get ZAPPED!!! usually in the leg. I run the stihl 192 now but prolly wont buy another,(slightly underpowered)
 
I found the ms192 underpowered as well and replaced it with the ms200. What a difference! They cut so much faster that extra production could easily make up for the increased price in one week.

I agree, my ms200 is my favorite and I can't imagine not having at least one at all times
 
I'v tried carving with my 334 (same saw less power) I found it kinda hard to control.
Picked up a used ms 170 I like the rear handle for carving.
 
I am going to put my little 2 cents in here on this one only because I have an interest as a wanna be carver to have something to do as I get older.

I run a tree service and we have five of these 200's plus some of the old square bodied 020's that I have revived for doing small jobs. As a pro tree service the 200 is an excellent saw for bucket and climbing work.

I personally would not chose a 200 for carving. I know of one guy who does carve on a semi pro basis and has used a 200. He was not impressed with it at all and says the saw is overrated at least as a carving saw. He told me he can get the same amount of work done with the cheaper models as with a 200.

This carver said that carving burns up saws so fast it doesn't pay to buy a 200 and then you have to add in the cost of those carving bars. This makes sense to me because from what little carving I have done your running that saw at full rpm but it is really not under much of a load like it would be cutting down a tree. You are using the tip of the bar at full rpm for carving instead of part or full length of the bar for cutting a tree limb or a small diameter stem which brings down your saws rpm's to a good working level.

I have talked to other carvers as they find there way to me looking for wood. The general theme for a small carving saw seems to be rear handled, cheap intial puchase price , large gas tanks with good fuel economy and a good carving bar.

It makes sense to me but I am on the outside looking in so if any statement I have made is contary to what a pro carver would have to say I would like to hear those thoughts also.

I have not had much luck with any Husky saw. I am not knocking the brand but the few I have owned a few and they have always been hard starting even after a good warm-up. I would try out more Husky saws if we had a dealer in our area. Stihl's can be tempermental also getting started but once they are warm they at least start on the first pull if they are in proper tune.
 
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you all should have another look at the 192 there only under powered because there so choked out if you do a conservative muffler mod and get the carb set right they out shine the 200 remember there the same motor but the 192 is lighter due to the plastic bottom end

on a side note why would you run your saw at full rpm all the time wile carving
i dont use more then half throttle unless i need to run harder and i am a full time carver ill let you know when i burn up a saw
 
I found the ms192 underpowered as well and replaced it with the ms200. What a difference! They cut so much faster that extra production could easily make up for the increased price in one week.

I got to try a 200 and a 192 last week, both set up with a Sioux dime tip bar and 1/4 pitch chain. The 200 was a carving machine, the 192 just so-so. I love the rapid acceleration and throttle control of the 200. The 192 just felt doggy by comparison. The sluggish throttle response would get real tedious when furring or feathering I'd think. Nice and light, though, less vibes as well.

I also got to see a 339 XP with the same bar and chain setup. The guy plunged horizontally into the end of a pine log with only his trigger finger on the back and one finger holding the front handle up. Tons of power for a small saw, but it feels more like a light blocking saw than a detail saw, even with a dime tip on it. It feels well balanced, but that extra weight just wouldn't make me excited about a little extra power.

I just got a Redmax 3200 (7.5 pounds) for detail work, but I'm gonna get a 200 as soon as I have the money, I love that saw. The 339 just wouldn't fit in anywhere for me. The 200 has power throughout the RPM range, so I see no reason to burn it out by running it WOT when using just the tip. I think I could get almost everything done with just a 200 after the major blocking is done. The Redmax is for when I get better with the detailing, it is one smooth running saw.
 
I got to try a 200 and a 192 last week, both set up with a Sioux dime tip bar and 1/4 pitch chain. The 200 was a carving machine, the 192 just so-so. I love the rapid acceleration and throttle control of the 200. The 192 just felt doggy by comparison. The sluggish throttle response would get real tedious when furring or feathering I'd think. Nice and light, though, less vibes as well.

I also got to see a 339 XP with the same bar and chain setup. The guy plunged horizontally into the end of a pine log with only his trigger finger on the back and one finger holding the front handle up. Tons of power for a small saw, but it feels more like a light blocking saw than a detail saw, even with a dime tip on it. It feels well balanced, but that extra weight just wouldn't make me excited about a little extra power.

I just got a Redmax 3200 (7.5 pounds) for detail work, but I'm gonna get a 200 as soon as I have the money, I love that saw. The 339 just wouldn't fit in anywhere for me. The 200 has power throughout the RPM range, so I see no reason to burn it out by running it WOT when using just the tip. I think I could get almost everything done with just a 200 after the major blocking is done. The Redmax is for when I get better with the detailing, it is one smooth running saw.

Almost forgot about this thread. I already made up my mind on the ms 200 a while back but this is one of the best answers I've seen. A true side by side comparison and experience with all three. Thanks for the info. The Redmax is highly rated but the parts and availability seem to be a little scetchy. I would get one if they would start selling them again with some reliable parts availability.
 
The Redmax is highly rated but the parts and availability seem to be a little scetchy. I would get one if they would start selling them again with some reliable parts availability.

So how do you like the 200? I got the 3200 as a BD gift. I could have had the 200 if I asked for it, but I wanted to get the Redmax before it was unavailable. Now I find that the 200 will soon be unavailable, so I have a bit of remorse about my decision.

I called a couple local dealers who will sell me just a 200 power head for about $580 (still a lot of dough), so I may make a few quick carvings and wholesale them out to get the dough for a couple 200s before they're all gone. Lucky for me I'd not trying to make this into a full-time living at the present so I can afford to be extravagant with my profits.

