Bought and installed new Englander NC30

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walexa07

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Through 2 months of trying to get a Sutherlands to order me a NC30 (they don't stock them for the southern states) I finally got my hands on one last thursday.......899 plus tax, and a blower for another $160. Bought a Samson Duravent kit to get through the roof and attic, 6 foot of single wall 6" pipe, and 6 foot of triple wall pipe to start at the ceiling and go through the roof. Also had to get one of those floor mats that are covered in metal to protect the floor from the heat. All total I spend around $1500.

Anyway, Friday afternoon I removed the firebrick and door from the stove and my cousin and I were able to carry the stove from the front porch and into the house and sit it on the barrier mat in the proper location. I used a plumb bob to mark the ceiling, cut out the ceiling, and install the support box. Cut a few inches off one of the 6" single wall flue pipes and installed them on the stove and into the support box. My cousin used to roof for a living so he came over and cut the hole in the roof and we finished securing the support box to the rafters and installed the triple wall flue pipe etc. 30 minutes later I am burning wood.

I think I am in love with the new stove........some of the welds inside the box didn't look to hot, but other than that I am impressed with the build quality. I installed a damper in the top of the first 2' section of single wall flue pipe, and played with it through the rest of the weekend but not sure how much benefit I will see from it, as most of the fire control occurs from adjusting the air inlet position. It was down to 56 degrees in the house when I built a fire around 7 o'clock, and by 9 o'clock we had it up to 68 degrees and climbing........my temp sensing wall clock is 35 feet away from the stove.

One recommendation............set the wood stove in a safe location to burn in, add a few pieces of single wall flue pipe to get some draw, and burn a good hot fire in it before you install it in the house. The way we did it caused it to create lots smoke from the paint getting hot.......we had to keep the front and back doors to the house open for 30 minutes at a time to vent the smoke outside.

Anyway, it has been low 30's at night and 50's in the day since it was installed and I am easily able to keep the house very warm. And the firebox is nice and big compared to the ZC20 buck stove insert I have been using. Lots of room to fill up with wood.

I've never installed a wood stove, but this wasn't too hard.........the worst part was getting covered in insulation cleaning a spot out in the attic for the support box to come through. We went through about 4' from the eave of the house so it was real tight working in that short of an area.

Couple questions.........I went with the recommended spacing from the flue to the wall and the stove is a little closer to the walls than the mfg recommends and the walls are getting pretty warm........what is the best looking material I can put on the walls to keep them from getting too hot? Also, the support box was too close to the roof to add the insulation box on top of it..........what can I pack in the support box to prevent birds/mice from building a nest there causing a fire hazard? Will fiberglass insulation be ok? After getting a real hot fire going I got in the attic to see how hot any of that stuff got and it was cold to the touch, but I just want to make sure and be safe as possible.

Waylan
 
Please read

Waylan please be sure to read the manual that came with your stove. There are pretty critical clearances you need to follow with this stove. Plus your hearthpad needs at least 1.5R value. Materials that can be used to protect your wall would be a layer of micore300 insulating board then a layer of durock cement board followed up by tile, brick or stone. Continue reading this site and I am sure you will find the information you need. Also there is another site with a ton of information ***.hearth.***.
 
iside picture

Englander NC30


I am very curieus about the inside of this stove, how is the secondairy air implemented, I can nowhere find a picture of the inside of this stove, maybe you can help me with a link or your own picture.

thanks in advance
 
I would always go with what the manufacture recommends if not you WILL have issues. As for your damper it is really not needed with these EPA model stoves. It may do more to create creosote then anything. Some people still use them but it would really depend on your setup aka too much draft. The NC30 is a real nice stove and will give you many years of trouble free heating.
 
I have a stove equipped with burning tubes and it works very nice but maybe it can better, also a window clean is now inserted.

see the burning, flue temperature was 180 degrees most it is around 200 degrees never higher in the stove a lot of stone channels made
so it stays very warm for a long time, non advance is, it is nog easy movable.

YouTube - ‪Video-0004.mp4‬‏

colour of the flames are blue orange but can not be seen on the mobile phone recorder, this not very good quality, bad colours but I don,t have something else.
 
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Thread grave yard :hmm3grin2orange: I sure do love my NC30, it really does an awesome job at keeping my entire house nice, and toasty.

Stove.jpg
 
graveyards are full of live, death don,t exist, it is only in our minds.

oke my stove a french Supra 20 years old wil now build in afterburner who has still be perfected, a friend who is nature scientist go calculate the pad and surface to prehead the air, he say under the firebed and a line around it wil do it perfectly, oke that is what i do this summer.

Foto-0033.jpg
 
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