Good Stihl limbing saw???

[Stihlman441]

Ha there SawTroll,i notice you dont have many Stihls so which ones have the slow throttle response ?.

 

[oldmar]

026s are such crappy saws, what with their slow trigger response and all. Plus, you can only bounce them around in the bed of the truck for like 15-20 years before they need seals and a carb rebuild. They're such terrible saws that Stihl has only sold a few hundred of them, and most tree services and logging outfits only buy several.

 

[ZeroLife]

If you lookin' for a smaller limbing/brush saw, you might want to try a 40cc saw with 16" bar, or shorter.

Winter of 2010 I "graduated" to a 70cc+ saw which is quite a bit bigger than I had been using(I love it). With the increased weight of the saw I found myself grabbing my little 30cc brush saw much more than I used to.
The 30cc had become too small!:msp_scared:,,,,so I found myself in the market for something more. Now this aint "CAD" I'm talking about, honest injun', I really needed a bigger brush/limbing saw,,,and I really needed the 70cc saw as well!! It makes little ones outta big ones much more better than what I had been running.
Any who, I tried a buddy's little "disposable" saw,(the colors remind me of The Grateful Dead) in the 40cc range sporting a 16" bar and decided that it felt about rite.
I came home from the stealership with a 40cc powerhead and put a 12" b/c on it. Works perfect for me, for what I do.
My buddy thinks it looks kinda' funny with the 12" bar,,,"everybody's funny, he's funny too".

I'm with ya! Just picked up the 441 CM-Tronic a few months ago and couldn't be happier. Threw a damn 32" bar on it ASAP and it rips. It's also a GREAT all around saw, but the situation I'm in and will continue to be in may require a 32" bar and a 16" to 20" bar. I have a 34cc MAC that doesn't cut it any more even for limbing and an old 50cc MAC that's nearing retirement. A buddy and I have taken on a pretty big project(for us) and I need a saw that runs all day once or twice a week when I pull the rope. I'm thinking 40cc to 50cc would be ideal, but at the end of the day, there's only a 2 or 3 pound difference between those displacements and a 441. Maybe I'll call the neighbor and borrow his FarmBoss with a 16" for a half hour and make up my mind.

 

[ZeroLife]

About the slow trigger response on Stihl's....Can't imagine a saw having a quicker response than the 441CM-Tronic. Touch the trigger and it jumps. Anything faster would jump before you hit it!

 

[Stihlman441]

If you are going to use it a fair bit then a pro saw would be the go.Have a look at a 261 with an 18'' bar,i used one all day today felling and topping.:msp_thumbup:

 

[SawTroll]

Ha there SawTroll,i notice you dont have many Stihls so which ones have the slow throttle response ?.

Not my Euro MS361, but that one has quad transfers (the only non-strato Stihl that has). I believe the MS200 was an other exception, and the MS241 likely is another......

 

[Whitespider]

...the inboard clutch puts the bar further away (to the side) from the mass centre of the saw, disturbing the handling and precition during fast repeated cuts at different angles.
Sideways balance is more important than many want to believe, and specially for limbing!
In addition, many Stihl saws has slower trigger response…

That’s like a “one-size-fits-all” thing… and it never works out that way. Ya’ just can’t say, “an outboard (or inboard) clutch is better than the other…” because different situations and tasks change what works best. Kind’a narrow minded thinkin’, ain’t it? Limbing a nice straight Norway Pine is a lot different than limbing a crooked, twisted, gnarly old Bur Oak or Sugar Maple. Maybe if a fella’ makes his living with a saw all day, every day, that tiny bit of (perceived) handling advantage you get is notable… But for a guy cuttin’ firewood to feed his Family Room stove, maybe not so much.

