2 cycle Oil - Synthetic or Not to Synthetic

[deye223]

:welcome:
for the oil thread

 

[WidowMaker1]

Same drive for me but the Husky/Honda/Toro/Shinny dealer also stock Motul for the bike crowd, so 710 and 800 2T are always on the shelf.

If you have a Castrol stockist, Power 1 Racing TTS should be available too, although it gives me a headache it's an excellent oil, or if a bike shop stocks Silkolene, I wouldn't hesitate to use Pro SX 2T.

Ok, ill have a look for them. yeah availability can sux at times in Country Australia, but i wouldn't live anywhere else ....ended up picking up some Penrite semi-synthetic ...looks okay?!

 

[tdi-rick]

It'll be fine.

Anything JASO FC or FD is OK, although I suspect it hasn't been submitted for testing

Penrite make some really good oils, I've been using one of their full syn HD diesel oils for the last few years on the recommendation of a pretty switched on oil analyst.

 

[WidowMaker1]

It'll be fine.

Anything JASO FC or FD is OK, although I suspect it hasn't been submitted for testing

Penrite make some really good oils, I've been using one of their full syn HD diesel oils for the last few years on the recommendation of a pretty switched on oil analyst.

yeah no worries mate, been using the penrite in the Windsor for a while now, keeps it like new 'super clean', no build up at all when i pull the heads

 

[Fish]

I tried that, but couldn't get a woman or dog even close, so I decided to risk the vampires...:msp_w00t:

Woman or dog eh???

You foreigners are too damn picky......

 

[Lakeside53]

You were of course my first choice, but I couldn't afford the Bus ticket get there.

 

[mikefunaro]

Pure? Are you sure? or did you mean "full synthetic"?

HF

What's up Arboristsite is now Bob is the oil guy??

I can change my statement to be extremely cautionary, something like "Stihl Ultra is advertised to be a synthetic product, rather than a synthetic blend. The definition of synthetic oil and the degree to which ultra complies with this definition is the subject of debate"

I really don't care one way or another, I use husky xp mix and I get it pretty cheap. I don't think this is worth fretting over.

I can see how there are other additives and so it's not pure in the sense that there is nothing else in there, but pure as in there's supposedly not dino oil in it, so yeah, "full" synthetic.

I dont care for the smell of stihl ultra anyhow

 

[Chris-PA]

I dont care for the smell of stihl ultra anyhow

It's awful - smells like burning plastic. I mixed some for the first time after reading one of these oil threads. I needed to make some mix and was at the hardware store already, and it was actually one of the cheaper options I had without driving somewhere else. The first time I used it I was checking the saw for something melting based on the stench. I finally figured out it was just the mix.

 

[user 64030]

Oil threads:msp_wub:

+1

Was about to say we need to add in ratio and fuel and octane but... well nevermind it got did already.

:msp_biggrin:

dw

 

[ZeroJunk]

Nobody twists anybody's arm to look at them.

 

[user 64030]

I wasn't complaining... it's always a good read watching the debates.

dw

 

[deye223]

+1

Was about to say we need to add in ratio and fuel and octane but... well nevermind it got did already.

:msp_biggrin:

dw

how about bullet weight in 270win 130 grain or 140 grain lol

 

[eat a peach]

me too ..........

I switched all over to synthetic, when i started seeing carbon build up, and mild scoring. Don't know why I ever ran conventional, because I learned early on with my dirt bikes synthetic was the ticket. I assumed conventional had much improved, and become similar to synthetic. I was wrong, for those who count the pennies, check the price of a oem p&C. But I guess for a pro faller, in the woods, and a six month to a year life in a saw, then maybe the added expense would not be necessary.

I use synthetic in all my stuff ,cars,trucks and ope . My small truck has had mobil one since new ,S-10 with 208 k and
no noticeable loss of power yet. I don't haul a lot of wood in it but it has been loaded down with a trailer full behind. Oh and it is a 4cyl.
My saws and weed trimmers use husky full syn . Knock on wood no carbon problems yet.

 

[ZeroJunk]

how about bullet weight in 270win 130 grain or 140 grain lol

Which grain does your rifle run better on.

