Fleebay 357xp.....

[LowVolt]

Well I am not out of the woods yet.

I greased up the spark plug and checked it again. The spark plug now is fine but my gauge was still dropping. Still got a leak. So I start spraying the windex on all possible causes and I started to hear the bubbling and fizzing. The leak now is coming from these "Updated" plastic to metal hose clamps and plastic pieces on the intake side of the cylinder. In the next two pics show its location.

My hypothesis is that this is where the plastic clamp that is under the metal clamp is molded to this whole plastic intake thingy. When you screw down the clamp it is not really constricting around this area. The metal clamp is just pulling the top plastic clamping prongs closer together and that is forcing the whole intake boot downwards. That may sound clear as mud but it is the best way I can describe it. Whereas the method that I mocked up before had a metal clamp in direct contact with the rubber intake boot.

When you would tighten the clamp, it constricted around the rubber intake boot and mashed it against the intake side of the cylinder. This way you completely eliminate the plastic in between the metal clamp and the rubber intake boot. By any means I am not trying to say my idea is better or whatever. You guys know your stuff. You have been there and done that with this saw. I am just simply trying to figure out a way to eliminate all these air leaks. :msp_thumbup:

 

[LowVolt]

Now that I think about it, where the leak is coming from would suggest that the boot and plastic are not sealing properly in the impulse hole on the cylinder. I am sorry but that has to be one of the worst ways to get an impulse line pulse from the cylinder to the carb. There are way to many connections/places that can develop a leak.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Try the 036 clamp again and report back.

 

[LowVolt]

Try the 036 clamp again and report back.

Well I got the 036 clamp but threw the other piece I dremeled away. :bang:

I am thinking some yamabond in this area might do the trick. It would then seal the gap between the rubber intake boot and the plastic thingy? Just throwin it out there...

 

[blsnelling]

Install the rubber boot onto the intake, making sure that it's seated in the impulse hole. Then, slide the plastic part over and into it.

 

[LowVolt]

Install the rubber boot onto the intake, making sure that it's seated in the impulse hole. Then, slide the plastic part over and into it.

Well I believe that is what I did. I had to do it a few times because it was not in far enough. That is why earlier I said you need to dry fit this stuff together before putting on the yamabond. If it is not fully seated, the cylinder will not go on because that plastic thingy hits part of the crankcase.

 

[acguy]

s/n

Also made this clutch removal tool out of some black iron pipe and some hardware.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but is your saw a 05 model according to the data plate pic?

 

[almondgt]

Now that I think about it, where the leak is coming from would suggest that the boot and plastic are not sealing properly in the impulse hole on the cylinder. I am sorry but that has to be one of the worst ways to get an impulse line pulse from the cylinder to the carb. There are way to many connections/places that can develop a leak.

Apply some 2 stroke oil on the nipple that goes into the cylinder so there is less friction between the two and so the rubber will seat easier.........I know when I used the standard spring clamp over that intake rubber it really created a tight seal but is a bit of an ordeal to get it to close.

 

[LowVolt]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but is your saw a 05 model according to the data plate pic?

Well if the first two numbers designate what year it was made then I guess your answer is yes it is a 2005 model. Why? What's up?

 

[acguy]

upgrade

I always thought the upgrade to the clamp occurred in 05 based on the IPL. ??

 

[LowVolt]

I always thought the upgrade to the clamp occurred in 05 based on the IPL. ??

I am sure you are correct buy my saw must have been missed.

Took the jug off again. Wow that stuff sticks good. Had to give it a good tug to get it loose from the case. I cleaned up all the dried up yamabond and I went to plan B. I squirted some yamabond where I showed in the picture, then I put it all back together. I just used a head gasket just in case there still was a leak and I had to pull it apart again. That yamabond was not fun to get off. I am going to let the yamabond that is on the intake boot sit over night and tomorrow I will pressure and vac test.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

There are recesses in the clutch that are marked clearly with "off", and an arrow to indicate the direction - just place a suitably sized flat screwdriver (or preferably a chisel) as "flatly" as possible in one of those recesses, and give it a snappy stroke with a hammer or similar - clutch comes off, no piston stop needed.

I'll be damned. I've heard of the method, but always thought it was just more creative redneckery in the absence of the right tool for the job. May have to give it a try the next time I'm faced with the situation.

So how do you tighten it, then? I'll guess a couple blips of the throttle with the chain brake engaged?

 

[nmurph]

The screw clamps are hit and miss for tightening the intake tightly enough to prevent an air leak. I use the correct spring clamp that works like a charm, though they are harder to install.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The screw clamps are hit and miss for tightening the intake tightly enough to prevent and air leak. I use the correct spring clamp that works like a charm, though they are harder to install.

I was referring to tightening the clutch in the absence of the proper tool if you were responding to the post above.

 

[nmurph]

I was referring to tightening the clutch in the absence of the proper tool if you were responding to the post above.

Nah, I was responding to LV's problem getting the clamp to seal. Those spring-loaded clamps will absolutely seal the intake. I use box-nosed pliers to get the clamp together.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Nah, I was responding to LV's problem getting the clamp to seal. Those spring-loaded clamps will absolutely seal the intake. I use box-nosed pliers to get the clamp together.

That's what I used on mine. Still a pita, though.

 

[LowVolt]

Well I got to press and vac test the saw. Again here are the results. I guess they are a lot better but not sure if it is perfect. Keep in mind I have not taken the flywheel off yet. I probably need to do that, I just have not got outside to mock up a little flywheel puller.

On pressure, I pumped it up to 8 psi. It took 9 minutes and 30 seconds to go from 8 to 5 psi. Before it was like 50 sec.

And on vac it was similar. 8 to 5 psi in 14 min 50 seconds. It was still slowly falling in both situations but the lower the psi got the slower it lost the pressure or vac.

And again,

 

[nmurph]

Here are the specs from the SM-

Pump up the pressure to 80 kPa (0.8 bar).
• Wait 30 seconds.
• The pressure should not be less than 60 kPa
(0.6 bar).

Your saw sounds fine.

 

[blsnelling]

I think so too. Run it and make sure it holds a tune well, and does not go lean in an extended cut.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Put a bar and chain on that rascal and go cut some wood.