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Studogg99

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Hi came across this site after long hours of searching on the net and just figure its easier asking the pros. My summer work this year is still up in the air as of employment since the companies production has slowed down. I figured i have enough wood from a fallen oak that is at least 4' in diameter and dead standing etc. I am going to sell it for extra cash for college. My question is what will i need for a set up?

I had in mind a bigger saw; my homeowner saw with a 16inch bar is not cutting it, more efficient maul and axe, splitting wedge,felling wedges etc.

Saw would be in the 70cc class since i can make it small or big (ms441 or 372xp leaning to the 441 since seems more dealers in my area and my dad used stihls in the past with my uncle logging so he "suggested" i buy them. but my lil husky has done well.) I DONT have in my area it seems the dolmars and those kind of dealers close by so its husqvarna or stihl.

was looking at a fiskars x27. (i am 6ft so size is not an issue)

what kind of splitting wedges would you suggest and any way to get through the tougher stuff by hand splitting?

much help would be appreciated. Stu
 
Welcome to AS, Stu.

Well... I'll have to leave many details to the pros here. But I can offer suggestions from my limited experience.

Stihl and Husky are fine saws and both will give many years of service. That said, you'll have quite a bit of cashola invested when all is taken into account. Selling firewood is hit-or-miss, especially this time of year. Unless the endevour is to last for years to come, you might be better served to rent a saw and splitter and lay in wood for the season.

If you have standing dead trees, be careful when felling them. Snags can be unpredictable and dangerous. I leave them things for the woodpeckers.

At my age, splitting by hand is asking for a heart attack. Have a 6# maul that's only been used to drive felling wedges. I'll buy seasoned wood before I'll swing an axe or maul. :D

I use plastic Husky felling wedges, got them from Bailey's. They've saved my bacon a time or three. Bailey's can set you up with wedges and other assorted accoutrements as well.

Hope it helps.
 
While I admire your ambition, I've got to question your rationale.

To pay off a new 441 you're going to need to sell at least 5 cords of wood or so, no idea what it goes for in your area.

You mentioned one mutha of an oak.... let's say you'll get your saw paid off from one tree.... and some dead standing....

You sure you've got enough wood to warrant the purchase of that saw?

To make a buck to get you by, I'd be looking at used saw in the classifieds here. Maybe a 460 is closer to your price range, and gets you going with more $$ in your pocket.

Hand splitting is great if you've got the time and back. Never used the Fiskars but its got a great following here.

Good luck.
 
Look for a used saw in the 60 to 70 cc class. If I had only one saw, I would probably choose a 60 cc saw for all-around use.

Rent a splitter once you have a full days worth of rounds available, spend the extra time you have acquiring more wood.

How are you hauling to sell?
 
I have to echo the above statements, to get started in a firewood venture takes time, money, and some experience before you can have much success at making a profit. While there are some folks who jumped in and made a go at it and made some money, the majority of folks who sell firewood are guys(and gals to i reckon) that heat their home with wood, and sell on the side.

On top of that, you have the time element to deal with. Most folks do not want to buy green wood, and even dead standing in most cases is going to take some time to season out. What you invest in tools right now are not going to bring back a return on your investment any time soon. Red oak takes two years to get the good burn, and white oak isnt a whole lot better. In other words, selling firewood is a venture that takes some planning and some investing to be successful.

Dont mean to rain on your parade, but when it comes to big wood it takes sometimes more than just a saw and a splitting maul to harvest a cord of wood. You would be surprised at how fast all the little things that add up besides just the saw and maul. Things like wedges, chain files, spare chains, firewood racks or pallets, etc all add up, and sometimes takes a bit to accumulate. Been doing this for twenty years myself, and I still find myself placing one order after another from Baileys for something or another. If it wasnt for the sheer volume of my business, I wouldnt be making a dime.
Things to consider in your venture.
Fuel. Gas is getting close to that $4 a gallon mark.

Oil. Both mix and bar oil. Expect to pay anywhere from $7to $12 a gallon for bar oil

Wedges and mauls.

Saw files, or big bucks if you take your chains in to be ground.

Saw chains

Wheelbarrow or some kind of cart.Unless you are lucky enough for a strong wind to land those trees back over by the woodpile, you gotta have something to cart the wood around with.

Parts for saws. Lose your bar nuts in a pile of sawdust?There goes $3

Ad for your firewood. Unless you got a good spot by a busy street, you might have to advertise.Craigslist is free, but also comes with an assortment of nut cases, low ballers, and folks that announce they are short on cash after you drop the wood in their driveway.

If you are going to deliver the wood, think about vehicle expenses.Gas, oil, parts, repairs, tires, insurance, wear and tear on your truck.