 

[deye223]

Which grain does your rifle run better on.

when i had a 270 i liked the 140 because i used at the longer ranges

 

[paccity]

used motor oil at 8-1. doubles as bar oil.:msp_rolleyes:

 

[Chris-PA]

I use synthetic in all my stuff ,cars,trucks and ope . My small truck has had mobil one since new ,S-10 with 208 k and
no noticeable loss of power yet. I don't haul a lot of wood in it but it has been loaded down with a trailer full behind. Oh and it is a 4cyl.
My saws and weed trimmers use husky full syn . Knock on wood no carbon problems yet.

I've never used synthetic in any car, and presently I've got several in the 150,000mi range that run fantastic and don't use a drop. Previous engines I'd taken apart at high mileage always looked very clean inside. The best motor oil by far is ..... fresh oil, of any kind.

Some of these testimonials are like saying vampire repellent really works, because I use it and have never seen a vampire.

The issues involved with 4-stroke motor oil and 2-stroke oil have almost nothing to do with each other, except that they're both oil. The main issue with 2-stroke oil seems to be how clean it burns.

 

[user 64030]

how about bullet weight in 270win 130 grain or 140 grain lol

Well the longer the bullet, and the higher the BC the better you are, typically the heavier bullets are longer and have the higher BC. They resist wind drift, retain more energy down range, and slow down less from muzzle to target vs. a lighter bullet in the same caliber.

I like the heaviest and fastest I can get that fit my needsfor the terrain.

Oh wait this is a chansaw thread...

Well at 20 rounds per box, and $40/box and up for the good stuff, its an expensive way to cut a cord.

dw

 

[ZeroJunk]

Well the longer the bullet, and the higher the BC the better you are, typically the heavier bullets are longer and have the higher BC. They resist wind drift, retain more energy down range, and slow down less from muzzle to target vs. a lighter bullet in the same caliber.

I like the heaviest and fastest I can get that fit my needsfor the terrain.

Oh wait this is a chansaw thread...

Well at 20 rounds per box, and $40/box and up for the good stuff, its an expensive way to cut a cord.

dw

Oh boy, you think oil threads are bad. How about 30-06 vs 308 .:msp_scared:

 

[Chris-PA]

Oh boy, can of worms here What gas, where are you? Ethanol in your area? Why run 92 if you don't have too? KISS - if the saw runs good on lesser grade, the fuel is simpler and cleaner. 92 has additives to delay flame propagation (Anti-knock). Those additives can mess with your oil choice and so can ethanol.

So air cooled two strokes biggest problems is top ring heat. The rings build carbon and sludge in the lands and stick. Bingo, loss of compression. Enough that hard carbon and flame can scorch a ring land, then we are on the way to scoring and a trashed P&C. Once you start depositing aluminum on the bore, it's only a matter of time till you toss the P&C.

Synthetics are great at resisting heat. If it works with your gas, good. If not, well you'll find out. BUT, synthetics are bad at gap filling and have poor surface tension so they don't stay on bearings and such as well as Dino oil - it's called drain-off and it's a well documented phenomena.

To get oils that will withstand the heat, they must either be USA API TC rated, or Euro EG-D rated. I like Motul 710, but there are a LOT of good oils out there - even Valvoline makes an EG-D rated two stroke oil that works well and is much cheaper than Ultra. I blend the Motul 75%/25% with dino oil. Just a touch of dino will stay on the bearings if you store your saws for more than a few days before being run. The bigger fraction of synthetic will keep the rings free and wet in the lands so they can do their job and everyone's happy

Go to your big auto parts chains and look for 2T oils. If they are rated EG-D, they are in the same neighborhood as Ultra. If you can't find them around, stick with good saw brand oils.

How do I know this stuff, been building 2 strokes for over 40 years - dirt bikes & boats (race), saws, pumps, you name it. Never had an oil related failure except on running dino oil too lean and the motor too hot. Even synthetics run at 40:1 in my world. Oil is so much cheaper than a motor or down time when you need to be cuttin :bang:

Picked up some Pennzoil air cooled 2-stroke oil at the local auto parts store last evening - API TC rated. 8oz for less than $3. I was using the TSC air cooled oil, but that has no ratings marked (which is quite common on most bottles).