I looked in a 500F Formula Ipl, a Partner 5000 (Plus ? im not sure...), a 5500 and a 540 ipl, and in none of them the crankcase had the same number...:eek2:
Partner Chainsaw Thread
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I looked in a 500F Formula Ipl, a Partner 5000 (Plus ? im not sure...), a 5500 and a 540 ipl, and in none of them the crankcase had the same number...:eek2:
I suppose I could rambel for a week but it was like this. I put the jug on and bolted it down w/no gasket and the piston topped out/ would not make a complete roatation. I unbolted it and held it ( the jug )with my hand and it lifted the jug a lot when it came to tdc right up off the base about 1/8 inch plus/minus.
nmurph
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I checked tonight and it is a plastic plate 0.076" and a .0023" paper gasket. The squish is about 0.56".
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nmurph
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The piston is a flat-top 44mm.
Mine is the Golf 246 husky piston like I used in my last 5000 build. You asked if I had a 44mm piston What would that be in thousants? just so i could check .Also am i wrong about this, but the dia is not the problem it seems to be the height? This is however a 325 case but according to most this should not be a problem.
Now the person above you said they had a 0.76 spacer+ a 0.23 paper gasket. That is 0.99 total. I am using 2 --0.45 gaskets totaling (0.90 ) and I have about .21 squish.
Since finding out that my carb was missing the diaphram ( how stupid can i get?) I have been wondering what else may be missing? Yesterday I bought 4 nos walboro wa158 carbs in thier box's.So soon I will just put on a brand new carb and see if this cures the problem.I also picked up a can of carb cleaner and I will spray around the seals and case halfs maybe it is a leak? If you have any other suggestions let me know.
Jeff, I asked the 44mm question, thinking you may actually have the 46mm 325 top end.
If your using the 246 piston, it's 44mm for sure.
If you want one of those new plates, pm me or email me your address, I'll give you one. If it was me, I'd use the plate over stacking gaskets... that can be an air leak waiting to happen.
If your using the 246 piston, it's 44mm for sure.
If you want one of those new plates, pm me or email me your address, I'll give you one. If it was me, I'd use the plate over stacking gaskets... that can be an air leak waiting to happen.
nmurph
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No, Arrowhead asked that question
That is me. The measurement is gave were: 0.076" plastic spacer and 0.0023 paper gasket for a total of 0.0783. The squish is about .056" as best as I could measure with a piece of aluminum wire. What mine needs is a gasket in the neighborhood of 0.035" to yield a tight squish. I will get some pipe solder and recheck those numbers.
If you are vacuum/pressure testing, I use soapy water. Carb cleaner/WD 40 etc will work, but it is impossible to get it behind the flywheel. It does work on the PTO side if you remove the clutch. It will also work along the case seams where you can get to them.
Well murph that's no good,... how would i check the flywheel side? I get lost in 0.00023.00.9.5ww ( ha ha ) Mine is .90 under the jug
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You will need to rig up block plates for the intake and exhaust side and use a pump to pressurize the cylinder...or, you could just replace the oil seals and be done with it. Case seals don't go bad too often, though they can.
I think you meant .09".
I think you meant .09".
I dont know,.. it is 90 ths that's all i know What do you use to pull out the oil seals? a pick of somekind? How do you get them started so you can get a pair of pilers onto them? I will be away from this for a while talk to you later on Jeff
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nmurph
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I made a couple using old straight-blade screwdrivers. I used a cut-off disc on the Foredom (a hacksaw would work as well) and cut a groove about 1.5mm from the bottom. I also rounded and smoothed the bottom corners of the blade so as not to scratch the crank. Slip them into the rubber and twist the slot over the metal portion of the seal, and pull/pry/twist until it pops out.
That sounds like a cool tool,maybe someday you can take a picture of them I like doing stuff like that.
The 325 / 5000 runnnnnnnnns
Well got her going put on one of the new wa 158's on and a little adjusting later and she runs good. But that highlighted a new issue she dont oil so well? I like to put somthing thin and cheep in for the test run so i use my used hydrolic oil from the kubota clean and thin.At first i put in about a cup or so and when it did not oil i checked the oil pump system. And cleaned the oil pick up it was fine though but i blew it out anyway.It all seemed to look ok to me the worm gear is fine as is the small cylinder/gear on the shaft the meshes with the worm gear.
So I said maybe not enough oil in the tank so i filled it and it started to drip freely from the oil passage in the saw. So i went back out and tried again it oozes from the top supply channel a little and oozes freely from the bottom of the cover plate and out through the plate where the bar bolts pass through, but it really does not flow from the top oil channel? It is possible that the hydrolic is to thin to be pushed up to the top channel Iguess?
This saw was absoloutly compleatly empty of oil so maybe when everything gets lubed up she will pump better? All the other saws have had a little oil left in them maybe that keeps the rubber pick up tube and rubber transfer tube moist and that is the key?
Well got her going put on one of the new wa 158's on and a little adjusting later and she runs good. But that highlighted a new issue she dont oil so well? I like to put somthing thin and cheep in for the test run so i use my used hydrolic oil from the kubota clean and thin.At first i put in about a cup or so and when it did not oil i checked the oil pump system. And cleaned the oil pick up it was fine though but i blew it out anyway.It all seemed to look ok to me the worm gear is fine as is the small cylinder/gear on the shaft the meshes with the worm gear.
So I said maybe not enough oil in the tank so i filled it and it started to drip freely from the oil passage in the saw. So i went back out and tried again it oozes from the top supply channel a little and oozes freely from the bottom of the cover plate and out through the plate where the bar bolts pass through, but it really does not flow from the top oil channel? It is possible that the hydrolic is to thin to be pushed up to the top channel Iguess?
This saw was absoloutly compleatly empty of oil so maybe when everything gets lubed up she will pump better? All the other saws have had a little oil left in them maybe that keeps the rubber pick up tube and rubber transfer tube moist and that is the key?
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mama
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Hello where can I get new WA-158 carb for my 5000 plus.
I dont know if walbro still makes that model or not? I got mine from the shop wher i origonally bought my saw in 83 I have always done buisness with the same guy.He called me last week and told me he found 3 new in the box .When i got there he said mistake i found 4 he gave me a price and i took all 4.I guess you could try googling walbro wa 158 ?Hope that helps ya.
mama
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Thanks
Partner Yellow
Yesterday i was in Lowes and saw a can of rustoilem sunburst yellow.I had an old faded air filter cover so i sprayed it, well it really does not match Partner Yellow it needed more of an orange tint i think. Is there a paint that does closer match?
Yesterday i was in Lowes and saw a can of rustoilem sunburst yellow.I had an old faded air filter cover so i sprayed it, well it really does not match Partner Yellow it needed more of an orange tint i think. Is there a paint that does closer match?
nmurph
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Here's what I use. I can usually get seals out without too much problem. Sometimes I need to bend them over and put something under the middle to act as a fulcrum.
I think I'm going to make a puller by chopping the handles off of two screwdrivers and threading the shank. Then tapping two holes in a piece of flat bar for them, and a center hole for a bolt.