From the saws I've tried so far, if there's one saw that can do just about everything it's the MS200. If you're just doing small (salable) stuff you might never need to reach for another saw. I watched Dave Tremko carve out a small bear in a stump in 5 minutes with one and it looked pretty decent to me. Bottom line for me, I'd hate to be without a 200 in the long run.
 
I've seen a bunch of posts from carvers upset about losing the MS200. The MS201 (yes there is a rear handle version) replaces it with the same weight and power (as close as matters), more torque, better anti-vibe, better fuel consumption and emissions, better air filtering, etc. It will probably end up being a better saw than the MS200. That is one saw in the line that safely will always be available. No reason to panic.
 
Haven't been checking out this forum lately. In that time, I went ahead and got a Husky 339XP. I was getting my 357 overhauled at a local shop and the owner heard me talking about carving and asked if I would be interested in his own lightly used 339. I gave it a try and it was love at first plunge. $325 and the thing hasn't had more than a couple tanks of gas through it yet.

I find it to be more powerful than the MS200 and only about 1/2 pound heavier. But... it actually feels lighter in my hands because of the balance. I could carve for hours on end with this saw, but I'm using my new 346XP (also an awesome saw) for most of the work and saving the 339 for the detailing with a 12" quarter-tip carving bar and 3/8" lo-pro (I had the rims on both saws switched from .325 to 3/8).

The 32cc Redmax is a nice little detail saw, but the 339 has way more power... tons more. Very little weight gain to deal with for all that power gain, and it is every bit as smooth. Vibes are nearly nonexistent on my copy. I may try a 10-pin 1/4 pitch rim on it and try it with a dime-tip.

I feel silly posting how much I like this saw after dismissing it above without really trying it, but I feel I need to set my comments straight. IMO it is nicer than the MS 200 and over $100 cheaper. Plus, the rim sprockets make it really easy and cheap to convert it for carving. My favorite carving saw out of nine I now own, it's just that delightful for me to use.
 
Congrats on the new saw at a great price. I won't anything bad about the 339xp. I think it is a good saw with lots of power. I absolutely love my ms200. I use a 12" dime running 1/4 chain on mine and it has plenty of power. I like the small size and feel of it. There are several good saws out there and I think it boils down to personal preference.
I did some playing around with the 3/8 vs .325 chains on the same saw in the same wood. I felt the best chain I could find was .325 semi chisel. It cut the best in carving conditions and left the smoothest finish on the wood. I'm still playing around with chains and think I've just about found the right formula for 1/4 chain on a dime tip. I'll post a full sharpening post on how I'm doing my 1/4 chain for tip cutting when I get all the bugs worked out. So far it is smooth and fast cutting.
 
yes the 339 came after the 336 its not a top handle like the 334/335. they make great little carvers! I had a 334 and sold it after demoing a 336!
 
as a newbie to chainsaw carving... i read through this post while searching for information on a good saw for chainsaw carving...

i searched and searched for a ms200 NON-T in california... Nothing.

i even looked at the other carving saw that comes pre-setup, but i think that one isn't available anymore...

i considered the ms-211, but the slightly extra weight detoured me...

considered the carving packages @ bailey's... still too big-ish.

finally caved in and needless to say, i just ordered a 339xp, 12" dime tip, 2 chains, 1/4 pitch sprocket, bearing, and a dvd and a book....

...funny thing is all the dealers in california said that the 339xp isn't available here... but i haggled a guy in a more wooded state to let me order one :-D

my theory is, i could have bought a cheaper/used saw... but then i would just end up having to replace it... i did the same thing when i ordered my first saw (ms280 --- Love it, still wish i could figure out the muffler mod)... and i've paid for that saw already in wood i've gathered :-D

thanks for all the advice in this forum post... i think in the end it will pay off.

i wonder if this saw would be light/comfy enough to skirt trees...
 
ifanyone else is looking toget into carving i have a nice 336 with less than 3 hours on it i would part with

thanks
 
i just ordered a 339xp, 12" dime tip, 2 chains, 1/4 pitch sprocket, bearing, and a dvd and a book....

i wonder if this saw would be light/comfy enough to skirt trees...

You are gonna just LOVE that saw, dude. Or dudette... can't be sure, my wife's a carver, too.

I'm thinking of putting my 12" Oregon dime-tip on mine and running 1/4 pitch chain. You might try that setup for a while and see how it goes, but a 1/4 pitch 10-pin balanced rim sprocket is available in small spline, and that is the same size as a 3/8 7-pin rim. Give you higher chain speed and put some nastier claws on that little tigress.

The 339 may not be the perfect pruning saw, but it feels real light in the hands and has a nice, nimble feel to it. Real low vibes, too. I mean just about the smoothest feeling saw I've tried. You'll know soon enough 'cause now you own one.

For just opening up a tree for better fruit production, trimming away small sucker branches and such, my choice would be the RedMax 3200 EZ... if you can find one. I already own one, so it'd be a natural for real small stuff. It's ridiculously light for it's power, and is a saw you can use all day without ever getting tired.

Both are first-rate saws, but I always use the smallest saw that will get the job done just as quickly for another reason. No saw lasts forever. Why use up a $500 saw when you can use up a $350 saw?
 
for anyone who is looking at this saw in the future... don't forget part number 503789203 (oil pump pinion) if you switch to 1/4 pitch - i didn't know that i needed that part and the 2-3 different people i talked to while setting up all these orders to get the saw, bar, sprocket, etc didn't mention i needed that part. ARGGHHHH!!!!!! can't find it in stock anywhere either...

fastest i got it to get sent is by monday :-/ oh well.

great running saw though, i used the stock bar to start carving on some junk wood i had laying around to get used to it's weight, etc.
 
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