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these one's eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d
don't take any notice of the pics the ones he got are spot .and i tested these and start up curent is 9.6 amps from cold
and when hot is 4.6 amps and after that about 6amp start up after a 45 second dip test .
And dallas it runs 16 amps of driving lights now so it will run the bigger ones the engine came out yesterday and
it aint go'en back untill the timing belt ,alternator (80a) , water pump, clutch and hose's have been done oops and thermostat on the replacement
 
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thanks guys, i will look into it for sure.

I've used plenty of the cheap Chinese kits with great success, but beware that some of the cheaper kits will interfere with radio reception that isn't 100% so I had to juggle between the cars and bike. I don't know if they have improved with the later kits (small ballast) as all mine have the ciggy packet sized (early) ballast.

Actually it was only last night the wife mentioned that one of hers in the old Beemer has dropped out. I've had this happen from time to time and it's only ever been a connection etc.
 
ive go hella hid's all round on my dozer, only lights ive used that can cut through dust without blocking out all your vision. well worth the price tag
 
Neil, I just picked up the cant hook/lever from my husky dealer today, made by fiskar's, always trying to borrow one at the races to roll the billets around getting them prepared. Taking it out bush tomorrow to abuse the crap out of it. There are two different sizes from husky, I got the shorter of the two to see how it goes, might get the longer one in the future if I need more leverage

will

My cant hook is the Stihl one that is made by Muller, Muller make a lot of good stuff arborists and the garden, check this company out Arborrakes |, they import the Muller stuff and lots of other things, it is run by a very nice lady from Melbourne, she had a stand at the Wimmera Field days back in march, worth a look.
 
My cant hook is the Stihl one that is made by Muller, Muller make a lot of good stuff arborists and the garden, check this company out Arborrakes |, they import the Muller stuff and lots of other things, it is run by a very nice lady from Melbourne, she had a stand at the Wimmera Field days back in march, worth a look.

Nice stuff, I like that style of forestry tools, old skool kool.

this is the fiskars I got
Breaking bar with cant hook - Forest tools

the only issue I had with it so far is the hook does grab well the way they have installed it (like in the pic) I swapped it to the other side and it grabs much easier now. The end fits nicely into the saw cuts in the post billet and makes it easy to roll the odd shaped billets around.

Will
 
these one's eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d
don't take any notice of the pics the ones he got are spot .and i tested these and start up curent is 9.6 amps from cold
and when hot is 4.6 amps and after that about 6amp start up after a 45 second dip test .
And dallas it runs 16 amps of driving lights now so it will run the bigger ones the engine came out yesterday and
it aint go'en back untill the timing belt ,alternator (80a) , water pump, clutch and hose's have been done oops and thermostat on the replacement

The problem isn't with the current that the vehicle's electrical system sees, it is the current load within the ballast itself.

Here is the email I received when asking about the 100W versions a few years ago...

Hi Matt, I can get 100W. They are a fair bit more $ (Around $300) and the problems they face are start ups. The start up current is so great they often dont both start (just 1 will). They each need their own wiring loom and relays with very heavy wires. And there is a failure rate of about 30% and we dont get backing from our suppliers on these and that's one reason why they are more expensive. Personally I would stick with the 55W.
 
Nice stuff, I like that style of forestry tools, old skool kool.

this is the fiskars I got
Breaking bar with cant hook - Forest tools

the only issue I had with it so far is the hook does grab well the way they have installed it (like in the pic) I swapped it to the other side and it grabs much easier now. The end fits nicely into the saw cuts in the post billet and makes it easy to roll the odd shaped billets around.

Will

yes top stuff Will, Stihl have that cant hook/Breaking bar too, most likley from Fiskars as well,
 
How's the Hill going Aaron?

Have the locals been able to run out those twit publicans at Silverton?

hill is still the same al, and no they aint been able to boot em out of silverton as yet! i aint been there for ages the place just dont have the same atmoshpere
 
The problem isn't with the current that the vehicle's electrical system sees, it is the current load within the ballast itself.

Here is the email I received when asking about the 100W versions a few years ago...

Hi Matt, I can get 100W. They are a fair bit more $ (Around $300) and the problems they face are start ups. The start up current is so great they often dont both start (just 1 will). They each need their own wiring loom and relays with very heavy wires. And there is a failure rate of about 30% and we dont get backing from our suppliers on these and that's one reason why they are more expensive. Personally I would stick with the 55W.

55 it is then
 
GETTING HARDER TO TELL A FAKE FROM GENUINE,oops bloody caps lock,spilt coffe on the keyboard the other day and its rooted ,only some keys work,using the onscreen keyboard:frown:
 
yes top stuff Will, Stihl have that cant hook/Breaking bar too, most likley from Fiskars as well,

Yup that's right, had one in my hands at the last race meeting, one of the blokes I race against works in a stihl shop and all he has is Stihl gear, same fiskars cant hook/breaker bar. A few of the guys have em and they all have abused them from time to time, one bloke jammed the end into a saw cut and then attached a chain to it so he can use the ute to roll the billet over, the fiskar took it with no worries.

will
 
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