1/4" chain rocks!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Saw Dr.

Junk Collector
Joined
Oct 20, 2007
Messages
5,986
Reaction score
1,422
Location
Temple, GA
So I resurrected an 015 lastnight. It runs well, but the chain was crummy. Most likely the original 1/4" chisel Stihl chain that came on it. I have fooled with 1/4" before, but never really spent any time getting it just right. Well, I was quite impressed when I got done lastnight with just how well it cuts. The owner will be pleased as well. Awful big chips coming from that tiny chain.
 
I felt the exact same way when I got my Allis-Chalmers 75A up and running.
Really wonder why they went from the 1/4 to the 3/8thsLP.



Mike
 
One issue with the 1/4 pitch chain is the tiny drive links, which are very un-forgiving when run too loose, as too many chains are run too loose by too many users. Once the drive links get pounded down to a nub, the chains get thrown way too often. I personally like my double-trigger Super-2 with 1/4 pitch chain better at the burn pile than my 200T, since the handle is more ergonomic for one-handed use. The 1/4 pitch chain is tops for precision pruning. I would like to convert my pole saws from 3/8lp to 1/4 pitch.
 
Yes, they would work great on pole saws.

Guys that build log cabins prefer the chains for their nice smooth looking cut too.
 
I use 1/4" chain almost exclusively, but I'm not cutting firewood as most are doing, I'm using them for log work on a log home I'm building.

All of these are running 1/4" chain. If you can afford it, the most recent Stihl 1/4" (RMS) chain kicks @$$...Bailey's/Carlton (10SC) is the best value, IMO.

From left to right...Echo 3450 with a 12" Cannon dime tip, Husqvarna 350 with a 14" Cannon Toonie, Husqvarna 242xp with a 16" Cannon quarter tip.

attachment.php
 
A properly sharpened 1/4 inch chain will cut lightening fast.

Properly, that's the hard part......

I think that was the deal here. I have put an edge on 1/4" before, but I was always in a hurry. I bought a box of odd items off Ebay a while back, and there were a BUNCH of files and guides in there for 1/4" chain. When something with 1/4 on it came through, I'd just give it a few swipes with the file, and turn it loose. Lastnight I decided to set the grinder up and use a micrometer to measure the cutters, and a feeler gauge for the depth gauges. It took a while to get it right. I really don't care, as I find chain sharpening kind of theraputic (as long as it isn't those bent-over rakers.) Now I'm wondering if they make a 1/4 sprocket for my 023L.
 
I think the fate of the chain is pretty well sealed, it is a shame. I am sure they will not forge a new sprocket for the newer models, a shame...
 
Been wanting to try some quarter inch pitch chain on my 346. I bought some sprockets to fit my Husky and Domar 351.

The 346 is a great saw to run 1/4" pitch on, it has the power, yet is light enough to maneuver it around easily. As you can see above, I have a 242xp and a 350, both of which are of the same family. That is the preferred size saw to use, IMO, but all of our mileage will vary.

I think the fate of the chain is pretty well sealed, it is a shame. I am sure they will not forge a new sprocket for the newer models, a shame...

That is probably partially true, at least for the newer larger displacement saws. However, let's not forget that chainsaw carvers will continue to use 1/4" pitch chain and most likely new saws will come out to target those needs. Plenty of used saws that can use 1/4" pitch though and some of the more common ones have readily available drums/rims and/or sprockets. It won't die too quickly, IMO. :clap:
 
I think the fate of the chain is pretty well sealed, it is a shame. I am sure they will not forge a new sprocket for the newer models, a shame...

Some of the older 1/4" sprockets can be adapted to the newer saws, which is what I've been doing. I bought 100' of the old Stihl chisel-style 1/4" pitch and it is fantastic chain. I also bought 100' of the old Carlton semi-chisel which works well too.

The main issue behind 1/4" pitch apart from being fragile is that it's expensive to manufacture.
 
The main issue behind 1/4" pitch apart from being fragile is that it's expensive to manufacture.

I've heard people say that before, but I haven't experienced it. I will say that it does tend to go dull a bit faster as the thickness of the steel is less, but it's easy enough to sharpen, I do it by hand with a file. European files are best, I bought a box from Bailey's.

For log work I've noticed that one needs to watch how loose the chain is when saw is cutting in a non-vertical position. Some of the small tip bars, like the 12" dime tips need to be loose or they heat up quite a bit. To alleviate that problem I try to keep the chain just snug enough so that I can rotate the saw without having it spark on the bar. IOW, just tight enough so that the tangs are just barely in the bottom of the bar.

One needs to be selective on the saws they use as the drums are not available for all saws, nor the sprocket. Much of the Husqvarna line has drums available, as-is Echo, and some Stihls. Most of the later are too heavy for me, even the smallest Stihls are heavy. 242xp/242/246/345/346xp/350/351/353 family of saws are great for the work I do. Some carvers tend to use smaller saws (ms200 rear handle, 336, 339, Tanaka 3301, etc..). I have a 336, but the fuel lines need replacing. I like the 242xp and 350 much better power wise though. Echo 3450 is hard to beat for small, it is my goto saw when I need to climb 10 feet in the air wielding a chainsaw (Yes, I know this is NOT OSHA approved ;) ).
 
.325

My Husky 435 came stock with .325 NK, so its pitch is in between the .375 LP and the .250 pitch. One thing I've noticed, when cutting green wood, the chain binds because it won't clear the chips. I assume this is a narrow kerf issue and not pitch related. Anyone experience this?
 
I was wondering why the center saw had such a loose chain. Are the 12" dime tips solid?

For log work I've noticed that one needs to watch how loose the chain is when saw is cutting in a non-vertical position. Some of the small tip bars, like the 12" dime tips need to be loose or they heat up quite a bit. To alleviate that problem I try to keep the chain just snug enough so that I can rotate the saw without having it spark on the bar. IOW, just tight enough so that the tangs are just barely in the bottom of the bar.

242336d1340143769-working-saws-jpg
 
I was wondering why the center saw had such a loose chain. Are the 12" dime tips solid?

Yes, all of my 1/4" bars are solid, would love to get a roller bar, but haven't seen any. Have heard that Echo may have produced some ages ago, but I have not found one.

The middle bar is actually a toonie, it has a larger tip on it and is probably the best bar I have for log work and/or dovetails. That bar heats up less, but something that still needs to be concerned with. I leave it just so the tangs are in the bottom slot, not sure how it is set at the moment in that pic as I was using the 242xp prior to taking that pic.

The bar on the Echo is a dime tip. They are the smallest and do require the chain is actually hanging out of the slot on the bottom in order to keep from heating up. That's why I mentioned using the saw in a non-vertical position, I turn them sideways and various positions to cut correctly. Sometimes on the ground, sometimes 10 feet in the air, one needs to be flexible when working with large timbers. If the pieces were smaller one could just position them how they want, but with the sheer size and weight of the logs requires the position of the saw is flexible.

As for clearing chips, I've not had any problem with that. In the pic above I split the log with a 1/4" chain.
 
Welcome all!
I am a carpenter from Russia, and we have a choice of accessories for drinking rather modest. So I ask you to help me answer the question: will the tire 050 Gauge Cannon "Quarter" Tip "Carving bar" on the saw Husqvarna 560XP? And what a chain can be used?
I apologize in advance for my English, I write through the translator.
Eugene.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top