Sealing themo-pex entry @ basement wall

[parrothead600]

I installed a Central Boiler back in December. I made a 5"+ diameter hole in my poured basement wall for the termo-pex to enter the house. The hole is very rough as it was done w/ a carbide drill & knocked the core out w/ a sledge hammer & chisel.
Anyway, what is the best thing to use to seal this area? I used roofing cement, the kind that will adhear to wet surfaces, and I still have a leak. Maybe i need to dig it out again & try to cram more of it in the hole from the outside, now that the inside is "set".
What do you guys use?

 

[confused8122]

I have the same type of hole, only through block wall. I used cement patch around the pipe, then lots of roof patch. From the inside i filled cavity with spray foam. Only installed last fall, but no leaks yet. It also only enters house about a foot below grade.

Also be interested in how everyone else does it.

 

[oneoldbanjo]

You should use Waterplug/Hydraulic Cement. It expands when it sets and makes everything tight. Then coat the outside of the foundation with roofing/foundation asphalt goo.

 

[Fifelaker]

You should use Waterplug/Hydraulic Cement. It expands when it sets and makes everything tight. Then coat the outside of the foundation with roofing/foundation asphalt goo.

+1 on the hydraulic cement but work fast because it does.

 

[Iska3]

You should use Waterplug/Hydraulic Cement. It expands when it sets and makes everything tight. Then coat the outside of the foundation with roofing/foundation asphalt goo.

+1

I used the same stuff. Picked it up at the HW store. I put a primer on the old cement first but not sure I needed to. Easy to use.

 

[russhd1997]

You should use Waterplug/Hydraulic Cement. It expands when it sets and makes everything tight. Then coat the outside of the foundation with roofing/foundation asphalt goo.

I'll second that.

+1

I used the same stuff. Picked it up at the HW store. I put a primer on the old cement first but not sure I needed to. Easy to use.

I didn't use a primer and no leaks. It's been 4+ years since the install.

 

[AIM]

You really want to take the above advice and use Hyd cement. The difficult part for you now will be cleaning ALLLLL the roofing goo out prior to the cement. You need CLEAN concrete for it to adhere to.

If you've never used hyd cement before.
Dampen your hole. I usually wet it down before mixing my cement. By the time my cement is ready the hole has dried up some to be DAMP.
Then mix your cement using only wood or RUST FREE tools. (rust is a catalyst and will make the cement go bang in a hurry)
Mix thoroughly into a pasty like substance. Let sit for a minute or two or until you can make a ball out of it. Start pounding these balls into the hole using your hand or even a hammer and block of wood.
Plan on two batches. Your first batch will likely set up before you are done. The second batch I mix a tad wetter and use it for smoothing.

 

[time warp]

I took mine thru block also. I patched around it with spray foam inside & outside.This was three yrs ago & no leaks

 

[upsnake]

I just used the expanding foam made for large cracks, filled it up and let it expand. (my whole is above ground though), (under the deck it pops up just above ground level then goes into the basement)

 

[THE PLUMMER]

Both roofing tar and hydro cement are 2 things that temporarily work. We repair patches from both on a weekly basis. You'll never find a "good" basement wall company use either. There are 2 part expanding epoxy found on amazon or a good building supply house company. 3m also makes the 2 part epoxy sealer DP 600 or newest version, you can inject it in and done for the next 30+ years. Since the supply and return line is flexible and moves with temp changes both hydraulic cement and tar will crack after they have cured. It might not happen right away but these are the bulk of failures that we repair. Another good product is called Eucolastic if you can find it, comes in a thick workable version and the other flows for 8-12 hours to fill in cracks completely, it penetrates 12" walls. They have excellent bond, flexibility, flows into the smallest crevice and are 100% waterproof. Great stuff used to have a true water proof expanding foam, but it is no longer on the market, the current ones are only water resistant, but I have seen customers use it with good results so far. I just haven't seen any repairs older than 5 years.

 

[hardy steve]

Didyou not run pex in a large diameter pipe?I ran all lines inside 4" PVC pipe. I made one hole in block wall just large enough for 4" pipe.Then hydro cement both sides no leaks.Going on 4 years very wet yard.

 

[WillyGies]

Also be interested in how everyone else does it.

 

[Blazin]

You should use Waterplug/Hydraulic Cement. It expands when it sets and makes everything tight. Then coat the outside of the foundation with roofing/foundation asphalt goo.

Yep...same here 6 years ago and no leaky!

 

[parrothead600]

Didyou not run pex in a large diameter pipe?I ran all lines inside 4" PVC pipe. I made one hole in block wall just large enough for 4" pipe.Then hydro cement both sides no leaks.Going on 4 years very wet yard.

The Thermo-Pex from Central Boiler consists of 2 1" pex lines surrounded by foam insulation inside of a plastic outer shell approx 5" in diameter. I made my hole large enough to allow the outer shell to pass thru.
Sounds like I screwed-up by using the roofing cement the first time. It's going to be a b**ch to get that stuff out of the rough surfce of the hole. I really don't want to chisel the hole bigger to remove the tar.
Question for The Plummer: Will any of the products that you listed bond/seal to roofing cement?

 

[sam-tip]

Good idea on the cement. I core drilled a 6" hole for my thermopex in Oct 2011. I just used expanding foam. Good so far. Drilled total of 7 holes in one weekend. Heating three buildings and going through and out one building.



View attachment 228013

 

[leadarrows]

I used this stuff 25 years ago on a pipe that comes thru my basement wall and it has held just fine. Quikrete® Hydraulic Water-Stop Cement (112611) - Patch & Repair Products - Ace Hardware

 

[hardy steve]

It will take time and mesy,but a putty knife and propane torch would remove it/

 

[Iska3]

If you have that tar on there real thick, try some ice around it so it will freez and chip off the thick stuff first.

 

[waterguy]

sikaflex

I install water lines on a daily basis through various foundations. Try using polyurathane caulk , it is highly recomended for any masonry foundation ( i.e. block, poured wall, precast wall ) I swear by a brand called Sikaflex , it is not cheap but then neither is a return call to repair a leak . You can expect to pay like $6.50 a tube for it. 4 years on my OWB lines through precast wall 5' below grade , 6 penetrations & not a drip of surface water.

 

[Gavman]

I build and renovate homes for a living and have done lots of holes through foundation walls for services over the years, in addition to the various sealers ect above the MOST important thing I always do is continue the excavation all the way down to the draintile and backfill the hole with 3/4 clear crush gravel or pea gravel.
That way whenever moisture builds up from rain ect it will not create up any kind of pressure at the hole, instead it simply flows unimpeded to the drains.
And whenever I do any kind of draintile work I will always backfill with gravel against the house, usually a layer only about 12" wide once above the pipes.
I have never had leaks yet in over 15 years