Log splitter build

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kyle1!

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I'm just in the part gathering and planning stage but I thought I would throw it out for those who would like to comment.

The layout. With such a heavy beam, 8ft length, I though I would put the oil tank on the back with framework to limit the heavy tongue weight. Motor is 16hp from a JD LT160 mower. I will mount the mower frame to the splitter to hold the gas tank/battery maybe even the seat for relaxing.
splitterlayout.jpg


I'm using an F100 truck axle and I planned to make a frame work out of 5in channel that has the bottom cut out to fit around the 3in axle tube. The beam will be a W10x88, 5/8 web and flange just a little over 10in square. Overkill for sure but it is what I found.
axleframework.jpg


Reservoir tank
tank.jpg

The return is where the T fitting is and a tube inside actually runs it to the left side tank bottom. The return/suction ports are on the same side but the configuration is seperated inside the tank. The 2 bottom right fittings are the suction lines and have suction strainers inside the tank. I thought I would join the 2 ports with a Wye then to the pump. This way if one clogs I still have oil going to the pump. Or I can plug one take out the strainer then run the suction line to the pump. The port on the very left will be plugged.
suctionreturn.jpg


22gpm Haldex pump
haldex.jpg

5x24x2 cylinder
524.jpg

4x30x2 that I bought prior
430.jpg

The old fashion hand crank came off my grain silo. I plan to use it with my log lift. It lifted the electric grain auger inside the silo with 3/8 cable so it is should work with larger rounds that weigh close to the auger.
crank.jpg


Visited the local scrap yard and it had 1in thick scrap pieces (1ftx1ft and other sizes)that came from steel plates. New planter pieces were cut out from the plates at specialized planter manufacturer Bauer Manufacturing. These pieces should supply what I need for a wedge/pusher and cylinder mount. I think that is it for now. Will pick up the beam this week since the 36hr Xmas blitz is over. See ya

Brian
 
Valves and log lift are on opposite sides from the beam. Ate you going to have to reach over the beam to operate?
 
Aren't they supposed to be on opposite sides? Or do I just need the valve in a more neutral site where it can be reached from both sides? People don't stand on their log lift when they are splitting do they?

Brian
 
Looks good I love the old farm stuff reminds me of growing up. I have cranked alot of rounds lifting silo unloaders up.
 
Get everything on the splitter and leave your axle floating to get the right tongue weight then mount it. Remember you will add 8 pounds per gallon of hyd oil also. CJ
 
I can't see too well in the pic, are the suction ports bushed down? I like to see the line for suction at least match the suction port of the pump. Do NOT use high pressure fittings for 90's and the like for the suction and return. Malable is best because of the greater port diameters. CJ
 
The suction ports are not bushed down. There are 2 2in with 1 1/4 port suction strainers inside that tank. I know that suction strainers are frowned upon but if I have 2 of them less likely they both fail causing pump damage. Or like I said earlier I could pull the strainers out, plug one of them, and then run 2in suction reduced to 1 1/4 at the pump. Thoughts?

Brian
 
Bump

I found some initiative to start with this build. I'm doing alot of the build with 5inch 3/16 channel that was scavanged by my dad and grandpa from a highway bridge teardown years ago. There is probably 120ft of it. I'm using a 1/2 ton ford axle. The channel has been cut to form a frame work over the hump. With the framework at 21 1/2in from the ground this will put the top of my beam at 31 1/2 and there is enough space on either side for the powerplant and the tank. I decided to not put the oil tank on the end of the beam and to place the wedge opposite the hitch. You won't believe how much I have gone back/forth on where to put things. Sold the 4x30x2 cylinder and moved up to a 5x24x2 cylinder.

Last night I finished stripping down the JD mower for the framework and the engine. The mower is an LT series 16hp and the frame/fenders are all one piece unlike the JD180 I have so I will need to grind the welds carefully. The plan is to cut out some of the frame and move the fenders up to the black panel that holds the throttle and key. This will allow a stock location for the gas tank, battery and a couple of cup holders. :clap:

Next in line is cylinder mount, pusher plate and wedges design. Back to being :confused: on how I should make them. From what I have read and seen on here don't scrimp on the metal. I will get some pics but not much to show at this point.