The inboard clutch puts the bar closer to the clutch cover, which can be a real advantage when limbing nasty old twisted Bur Oaks and such… A fella’ can get the saw in close to the trunk when needed and still make a flush cut. Another advantage to the inboard clutch is the ease and speed of removing the power head from the bar in a tight pinch situation, even with the power head jammed up tight against the tree (yeah, I know, you “experts” don’t get your saw pinched… but us not-so-experts have it happen on occasion). I automatically remove the power head in a pinch situation before trying to free the bar & chain because I’ve seen what can happen if’n ya’ don’t (just spin two bar nuts off and the power head lifts away, quick and easy). Besides, Stihl places the clutch so it’s inset into the crankcase with only the sprocket protruding… wouldn’t that put the imparted centrifugal force from the clutch closer to the center mass? And closer to the side bearing? Hard for me to believe there’s as much handling advantage as you say, but maybe using it all day, every day…?? Actually it sounds like you’re just repeating some marketing hype… but what do I know? I just cut firewood for my home use. Although I owned a saw with an outboard clutch once, and I hated everything about it… from routine maintenance to swapping chains to even inspecting the sprocket. The chain broke one day and got all twisted up between the clutch and case, tore up the case, drum and sprocket stopping the saw like I hooked a fence and bent the crank… ain’t never gonna’ have another one.

Slower throttle response? Which models? Seriously, which Stihl models are you referring to?
I ain’t never used any of the newer “MS” series saws so I can’t speak to those… But I’ve owned and/or used many different “0xx” series saws, and when they’re properly tuned I just don’t see how instantaneous throttle response could possibly be any faster… well, unless you’ve stuck a 32-inch bar on an 021, it could be a might sluggish then.

 

[DFK]

An 024 Super with a 16" bar.
Stock, this saw will work as a limbing saw just fine.
With a few (very few) mods it will run like crazy.

David

 

[nstueve]

Surprised everyone advised on what to buy but nobody really answered his last question... "HOW ARE YOU SET UP?"

For a general day of wood cutting I'll usually grab 3 saws. 50cc or less for limbing 60-80cc's for general purpose, and 80+cc's for felling and bucking (if there is "big wood" to deal with). My personal setup is... Redmax 3800 (40cc) with 14in bar for limbing and clipping the little stuff. Makita 6401 with bb kit for cutting 10in-20in stuff... Makita 9010 or stihl 076 with 30-36in bar for felling and bucking 20+in stuff. Once I get my ms260pro done it will probably take the redmax's place.

Also surprised nobody asked if he was limbing in the tree or on the ground... makes a difference if we are to recommend a top handle or not... I'm a stihl guy b/c of local market not carrying pro husky... That being said the 024super, 026/260pro's, 261, or a 346xp husky with 14-16in bar is all you'll ever need for limbing since you have a bigger saw already. I've used 50cc saws for a complete day of cutting if the trees are small enough. If cutting "in a tree/off the ground" the stihl ms200t or echo 330t seem to be the popular choices for top handles...

The 346's that nmurph builds are to date the best limbing saw I have used (my buddy has 2 of them!). The only reason I don't own a 346xp is b/c I'm putting together the 260pro (when I get time). If you PM Neil (nmurph) he'll probably have a 346xp rebuilt and ready to sell... :msp_biggrin:

 

[Whitespider]

"HOW ARE YOU SET UP?"

Oh... sorry.
I've been running a single saw for something over 15 years now... a 026 purchased new in 1992, two bars, 16 & 20 inch.
(Yeah, I know, what am I doing posting in the chain saw forum?) - Maybe I was bored (shrug).
Wasn't long after purchasing that 026 I started selling all the other saws off (saws both larger and smaller) because I never seemed to use them any more... even when I'm cutting big oak it serves me just fine.

 

[jktbama12]

how big of limbs are we talkin?

just how big are the limbs you need to trim? I have a 261 that is pretty much an all around saw that I use for felling/bucking/trimming large limbs, but I also have a 180 that I use on anything less than 10". put a 14" bar on it 3/8 picco keep that chain sharp and she'll scream. not a bad deal at all for 200$. just depends on what you are limbing. also, when it is upwards of 90 degrees in the summer down here, you will notice the extra 3 lbs of the 261 has on the 180. especially if you wear all safety gear like me (Chaps, long sleeves, hard hat/face shield thing, long pants, and work boots). work safe, and stay hydrated.

 

[mdavlee]

Just run a 70cc saw for a few days without switching down to a smaller one and then a 261 will feel tiny. I've handled them a lot in the dealers but they all feel small to me.

 

[dodgeram]

I just recently got a 260. I figured, like you, that a 460 was too big to hang onto all day long, and a 170 was too small for the 6-10" stuff. The 260 fits the bill perfectly. Light weight and lots of power, and that's still with a green label chain on it.

