Homelite Chainsaws

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You got a great deal man. yea the XLs and Super 2s have the chain oil and gas tanks right next to each other. Main rule is to never take both caps off at the same time...I am sure you can figure out why :laugh: Some of them have it engraved on the side of the case which one is which, but some don't.

A lot of these saws came out with a red and a black cap for good reason.
 
I re-scaned the whole section out of my Clymer repair manual. Right click is your friend.

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Lots easier to read now.

I have one of those that has a restrictor right behind the duckbill valve. It is a piece of metal tubing with a very small inner diameter to restrict the flow of air into the tank. I guess if you need more oil to the bar you can drill the restrictor out a little.
 
Might have a 14-16" bar for ya. Lemme look when I get home tonight, if I still have it and its any good, it's yours if you want it.

Just checked the basement, no luck there. I'll check the shed in the am, if I find one, I'll pm ya. I suspect I might have sent it along to the last poor foo...um happy Super 2 owner that was looking for parts for them. As far as I'm concerned, they're red MiniMacs.
 
It fit like it was made for it, one set of the adjuster holes is McCulloch sized, it oiled very well. I'll get photos as soon as I trade spikes with the Super 250.
 
It fit like it was made for it, one set of the adjuster holes is McCulloch sized, it oiled very well. I'll get photos as soon as I trade spikes with the Super 250.

There were bars that were made for both McCulloch and Homelite. Looks like you got one of 'em. Glad you kept that bar in the northern hemisphere. Swapping on the H&S spikes eh? I have BrocLuno's Homelite Super Wiz (as of yet unidentified as to exact model due to a missing ID plate and some 'custom' paint) here for a rehab. It has a large set of H&S spikes.

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The Randy 1050 is now a runner. Replaced fuel lines inside and out. Yahoo prior owner had used automotive vacuum line and it had swelled terribly. Filter had dropped off into the tank. Rebuilt carb.


P/C look fantastic through the port. Lots of compression, and will bite you if you don't pull like you mean it.

Overall, it's a nice, low time saw. .

Was motivational to read what you've done to this saw............as all the things in italics are what I need to do to my 1050 project saw and I feel it's a low usage saw also. Of course when it's 114 degrees outside the motivation to leave the A/C comfort to go out in the shop and work on saws is really low. It came with a almost brand new Homelite bar on it.
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When I read what you wrote about the compression biting you it compelled me to respond as I can SOOO relate. I've got a nice sized lifetime memory(scar) of my 1050's compression on my left knee where it bite me when I was first trying to see if it would start/run on a small amount of gas poured in the carb. You are soooo correct about pulling like you mean it!!! :msp_thumbup:
 
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Thanks. That's a nice score you got there. Your saw is a late production 1050 that would have come from Homelite with the SDC carb setup (and I can tell from the brass blockoff plugs on the carb box that it's set up that way now). Notice how your carb box doesn't have the grommet and hole for the third needle (idle adjust) like the saw I worked on has.

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Here you can see the hole and grommet for the third needle (which this saw had when it was Tillotson HL equipped). Somebody must have installed the SDC 'retrofit' kit on this saw.

Your saw also has the paint scheme and decals associated with a late 1050 (my buddy bought one just like yours new in 1986 or so). When you rebuild that carb, do yourself a favor and unbolt the carb manifold from the carb box so you can tilt the manifold/carb assembly up and easily reach the carb attchment screws. Otherwise, there's just no damn way to tighten the left side screw. An ignition wrench won't fit around it (because of the 'spitback' tube) and you can't get a straight shot with a screwdriver because of interfereance with the back of the carb box. When you remove the manifold you may have to replace the gasket that goes between it and the reed cage. That is a Tillotson HL carb flange gasket.

Looks like this:

38-1555 - Tillotson 16B-206 Hl Intake Gasket | Chain Saw Parts | MFG Supply

The OEM Homelite gasket looks like this:

HOMELITE CHAINSAW VINTAGE 1050 1130 INTAKE GASKET 63655 | eBay

Either will work. Most K10-SDC carb rebuild kits don't come with a carb mounting gasket. You'll either have to reuse your old one, make a new one, or buy one. This is what the Homelite gasket looks like:

HOMELITE NEW SUPER XL 925, SUPER XL 925W CARB GASKET | eBay

Any Tillotson HS or Walbro SDC carb mounting gasket will work, so long as the impulse hole is in the right place. Here's the Tillotson HS application gasket:

38-3656 - Tillotson 16B-228 HS Intake Gasket | Chain Saw Parts | MFG Supply
 
Thanks. That's a nice score you got there. Your saw is a late production 1050 that would have come from Homelite with the SDC carb setup (and I can tell from the brass blockoff plugs on the carb box that it's set up that way now). Notice how your carb box doesn't have the grommet and hole for the third needle (idle adjust) like the saw I worked on has.

photobucket-34449-1340611729718.jpg

Here you can see the hole and grommet for the third needle (which this saw had when it was Tillotson HL equipped). Somebody must have installed the SDC 'retrofit' kit on this saw.

Your saw also has the paint scheme and decals associated with a late 1050 (my buddy bought one just like yours new in 1986 or so). When you rebuild that carb, do yourself a favor and unbolt the carb manifold from the carb box so you can tilt the manifold/carb assembly up and easily reach the carb attchment screws. Otherwise, there's just no damn way to tighten the left side screw. An ignition wrench won't fit around it (because of the 'spitback' tube) and you can't get a straight shot with a screwdriver because of interfereance with the back of the carb box. When you remove the manifold you may have to replace the gasket that goes between it and the reed cage. That is a Tillotson HL carb flange gasket.

Looks like this:

38-1555 - Tillotson 16B-206 Hl Intake Gasket | Chain Saw Parts | MFG Supply

The OEM Homelite gasket looks like this:

HOMELITE CHAINSAW VINTAGE 1050 1130 INTAKE GASKET 63655 | eBay

Either will work. Most K10-SDC carb rebuild kits don't come with a carb mounting gasket. You'll either have to reuse your old one, make a new one, or buy one. This is what the Homelite gasket looks like:

HOMELITE NEW SUPER XL 925, SUPER XL 925W CARB GASKET | eBay

Any Tillotson HS or Walbro SDC carb mounting gasket will work, so long as the impulse hole is in the right place. Here's the Tillotson HS application gasket:

38-3656 - Tillotson 16B-228 HS Intake Gasket | Chain Saw Parts | MFG Supply

Thank-you VERY much for the info on what I've got ahead of me in doing the carb rebuild. I might have to buy up on that gasket in preparation of the job.

I'm wondering, after reading about the case/handle issue your saw was dealing with, what might have possessed someone to coat the inside of my fuel tank as seen in these pictures. At least I'm thinking this mess is some kind of coating vs. just long term fuel deterioration. I did, before posting this up, go out and double check the handle/case interface to make sure there was no damage such as what was on the saw you are dealing with.

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Thanks to rms61moparman's help I've got a new tank cover gasket but just haven't taken the time to get the cleaning, new fuel line/filter and carb rebuilt to get this saw up and going. I NEED to 'Git-R-Done' .........however the heat is limiting my enthusiasm to go work in the shop!! :bang:
 
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