Stihl 026 Stock / Ported Comparison Pics

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ya see what this thread did to me......Now I'm gonna take my 028 apart again and do some more porting! I secretly love it!:rock:
 
Great thread! What chain do you recommend with this saw?
 
Great Thread!!!
I don't know how many times I past this one over because it was not what I was working on! :bang:
Thanks for the bump!!
 
When checking squish on a stock 260 pro, can you go through the spark plug hole or exhaust? Or do you have to remove the cylinder to get the correct reading?
 
The dome piston won' affect the reading doing it that way? Looks like a tapered smash for about a 1/2" then towards the very end about the last 1/8" it gets smaller, is that the squish band to be measured? Long time member but new to this.:D
 
The dome piston won' affect the reading doing it that way? Looks like a tapered smash for about a 1/2" then towards the very end about the last 1/8" it gets smaller, is that the squish band to be measured? Long time member but new to this.:D

The 026/260 has a lip right at the edge of the bore. That's the last 1/8" you're seeing. That is the measurement you want as well.
 
I know Terry, but the money I would save in shipping could add up and pay for a lathe, might take awhile.:D But then I could use the name Full Throttle Saws Inc...:rock: Lol. By the way I got something headed my way to turn around and head your way real soon. Maybe I should have it sent to you first on its way here, Unsure if it needs to be run awhile first though have read different opinions on that...
 
doesnt make any difference. once i go into it it will have to reseal and seat again. personally id rather the saw not be run that way it breaks in the fresh rings along with the port work but thats just me.
 
Hi there Randy
Would it be possible to turn a tapper from the outer edge of the piston inwards,so to have no step which would help with flow.

207196d1321312583-026-port-work-011-jpg
 
Hi there Randy
Would it be possible to turn a tapper from the outer edge of the piston inwards,so to have no step which would help with flow.

207196d1321312583-026-port-work-011-jpg

Yes it would. I doubt it would yield as much compression though.

I've evolved to cutting the squish band on these saws now. With the right shape on a cutter the step can be cut out nicely.
 
Yes it would. I doubt it would yield as much compression though.

I've evolved to cutting the squish band on these saws now. With the right shape on a cutter the step can be cut out nicely.

Are you just turning a "straight taper" on the squish band up to the combustion chamber ?? What angle , 2* ??
What carb work are you doing on the WT194 other than a polish & thinning ? Venturi boring ? re-jet ??

Steve
 
Subbed, might have to read the whole thread agian, way to much info, might have to take notes.:laugh:
 
Are you just turning a "straight taper" on the squish band up to the combustion chamber ?? What angle , 2* ??
What carb work are you doing on the WT194 other than a polish & thinning ? Venturi boring ? re-jet ??

Steve

I've done a bunch of these saws Steve......and I've done them several different ways. I've just cut the protruding band out up the the dome (that's the one that needs the right cutter shape)......I've cut the whole dome out all the way to the combustion chamber on a 2° angle....I've also cut it out flat........I've done a few different popups as well.

On the carbs.........polish, thinning, and a little venturi boring. There's not much venturi to cut in the 194 though. I would love to find a carb that fits these saws without the butchering that it takes to put an 044 carb on them.
 
in my humble opinion the best first mod for an 026 is jack it up and throw a 346xp under the hood and then itll run :hmm3grin2orange:
 
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