 

[TraditionalTool]

I just recently got a 260. I figured, like you, that a 460 was too big to hang onto all day long, and a 170 was too small for the 6-10" stuff. The 260 fits the bill perfectly. Light weight and lots of power, and that's still with a green label chain on it.

Wow, you think the 260 is light weight? Every time I pick one up I can't believe how heavy they are.

Light would be an ms200, IMO.

EDIT: actually, my bad, the OP said "lighter", not "light". The 026/260 are certainly lighter than a 441...

I think it really does get down to personal choice...so the answer is go try some saws for yourself and see what you like. Kinda like asking what type of boots you should buy...well, we all have different feet, soooooooo.....The OP would do himself a dis-service by NOT looking at a 346xp...if he doesn't have too much stihl pride...my $0.02 but there's about a dollars worth of $0.02s in this thread...lol

It seems to be taken for granted that the OP wants another Stihl, especially from other Stihl aficionados...

 

[TraditionalTool]

Not really - actually, Zero Stihls are really suited for limbing - while the 346xp is perfect! :msp_biggrin:

Not to disagree with you 'Troll, but the ms200 is a great saw that actually is very well suited for limbing.

It also depends on how big the limbs are, on a 34" diameter pine I was cleaning up last week had some fairly large limbs on it, and one would want a larger saw than a ms200. I was using a 242xp and it just felt right. This explains why I would look at the 346xp I 'spose...lol

 

[homelitejim]

The 260 is a very nice saw for limning and small tree felling and is usually the smallest saw I will take with me. In certain instances I have taken a little Poulan micro 1.8 cubic inch top handle saw and it is way better for really brushy trees where you have to maneuver through the brush. On the big end I bring only saws above 70cc with my 441 as my light duty saw along with a 5 cubic inch Mac and a couple big Stihls most recently a 056 Mag II which is very impressive with a long bar and big wood. Inboard clutches are great for ease of removing the power head in a pinch situation, and my outboard clutch saws seem to have more power and bog down less but that could just be the saws. Throttle response on my 40 year old 056 Mag II is quick enough to where I do not need to pull the chain out of the cut when I stop to reposition myself, talk about myths.

 

[ZeroLife]

Surprised everyone advised on what to buy but nobody really answered his last question... "HOW ARE YOU SET UP?"

For a general day of wood cutting I'll usually grab 3 saws. 50cc or less for limbing 60-80cc's for general purpose, and 80+cc's for felling and bucking (if there is "big wood" to deal with). My personal setup is... Redmax 3800 (40cc) with 14in bar for limbing and clipping the little stuff. Makita 6401 with bb kit for cutting 10in-20in stuff... Makita 9010 or stihl 076 with 30-36in bar for felling and bucking 20+in stuff. Once I get my ms260pro done it will probably take the redmax's place.

Also surprised nobody asked if he was limbing in the tree or on the ground... makes a difference if we are to recommend a top handle or not... I'm a stihl guy b/c of local market not carrying pro husky... That being said the 024super, 026/260pro's, 261, or a 346xp husky with 14-16in bar is all you'll ever need for limbing since you have a bigger saw already. I've used 50cc saws for a complete day of cutting if the trees are small enough. If cutting "in a tree/off the ground" the stihl ms200t or echo 330t seem to be the popular choices for top handles...

The 346's that nmurph builds are to date the best limbing saw I have used (my buddy has 2 of them!). The only reason I don't own a 346xp is b/c I'm putting together the 260pro (when I get time). If you PM Neil (nmurph) he'll probably have a 346xp rebuilt and ready to sell... :msp_biggrin:

Thank you! I'm no pro. There will most likely not be any in tree cuts, danglin out of man lifts, or climbing ropes. I have a steady and profitable customer($200 for an even Ford Ranger load!) What I'll probably end up doing is getting 10 cord loads from guys like you, pulling down the occasional scrounge, and bartering blow down timber removal for services and whatever else pleases me.
I specified Stihl due to an ease of access. There are several within 20 miles of me. And cause I like em.
As far as diameter, anywhere between a few inches to 3' or 4'. There are no 7' cedars here, nor would I rumble with such a thing anyway. I'll leave that to you career boys with the big nuts:tongue2:

 

[Whitespider]

I specified Stihl due to an ease of access. There are several within 20 miles of me.