Brian
 
Aren't they supposed to be on opposite sides? Or do I just need the valve in a more neutral site where it can be reached from both sides? People don't stand on their log lift when they are splitting do they?

Brian
I tried to make mine useable from either side and DO NOT regret it. Situations change so it's great to have options! ;)

MVC-029S_3.JPG


I did mine this Spring and love it. makes it so much easier to the point it is just fun.

Here's the link to the build.

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/206143.htm

It may give you some ideas.
 
Is there is reason you are going with the hand crank for the lift over hydraulic? Dual spool valves and lighter duty cylinders are not that expensive, and depending on your age[we all have to own up sooner or later] might be a consideration. The other thing to think about is, putting the tank on the tongue, more weight to lift when moving or hitching to truck or tractor. You will like the truck axle for the height though, figure out how you want to stand while working, no bending, happier back. Good luck with your build, working with something you designed and built is a joy when it all works out!:msp_thumbup:
 
Hey FB, My splitter will be like yours when I'm done. The crank is just what I have sitting around plus I figured it would be easier to fabricate. I have the cable and mounting plate from the silo auger that was with the crank to. Maybe I will rethink that to once the time comes on going with valve/cylinder with the lift. I want to have as much working space as possible and have the ability to store wood on the splitter so it is waiting for me. Just hate going up and down picking up pieces of wood. 10 minutes splitting 2 mins gathering :msp_thumbup:The log lift will help in that regard but I want more space. With my almost 10ft beam I could put 2 log lifts on it. :alien2:
It will be balanced for sure I would not be able to pick it up otherwise.

Kevin, Your splitter build has to be the best build thread on FW H WBE. It is almost to complex for this simpleton to follow but it does have excellent hints that I will use if possible. The pump mount is one.

Must get pics..

Brian
 
Just take it one step at a time, that's what I did. Start with the known, meaning, your push block and cylinder mounts. Those have to be in one position so that will give you the base to start from. Add your other stuff from there trying to think of all of the problems with mounting it there. You'll be like me and find yourself daydreaming about different options.

It can be overwhelming if you think about too many things. Get your base and go from there.

You might consider a cordless remote winch in the future if you don't want the hydraulics. Bottom line it's your splitter and have fun!!
 
Another nice feature of the truck axle is balance. Centering as many of your components as possible make moving it around a little easier. By the time you get everything built and filled, its gonna be heavy no matter what. My tank started out smaller and the balance was good, but the need for more oil capacity made it necessary to build a bigger tank, more oil=more weight.The large table on the end did help with regaining balance. Like Kevin said, have fun with it, it is a labor of love and can be changed as your needs change, and your the one who's using it, fit your needs.
 
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To OP'
Kinda hard to say for sure, but based on the diagram, I think I woud mount the green rectangle, labeled motor and valve, cross ways behind the axle. Move the hydraulic valve on a stand above the end of the cylinder where is is operational from both side. Mount the hyd tank where you show the valve. Make your log lift so it can be switched side to side by pulling a couple pins. And I would definitely go hydraulic on the lift, a day of splitting is going to involve a lot of cranking with your hand winch.. jmo...


===
oh yea, be sure to mount you lift so that you have room to operated the valves from the same side that the lift is mounted on, saves alot of steps in a days time...
 
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pics

Just some pics of start of the build. 5x24 cyl, 16hp engine, oil tank with the different holes for return/suction and then the beam/axle. The beam is just up in the air with jack stand and homemade 5in channel supports. With the beam and axle with frame work it stands 31.5in tall so a good working height. This way we will build the top up then move the axle to give us a balanced splitter. The engine/mower frame and oil tank will ride on each side of the beam on the axle keeping them low. Frame and engine is from a hacked up LT160 mower. For the 10in beam we will box it in with 5in channel. The beam was in the ground for some time so the area for the splits is a little rough. A new piece of plate will be used to guide the pusher and cover up this rough/pitted area. Wedge will be 12in high/12in long and be made from a 4ft piece of bucket edge. Splits will come off the end and there will be a log lift. All for now. Brian
mowerframe.jpg

beamaxle1.jpg

beamaxle.jpg

5x24.jpg

oiltank.jpg

mowerengine.jpg
 
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