Personally, if I was in your place I would make friends with a tree service guy who can send one guy over on a slow day to buck everything up for you on the side, and you could hand the guy a $100 for his couple of hours. A good pro can block up a very big tree in an hour if you are there pulling brush behind him. After that tree is blocked, split, and stacked, you will have enough time and sore muscles to give you a good idea if you want to get into this kind of thing. It aint for everyone, and I have bought more than one saw from a feller that went and dropped $800 on a big saw and discovered that by the end of the day he didnt have the strength left in him to keep both ends of the saw up out of the dirt.
 
thanks for the replies guys. i have enough money to start with my tax returns so i could get a new saw.
i looked at used the only one i seen in my classifieds i seen a 372xp two years new bar and chain for $500.
just with the risk renting if it breaks i buy it.

i have access to more wood if need i have 10 acres plus a friend of my dads land. prices around my area seem to be from $60-75 a cord.

i am 19 so hand splitting would be to bad
 
for hauling i have a XUV (john deere gator). i have been thinking of doing this for a while since that oak up rooted its self 2 years ago. i would be working during week possibly this would be something done on the side to get so extra change here and there. i have my pickup (3/4ton)
 
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thanks for the replies guys. i have enough money to start with my tax returns so i could get a new saw.
i looked at used the only one i seen in my classifieds i seen a 372xp two years new bar and chain for $500.
just with the risk renting if it breaks i buy it.

i have access to more wood if need i have 10 acres plus a friend of my dads land. prices around my area seem to be from $60-75 a cord.

i am 19 so hand splitting would be to bad

That seems pretty cheap for a cord....or are you talking about a face cord?
 
Welcome to AS . Nothing wrong with a little sweat to make a couple bucks . Some guys buy everything brand new . I buy most of my equipment used and sometimes abused . But if I were you I wouldn't sink a bunch of money in expensive gear . Buy a decent used saw or two and see if the firewood business is for you . If you can make enough and still like it after awhile then look to up grade your saws and other equipment . I think it might be kinda tough from what your saying a cord goes for in your area .Search the forum on how to buy a used saw , what to take with you and what to look for . I like the cutting , splitting and being outside so it's a good way for someone like me to make a few extra bucks . But as someone who heated with wood for many years it was something I could do with gear I already had .
 
Welcome to AS . Nothing wrong with a little sweat to make a couple bucks . Some guys buy everything brand new . I buy most of my equipment used and sometimes abused . But if I were you I wouldn't sink a bunch of money in expensive gear . Buy a decent used saw or two and see if the firewood business is for you . If you can make enough and still like it after awhile then look to up grade your saws and other equipment . I think it might be kinda tough from what your saying a cord goes for in your area .Search the forum on how to buy a used saw , what to take with you and what to look for . I like the cutting , splitting and being outside so it's a good way for someone like me to make a few extra bucks . But as someone who heated with wood for many years it was something I could do with gear I already had .

for the used saw its checking the inside of the cylinder for scoring,oiler, chain ware, history and general maintenance etc right ?
 
It's your money, go get your self a nice brand new saw and have that thing screaming like a raped ape. You will not regret it, remember, you only live once!
P.S. Don't forget chaps,eye and ear protection.
 
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for the used saw its checking the inside of the cylinder for scoring,oiler, chain ware, history and general maintenance etc right ?[/QUOTE

Right . I like to do a compression test as well , testers aren't too pricey . See what needs to be replaced ( bar , chain , sprocket, air filter ect. ). But I have happened upon saws when I had no tools and had to rely on the drop test and eyes , ears and nose . Search the chainsaw forum and the guys can explain it alot better than I .
I see you were talking about the price per face cord , that sounds a little better . Get some PPE and be safe . Good luck
 
for the used saw its checking the inside of the cylinder for scoring,oiler, chain ware, history and general maintenance etc right ?[/QUOTE

Right . I like to do a compression test as well , testers aren't too pricey . See what needs to be replaced ( bar , chain , sprocket, air filter ect. ). But I have happened upon saws when I had no tools and had to rely on the drop test and eyes , ears and nose . Search the chainsaw forum and the guys can explain it alot better than I .
I see you were talking about the price per face cord , that sounds a little better . Get some PPE and be safe . Good luck

thanks. its just scary stuff buying used 2stroke lol
 
Equipment not logistics

my logical setup is okay its more equipment i need the help with.
splitter i can use my friends. i just need help with what you guys think for a maul etc i like the fiskars and see there are good for soft to medium/hard but not HARD wood. what kind of splitting wedges do you guys use? efficient way of hand splitting.
The two saws i am looking at is the ms441 and 372xp i have a decent dealer coverage for both. just comes to price and acceptability.
 

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