That there says more than everything else posted in this thread... parts and service availability is everything!

Probably the biggest reason I wouldn't consider a new Husqvarna saw purchase... there ain't a dealer within 100 miles of me (although ya' can buy 'em in the "Big Box Stores"). But I have two Stihl dealers less than 5 minutes of me, and probably ten within 30 minutes. The one closest to me is a full service dealer and has never failed to have what I need sitting right on the shelf... and that's for a 20-year-old saw, 19-year-old weed whip, an 18-year-old leaf blower, and all of dads "old" stuff (10-20 years old). The guy is real knowledgeable and has a memory like an elephant (or he keeps excellent records) 'cause I just walk in and say, "I need a sprocket for my saw, a throttle cable for my weed whip, air filters for my saw and leaf blower, and dad somehow smashed the muffler on his saw... oh, and do you have time to make me a couple chains for my short bar?" He never asks for model numbers or any such, but will ask if I'm wantin' RSC or RMC chain this time, and then plops the stuff on the counter... damn hard to beat good service.

Just my opinion, but you'll never see a Husqvarna dealership network in the U.S. like Stihl has in place... Not as long as Husqvarna keeps cuttin' their dealer's throats buy sellin' stuff in the "Big Box" and "Fleet" stores. Just look what happened to the gun dealers when the gun manufacturers started selling their stuff in those places, and then look what happened to the companies and their products... now they're just over-seas owned, mass-produced junk. Poulan chain saws were on-top-of-the-heap at one time in this country, until they stabbed their dealers in the back by marketing junk in the hardware stores and re-branding for Sears and such... now look where they are, even the once highly-regarded WeedEater is now a low-end product. I'm just using history as my guide, but Husqvarna won't make any real inroads (long term) on Stihl, and sales will fade over the next few years... which will cause overall quality to fade with it (at least the U.S. marketed products).

Here's how it will happen...
"Joe acreage owner" buys a Husky saw at the "Big Box" store so he can clean up some fallen limbs after a storm. Eleven months later there's another storm, but Joe can't get his saw to start. While he's trying to get it running he somehow messes up the air filter. Finally he gives up and takes it back to the "Big Box" store where he bought it (after all, it's still under the 12-month warranty). The "Big Box" store tells him he needs to take the saw to an "Authorized Husqvarna Service Center" for warranty work (or any service, and the closest one is 87 miles away) and they don't even have an air filter for it because that's last years model (the "Big Box" store only has air filters for the models they're currently selling). The problem is, Joe needs his saw running NOW! So Joe drives down the road to "LeRoy's Power Equipment Store" (who is likely a Stihl dealer), to see if LeRoy can help him out. LeRoy tells him he can probably fix it, but he doesn't have any parts and would have to order them from somewhere. Joe looks around LeRoy's store and sees all kinds of Stihl branded parts, pieces and accessories, an actual service shop and parts counter... Joe asks LeRoy if he'll trade. LeRoy says he will, but the non-running, "Big Box" store saw is only worth about $50 bucks to him. LeRoy shows Joe how to start and use his new saw, explains the importance of fresh fuel, walks him through routine maintenance and what wear parts to keep an eye on, shows him how to properly tension the chain, tells Joe how to store it, and tells him to bring it right back if there's any problems. Joe takes his new saw home and starts cleaning up the mess when the neighbor walks over (he has a mess in his yard also from the storm, but doesn't own a saw). "Hey Joe, I need to drive into town and buy a saw... where'd ya' get yours?"

"Well, I'll tell ya' what Sam, if I was you....."

 

[reynog]

B&C suggestion

for a limbing saw its hard to beat the 026 (if it HAS to be a stihl)...if ya want to try a GREAT limbing saw look no further than the husky 346xp:msp_biggrin:

What bar and chain combo do you use for limbing on the 346XP?

 

[SawTroll]

Not to disagree with you 'Troll, but the ms200 is a great saw that actually is very well suited for limbing.

It also depends on how big the limbs are, on a 34" diameter pine I was cleaning up last week had some fairly large limbs on it, and one would want a larger saw than a ms200. I was using a 242xp and it just felt right. This explains why I would look at the 346xp I 'spose...lol

The MS200 etc are just too small and weak for a real limbing saw, but are useful in some conditions.