Pulling logs/sticks with rope?

[PB]

I need to pull some small logs (max 10" dia, 10' long, dry maple) closer to a road. The problem is that they are about 100' off the road, and that much steel cable isn't possible because of money and I don't want to spend that much for something that may get used 2 times a year. The local tool/tarp/rope store has 5/8" SuperPro rope for sale. It is a 3 strand poly rope with a breaking strength of about 10,000 lbs. Would this rope work, or do you think it is a waste of money? I have only used cable and chains for pulling logs so I don't know jack about the characteristics of rope. I am afraid it will stretch over that long distance and the actual breaking strength will be decreased with that long of a rope.

I got a firewood permit from the local timber company and they have piles of seasoned/dry maple but I can't get to it with my truck. Occasionally the logs are stuck on top of a slash pile (they aren't huge piles) and I don't want to be running a saw up there so I would like to pull it down.

Superpro

 

[2dogs]

The rope you refered to should do the job OK as long as it is not damaged. You will need to set a block up as high as possible so the rope never hits the ground, at least 8', higher is better. Don't hitch the rope to the log but use a separate choker, say a 6' piece of heavy rope. Tie the ropes together and figure on cutting them apart when the job is over.

Use a light touch on the throttle and free any stuck logs by hand, not by pulling too hard.

 

[flushcut]

The rope you refered to should do the job OK as long as it is not damaged. You will need to set a block up as high as possible so the rope never hits the ground, at least 8', higher is better. Don't hitch the rope to the log but use a separate choker, say a 6' piece of heavy rope. Tie the ropes together and figure on cutting them apart when the job is over.

Use a light touch on the throttle and free any stuck logs by hand, not by pulling too hard.

I would go with chain as the choker and splice in a thimble with a shackle to attach the two. I mean you are spending the money for the rope might as well try and get every last penny out of it with multiple uses.

 

[2dogs]

I would go with chain as the choker and splice in a thimble with a shackle to attach the two. I mean you are spending the money for the rope might as well try and get every last penny out of it with multiple uses.

Yep, that will work too. Splicing 3-strand is easy as pie.

 

[PB]

Thanks guys, I will pick up some this weekend and give it a go. Any place to get a tutorial on splicing? I have never spliced rope but would like to learn.

 

[Slamm]

I'm not against the idea, but don't just stand there staring at it, I'd hide behind something. I've seen ropes break and the violence that results afterwards is not pretty.

Getting a snatch block mounted high would be a lot better than 100 drag with the rope at say bumper level, the log is just going to plow into the ground and you will test that 10,000 rating pretty quick. See if you can chain a pulley or something in a low hanging tree and run the rope through there.

Here is the best advise, try to find wood somewhere else, LOL. You have a lot of hard work ahead of you and a potentially a smashed back windshield if that rope breaks, LOL.

Have fun,

Sam

 

[hammerlogging]

and a potentially a smashed back windshield if that rope breaks, LOL.

Have fun,

Sam

Throwing a sweatshirt or something over the line will help keep its recoil under control if it were to break

 

[PB]

...........but don't just stand there staring at it, I'd hide behind something.

No #### Sherlock.

If you know of somewhere else I could get dry, seasoned hardwood for $10/cord, I am all ears.

 

[Slamm]

No #### Sherlock.

If you know of somewhere else I could get dry, seasoned hardwood for $10/cord, I am all ears.

Well I see you took that well, LOL.


Sam

 

[AT sawyer]

If you're using an elevated block to get your rope high and keep the forward end of the log off the ground during the drag, you'll need to factor in the extra rope length up to the block and down to your truck when you purchase that line. I assume you're bringing a ladder to set your high block (see posts on ladders in trees). Make sure your block's sheave fits 5/8.

 

[Wilson_tree]

I have pulled lots of logs with the same type of rope you are looking at. Splicing an eye in is the best way to go, or just tie a figure 8 and clip a carabiner to it. Use nylon webbing as your choker and you can choke the log and clip it to your rope with the biner. This set up is lightweight, but the nylon webbing does wear fast, so have a couple spare chokers. It's still cheaper than chain and easier than a splice. If you can't set a block high in a tree, or you repositioning for every pull, try and set up some type of skid cone on the front of the log. I use this:

DR® Power Equipment - Skid Cone

and it works well. It doubles what my horse can pull and keeps the front of the log from catching and jerking the whole system. Make something cheap with heavy plastic or an old barrel. This technique works fine and you will be able to pull the logs you describe very effectively.

