SawTroll
Information Collector
It isn't, as the the diameter wear will remain the same.
Ime, they last a bit longer than the "prescribed" 2 chain with short chain, but maybe not with longer chain.
Excessive chain stretching?
- Thread starter Elmer Fudd
- Start date
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It isn't, as the the diameter wear will remain the same.
Ime, they last a bit longer than the "prescribed" 2 chain with short chain, but maybe not with longer chain.
Along the lines of this thread, I have a stihl 028 that is stretching chains beyond the adjustment range. The sprocket probably needs to be replaced, and that will be addressed. The chains are always sharp. I hand file between grinder sharpening. I am cutting hardwood and keep the bar out of the dirt as much as possible. I have a 20" bar on it and there is no adjustment to the oiler. Is the bar too long or is my oiler going bad? If so what replacement parts to bring it back? Thanks for the help.
What is happening???
Here is what I found years ago when I had my dealership and worked on far far too many saws.
Your tie straps where the inner pins of the rivets that hold the chain together are most likely losing their temper? How? By overheating.
Most chains, except for Stihl , are NOT prelubed. Least most I have ran across. If they are not packaged in plastic? They are likely NOT prelubed.
So what happens is this. You mount it on the bar and start sawing. Its new chain. Not impregnated through and through with bar oil and so before the saw oiler can feed enough oil to all the inner parts of the chain it right off overheats. This causes loss of temper and now the inner pins and outer plates will start to have slack.
To test you take the chain off. Grab to tie straps about 4 links apart and jerk it back and forth and see how much clearance(slack) is exhibited. Should be NONE or very very little.
Now you tighten the slack chain and keep on cutting. It gets more slack and so you keep this up. You tighten one last time and lay the saw down. Done with cutting
and as it cools off the chain contracts and now it exerts are large pull on the crankshaft. Enough of that and you start to lose you crankcase pressure and therefore the
carb now is not getting enough pulsing. Hard to start. Why is because the pull on the end of the crankshaft via the clutch causes seals to leak and bearing problems. Tremendous force when the chain starts to contract. Also putting more slack in the chain as well due to that lose of temper.
So what I started doing , even with new prelubed Stihl and others was put the new chain in a large coffee can and pour enough bar oil to cover chain. ,Then heat it slowly just enough so the oil penetrates throughly. Mount and run...problems usually solved.
Think about it.
Kadmon
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Fish
Tree Freak
Wow, we have went from a simple worn out sprocket, to preaching about "presoaking" chains in oil?
I guess I need to take a week off!!!!
I guess I need to take a week off!!!!
Fish
Tree Freak
So is that the new "Arboristsite"?
Someone disagrees with a post, and everyone flees, in order to be "PC"???
Kind of like the weedeaterman/diaphram disagreement.......
So, you are willing to let the thread end on a chain soaking stance??????
Someone disagrees with a post, and everyone flees, in order to be "PC"???
Kind of like the weedeaterman/diaphram disagreement.......
So, you are willing to let the thread end on a chain soaking stance??????
fredmc
Addicted to ArboristSite
Soaking chains in oil is that kinda like marinating?
fredmc
Addicted to ArboristSite
Whadda ya mean new arborist site? What happened whilst I was gone?
When I watch a video of someone showing off their cookie saw I am always amazed when the saw is slammed into the log to reduce cutting time. This has to be hard on the chain but maybe doesn't show up because the user is a weekend firewood hack. I will be starting a job after next week's vacation where the crew will be cutting hundreds, maybe 500, small trees per day per saw for a month straight. The job is hot and dirty and the result is much chain stretching. I keep my Granberg tool with me at all times and will take a link out of a chain several times each day. I think this is because of the impact of the chain cutting through one tree and then slamming into the next tree and so on. All the saws have the oiler at the maximum setting and we run about half hard nose bars. I will be using my MS260 Pro and cleaning the crappy air filter 2 or 3 times per day and washing it with Purple Power each night. Pretty much the same with the MS361. I may be a new MS261 because of the better air filter.
fredmc
Addicted to ArboristSite
I got a husky 372 that I can run all day without cleaning the filter. Stihl air filtration must suck.:msp_ohmy:
STHIL claims to pre-stretch their chains. Anyone know how they do it? Run it under tension?
