Beam size for a splitter
- Thread starter kyrob
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I already have the wedge welded on and nearly all the other parts so I may just go ahead and put it together. If I bend it, I'll change it out with a heavier one. I need to get this thing finished as I keep on busting cord after cord by hand and saying each time I am going to finish it, but haven't yet.
Fifelaker
Addicted to ArboristSite
Putting a plate on the ends will help.
firewood guy
ArboristSite Operative
What size cylinder, pump, engine, rpm, and HP? That beam is WAY small for anything w/ any tonnage.
Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
could always gusset the beam and add a top plate to it
I just used an 18" beam and never thought twice about it
I just used an 18" beam and never thought twice about it
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I have been looking at store bought splitters and the ones (27 ton) that tractor supply sells isn't even a real beam, it's pieces of what look to be 1/4" plates welded together. The particular one I looked at in front of the store, the top plate was actually two pieces and didn't even look to be welded all that well. I know they have strength engineered into them but they just look weak and built to fail.
My thought on the beam is build one the way you want it.!
If you look back on here a couple of pages you will see someone posted about a 3 point hitch splitter that is nearly 50 years old, the beam on that splitter doesn't look strong enough to split one log, never mind lasting five decades. You will notice that the beam isn't really that big and the pusher is small as well. All how it was engineered.
I know some of you don't have the tools or welding knowledge to tackle something like making a beam so look for one that is comparable to a store bought one.
My thought on the beam is build one the way you want it.!
If you look back on here a couple of pages you will see someone posted about a 3 point hitch splitter that is nearly 50 years old, the beam on that splitter doesn't look strong enough to split one log, never mind lasting five decades. You will notice that the beam isn't really that big and the pusher is small as well. All how it was engineered.
I know some of you don't have the tools or welding knowledge to tackle something like making a beam so look for one that is comparable to a store bought one.
mga
wandering
there's a difference in steel characteristics between an "I" beam and an "H" beam (also known as a "W") i forgot exactly, but each one has a different use for construction purposes because of their characteristics.
the H beam has more flexibility than an I beam. i've used an 8" H beam for years now and it has never bent out of shape. there has been times when i could see it slightly twist when splitting tuff crotches that are stringy, but it has never bent.
i recommend finding an H beam..at least 8" wide with at least a 1/2" rib.
the H beam has more flexibility than an I beam. i've used an 8" H beam for years now and it has never bent out of shape. there has been times when i could see it slightly twist when splitting tuff crotches that are stringy, but it has never bent.
i recommend finding an H beam..at least 8" wide with at least a 1/2" rib.
Mine is being delivered this morning
I do most of my work in my dad's shop and a long time friend of his is the local scrap dealer. The scrap yard is only 1.5 blocks from dad's shop so my 10ft W10x45 or 49 beam and a piece of bucket blade for my wedge is being delivered this morning. I was looking at a W10x77 beam but the scrap dealer did not want to cut the 16ft piece down in length. When you look at the beam it just seams so overkill when compared to the other 25ton splitter out there for purchase. I'm building a true 25 ton splitter. I will get some pics this weekend...otherwise I'm just using a toothpick
Brian
I do most of my work in my dad's shop and a long time friend of his is the local scrap dealer. The scrap yard is only 1.5 blocks from dad's shop so my 10ft W10x45 or 49 beam and a piece of bucket blade for my wedge is being delivered this morning. I was looking at a W10x77 beam but the scrap dealer did not want to cut the 16ft piece down in length. When you look at the beam it just seams so overkill when compared to the other 25ton splitter out there for purchase. I'm building a true 25 ton splitter. I will get some pics this weekend...otherwise I'm just using a toothpick
Brian
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
H 'beams' are actually not beams at all, they're columns or more correctly referred to as universal columns or UC. They approximate a square in that the length of the flanges and web are similar. I beams are more correctly called universal beams or UB and resemble an I in that the web is longer than the flanges.
UB's are designed to be uprights. They carry loads best that way. UC's will have the same flange width as UB's (so they can be bolted together) but a much longer web and carry their primary load on the web. UC's dont get much thicker in section as they get taller, and dont get much wider in the flange either. They gain their strength by becoming taller in the web which is their primary load axis.
Neither UB's or UC's have much resistance to twist. Clamp or weld a big UC down to something heavy and you can put quite a lot of twist in it with a 6' bar and your bare hands. If you want a section that has good twisting resistance then you can either go to Square Hollow Section (square pipe or SHS) in a similar size, say, 6" SHS or use a Rectangular Hollow Section (RHS) which will be taller for the same width and have better resistance to bending vertically than the same width SHS.
More important than beams vs square vs columns is proper design of your splitter. Look at where the load will be going and how the stress will be put into the machine. Having nice big heavy sections of steel on a machine is generally a good thing, it gives more stability and lasts longer but makes transport hard. A badly designed machine can still be heavy and flex a lot though. You can add a lot of strength to structure with simple gussets and end plates as already noted. Put up some drawings / photos and people can probably point you in the right direction.
Shaun
UB's are designed to be uprights. They carry loads best that way. UC's will have the same flange width as UB's (so they can be bolted together) but a much longer web and carry their primary load on the web. UC's dont get much thicker in section as they get taller, and dont get much wider in the flange either. They gain their strength by becoming taller in the web which is their primary load axis.
Neither UB's or UC's have much resistance to twist. Clamp or weld a big UC down to something heavy and you can put quite a lot of twist in it with a 6' bar and your bare hands. If you want a section that has good twisting resistance then you can either go to Square Hollow Section (square pipe or SHS) in a similar size, say, 6" SHS or use a Rectangular Hollow Section (RHS) which will be taller for the same width and have better resistance to bending vertically than the same width SHS.
More important than beams vs square vs columns is proper design of your splitter. Look at where the load will be going and how the stress will be put into the machine. Having nice big heavy sections of steel on a machine is generally a good thing, it gives more stability and lasts longer but makes transport hard. A badly designed machine can still be heavy and flex a lot though. You can add a lot of strength to structure with simple gussets and end plates as already noted. Put up some drawings / photos and people can probably point you in the right direction.
Shaun
chopperfreak2k1
Addicted to ArboristSite
i've seen guys use 6" or 8" i-beams and on the outside edges of the top and bottom plate they welded like 4" wide straps from top to bottom every 12" or so. also everyone i have seen this small had the thick plates welded on the ends of the beam.
imagineero
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sorry guys, couldn't edit so had to repost as a quote. Please see the amended post in bold above. It ought to make a little more sense now. Beer can be an evil thing.
Shaun
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