Home made service tools...What have you made?

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Over the time I've been a member here I've seen a few service tools made by people on this board, stuff like a chainsaw vice/mount sawchain vice for sharpening on or a vacuum testing rig and was wondering what else you folks have made.

There's been some excellent ideas I've see so far so there must be more.
Pictures and a bit of a description would be good.
I did a search with not much in the way of results but if there's already a well populated thread with all this on please point me in the right direction.
Regards Scott.
 
I made my own Husky 350 clutch removal tool out of a cheapo Taiwan 19mm socket. Dremel and cut off wheel did the work, lots of oil to help keep the socket cool too.

Will post a pic soon.
 
Ask and you shall receive.

AS "TOOL FORUM" thead.

That's a good thread and believe it or not I think its the first time I've seen it (not been on here for a few months) but its not specifically aimed at home made chainsaw service tools.
There are some great ideas in there though, just slightly diluted by the other tools.
 
Hillbilly homemade crank pusher...to split cases.
Kinda rough looking, but it works! :msp_thumbup:


132837d1271095562-440-crank-pusher-jpg
 
plugology

View attachment 180053View attachment 180053
from the right:(can't hep it, i'm lef hamded)
-the original 14mm end on my comp. tester w/too long threads.
-short thread plug based adapter w/schrader valve and 1/8"NPT X 1/4" NPT adapter sealed w/yamabond
-12mm long thread adapter for a yamaha outboard project
-hose barb adapter for press./vacuum testing
-grease gun adapter, just in case
i found that cutting around the rolled shoulder w/cut-off wheel, the insulators tapped out easily in one piece.
 
180053-chicks-frog-tilly-hs-138a-003-jpg

from the right:(can't hep it, i'm lef hamded)
-the original 14mm end on my comp. tester w/too long threads.
-short thread plug based adapter w/schrader valve and 1/8"NPT X 1/4" NPT adapter sealed w/yamabond
-12mm long thread adapter for a yamaha outboard project
-hose barb adapter for press./vacuum testing
-grease gun adapter, just in case
i found that cutting around the rolled shoulder w/cut-off wheel, the insulators tapped out easily in one piece.

Great stuff, I've knocked up something like one of those myself so its good to see other designs.
Might have a go at making a piston stop and a dial gauge one at some point as well.
DSC00936.jpg
 
grease gun adapter, just in case


That works for moving a seized piston. must be at TDC or above transfers on a two stroke. On a 4 str, back off the valve adjusters so valves are closed. Fill the cyl with penetrating oil, or the ATF/acetone mix, (air is compressible and can be dangerous if something finally lets loose or breaks) screw in the adaptor, and use the grease gun to move it. 500-1000 psi with some work. Mess to clean up, but I have moved a couple badly rusted pistons in 4 strokes, and one seized up cast iron bore two stroke. Generally, once it moves, the pentrating oil can work down and life gets better.
Some cats and excavators use a grease filled cylinder to move the track adjusters by using a grease gun.
 
grease gun adapter, just in case


That works for moving a seized piston. must be at TDC or above transfers on a two stroke. On a 4 str, back off the valve adjusters so valves are closed. Fill the cyl with penetrating oil, or the ATF/acetone mix, (air is compressible and can be dangerous if something finally lets loose or breaks) screw in the adaptor, and use the grease gun to move it. 500-1000 psi with some work. Mess to clean up, but I have moved a couple badly rusted pistons in 4 strokes, and one seized up cast iron bore two stroke. Generally, once it moves, the pentrating oil can work down and life gets better.
Some cats and excavators use a grease filled cylinder to move the track adjusters by using a grease gun.

All good info, thanks.
 
demographic- thanks for getting my pic up, don't have the hang of it yet.

kevinj-good tips on using the greasegun, esp. filling with oil.
thanks to all. . .
 
Here are a few pics of the clutch removal tool I made. It's best to have the cylinder off and put a big flathead screwdriver in between the counterweight on the pto side and the crankcase... then use this on a 1/2" drive ratchet, apply tension to the screwdriver to hold it in place, hold the saw down, and pop the clutch loose. :cheers:

attachment.php


attachment.php


Used a Dremel with a cut off wheel. Took a little time to make it fit good, but worth it in the end. :)
 
Here are a few pics of the clutch removal tool I made. It's best to have the cylinder off and put a big flathead screwdriver in between the counterweight on the pto side and the crankcase... then use this on a 1/2" drive ratchet, apply tension to the screwdriver to hold it in place, hold the saw down, and pop the clutch loose. :cheers:
Used a Dremel with a cut off wheel. Took a little time to make it fit good, but worth it in the end. :)

Good one, plus being European I often find that the SAE sockets that come with most sets aren't much use to me (metric being almost ubiquitous over here) so its something to do with them other than use on threaded bar as pullers.
I must have repped you a while ago so I can't do it again yet.
Thanks for posting the pictures.
Scott.
 
Stihl 08 Clutch Puller

I made a couple of these one for myself and one for a buddy of mine. They work on the Stihl 08, TS350, TS360 amongst other models.

<img src="http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/180180d1302902823-sam_0777-%5B1280x768%5D-jpg" /img>
 
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