 

[BeeVee]

Been using used nylon rope for 40 years to skid tree length firewood out of the bush . Just used a few simple knots, timber hitch, half hitches on the log and a bowline or double bowline on the half-ton ...sometimes used a snatch block if I had a long pull but a short runway(so to speak)I could use the snatch block in different ways ... to get a different direction of pull...to get a faster pull by trying the rope to the log , passing the rope through the snatch block attached to the truck and from there run the rope to a solid anchoring point i.e. another standing tree (the pulled log will move twice as fast as the truck) .The last hook up that I use the snatch block for is to tie the end of the rope to an anchoring point then through the snatch block that is tied to the log you wish to pull out thence back to the truck....now you get a very slow movement of the log but double the pulling power .
I never put a chain or a cable on the log end of the rope(or any part of the rope). That nylon rope had a tremendous stretching ability and would act like a slingshot to any thing that it was tied to ....better than cable or chain .(I make sure that I use stronger newer rope to tie the snatch block to anything and a very high quality snatch block that can't break)
We got the used rope from the paper mill in town...the rope was 7\16 of an inch with a breaking strength of 3000lbs .The used rope was in 150 to 200 foot lengths .
Although I knew how to splice and eye splice it was simpler to just use a couple of common knots(as above)...sometimes using a smooth strong hardwood stick embedded into the knots....knock the stick out the knot was loose...

 

[2muchgrass]

Kind of like this?

I started a thread asking about the very same thing. Here's what I had in mind.View attachment 200287 Please forgive the graphics. I did it with Microsoft Paint.
Bear in mind I'm not pulling virgin growth oak trees 5' in diameter. Just 4' or 8' lengths of 30" maximum diameter. If it is real big maybe just individual rounds. Maybe attach the away end to a tree with a choker and as the skyline(I guess that's what the pros call it) is a fixed length with a hook on each end, the home end I could attach to the receiver hitch on my truck if there wasn't a convenient tree.
The pull line would pass around the bottom pulley and theoretically, as the log encountered resistance, the end of the log would rise as tension from the winch increased.
The log pulling cone is a great idea. I just need to figure out how to make one. A modified heavy duty garbage can maybe.
Then there is just pulling it along the ground like someone mentioned. I'm going to think about that one. That might be a whole lot simpler than my plan.
Anybody have any idea on cable sizes? I thought 3/16" or 1/4" would be plenty for the skyline and 1/8" or a little larger for the drag line. I want to keep it as small as possible because I'm thinking of using a good quality boat winch and you can only get so much cable on one of those.

 

[Sport Faller]

I look at it like this, if you're getting this stuff for 10 bones a cord then a 100' length of 3/8 cable with a bell and nubbin on one end and a loop on the other has already paid for itself after 1 cord, then you can pull as much as you want within reason and you don't have to worry about it frazzling itself apart from rubbing the ground in a couple spots

 

[056kid]

10 dollars won't buy very much 3/8'' cable.

 

[Sport Faller]

10 dollars won't buy very much 3/8'' cable.

I'm saying the 10 bones a cord he's paying the timber company vs. straight up buying the wood (prolly 180.00 a cord min.) or dealing with a ####load of hassles related to ropes and friction

 

[2muchgrass]

I'm saying the 10 bones a cord he's paying the timber company vs. straight up buying the wood (prolly 180.00 a cord min.) or dealing with a ####load of hassles related to ropes and friction

Cable is no where near as expensive as I thought it would be.
http://www.e-rigging.com/store_products.cfm?Subcat_ID=193&Cat_ID=70&Menu_Choice=Catalog
I believe I'm going to order some and try this out seeings as how it isn't going to bankrupt me like I thought it would.
I can get a 500' spool of 1/4" Galv. wire rope with 7000 lb breaking strength for $103.60 plus shipping. I guess the shipping is what is going to kill me.
250 feet for $52.55.

 

[Sport Faller]

Cable is no where near as expensive as I thought it would be.
http://www.e-rigging.com/store_products.cfm?Subcat_ID=193&Cat_ID=70&Menu_Choice=Catalog
I believe I'm going to order some and try this out seeings as how it isn't going to bankrupt me like I thought it would.
I can get a 500' spool of 1/4" Galv. wire rope with 7000 lb breaking strength for $103.60 plus shipping. I guess the shipping is what is going to kill me.
250 feet for $52.55.

1/4 is just going to break your heart, it's weak as hell, 1 good bump and it's going to turn into a missle, you'd be far better off going to your local rigging supply and getting a 100' length of import (make sure you say that, it's not rated for as much weight but it's just as good) cable with either 2 loops or 1 loop and a bell/nubbin

 

[RenaisSAWnceMan]

Cable is no where near as expensive as I thought it would be.
Erigging - Catalog
I believe I'm going to order some and try this out seeings as how it isn't going to bankrupt me like I thought it would.
I can get a 500' spool of 1/4" Galv. wire rope with 7000 lb breaking strength for $103.60 plus shipping. I guess the shipping is what is going to kill me.
250 feet for $52.55.

GET the 250' spool of 3/8" for 91 bucks....makes sense, no...?? Yes....???

 

[Sport Faller]

GET the 250' spool of 3/8" for 91 bucks....makes sense, no...?? Yes....???

sorry, not no, and not yes....... the correct answer is #### yes