Philbert
Philbert
I see no difference in stretch btw Stihl, Oregon, and WP/Carlton.
I can only comment on saws I own but I feel the 394XP has a better filtration system than the MS660 and that the 357XP has a better system than the MS361. The Husqvarna filters stay cleaner and don't allow nearly as much fine sawdust into the carb.
Oops forgot... I used to own a 371XP also. Its filter stayed very clean also.
Fish
Tree Freak
It has turned "politically correct"!!
If some one makes a post in dis-agreement, the members here run and hide!!!!!
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Hell with that #### Mr. Fisher. I'll argue all night about my presoaked chain on the slammed cookie cutter!!!
Ahhhh . . . back to chain stretch . . .
P - h - i - l - b - e - r - t
P - h - i - l - b - e - r - t
Fish
Tree Freak
Sorry, I just hate for these threads to just drop off while the O.P.'s problem never properly dealt with, newcomers come later and read this
crap and think that we are all "in agreement" just because one reason or another. Or we are just too lazy to press the point.
But, it should be clear, the worn out sprocket is the culprit...
Chain soakers should have their own forum........
Or at least their own "sticky".......
with "tackifier".........
crap and think that we are all "in agreement" just because one reason or another. Or we are just too lazy to press the point.
But, it should be clear, the worn out sprocket is the culprit...
Chain soakers should have their own forum........
Or at least their own "sticky".......
with "tackifier".........
Along the lines of this thread, I have a stihl 028 that is stretching chains beyond the adjustment range. The sprocket probably needs to be replaced, and that will be addressed. The chains are always sharp. I hand file between grinder sharpening. I am cutting hardwood and keep the bar out of the dirt as much as possible. I have a 20" bar on it and there is no adjustment to the oiler. Is the bar too long or is my oiler going bad? If so what replacement parts to bring it back? Thanks for the help.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
In my opinion 20" is too much bar for an 028 even though an 028 with the oiler in good working order puts out enough for that bar.
The worn out sprocket (especially a spur) will wreck a chain quickly. Another thing that will ruin a chain is continuing to cut after dulling.
Pressing the point
So are you saying that rivets never wear and that holes in tie straps never enlarge ?
That a loop with worn tie straps will have the same internal circumference as one with more metal below the rivets?
That there is no difference in wear over the life of a chain between tie straps and drive links made of higher quality alloys versus Harbor Freight reject metals?
How about during use when the chains sag: according to your rationale, the sprocket must get so hot that it is mushy, allowing the chains to dig in deeper, than regain it's shape when it cools ?!?
In case I am being too subtle for you Fish, I am of the multiple causes conspiracy.
Philbert
So are you saying that rivets never wear and that holes in tie straps never enlarge ?
That a loop with worn tie straps will have the same internal circumference as one with more metal below the rivets?
That there is no difference in wear over the life of a chain between tie straps and drive links made of higher quality alloys versus Harbor Freight reject metals?
How about during use when the chains sag: according to your rationale, the sprocket must get so hot that it is mushy, allowing the chains to dig in deeper, than regain it's shape when it cools ?!?
In case I am being too subtle for you Fish, I am of the multiple causes conspiracy.
Philbert
Fish
Tree Freak
No, the stretch is the wallowing of the rivets and straps, as well as the bad wear on the drive link bottoms, which is "severely hastened" by the
worn sprocket as the chain is yanked and pushed by a badly worn sprocket.
Just replacing the sprocket and running the "ruined" chain is a real bad idea, as the bad chain will quickly ruin a new sprocket...
But to merrily chime in that the chain stretch is caused by not 'pre-soaking' makes me angry....
So put on a new chain on a severely worn sprocket, you will have "chain stretch".
Disagree????
Put a new chain on a new sprocket, how will it run????
worn sprocket as the chain is yanked and pushed by a badly worn sprocket.
Just replacing the sprocket and running the "ruined" chain is a real bad idea, as the bad chain will quickly ruin a new sprocket...
But to merrily chime in that the chain stretch is caused by not 'pre-soaking' makes me angry....
So put on a new chain on a severely worn sprocket, you will have "chain stretch".
Disagree????
Put a new chain on a new sprocket, how will it run????
